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Old 04-30-2014, 04:05 PM   #1
brewmaster_bates
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Default Danby DAR044A1BDD kegerator build

Has anyone converted this exact model into a tower kegerator? I'm planning on drilling my tower hole in the center of the roof towards the back, between the light and the back wall. Just need to make sure there aren't any coolant lines in that area.


I can't find any confirmation online and Danby's customer service team keeps giving me vague responses. If anyone's done this successfully, your advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!

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Old 04-30-2014, 04:46 PM   #2
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Drill away there are no coolant lines there


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Old 04-30-2014, 05:25 PM   #3
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Good to know! Thanks for the reply.

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Old 04-30-2014, 07:38 PM   #4
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I'm at the stage where its time to drill a hole for the tower tap on this exact fridge.

I asked Danby to provide layout drawing of the coolant tubing and their response was along the lines of, "if you damage the coolant tubes, you void the warranty". They never would tell me exactly where the lines are in the top of the fridge.

Bowman - Thanks for the info.

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Old 04-30-2014, 07:51 PM   #5
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I asked the same question on Amazon and reddit and got a few more responses. The consensus is that it's safe to drill in the back center between the light fixture and the back wall. I'm still going to doublecheck before I drill all the way through the insulation, but sounds like it shouldn't be a problem with this model.

As far as I know, the coolant lines in the roof are closer to the door.

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Old 04-30-2014, 09:00 PM   #6
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Agreed.

Plan on cutting the hole tonight after work. Will try and post the outcome after.

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Old 04-30-2014, 09:11 PM   #7
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Thanks. Either way, try to let me know if you run into any problems. What are you using to drill and how big of a hole do you plan to make?

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Old 05-01-2014, 03:20 AM   #8
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Just finished and got my first keg in the kegerator and on CO2!

Did not run into a single issue drilling a hole for the tower. No lines or wires were found in the center of the top panel between the light fixture and back edge (just move the wire for the light out of the way when you drill). I used a 2.5" metal/PVC/wood hole saw and drilled from the INSIDE.

I would recommend going with a 2" hole saw. The 4 bolt holes for the anchor bolts were a little close to the 2.5" hole I drilled.

Take your time and use a utility blade to feel around in the styrofoam for tubes and wires before you drill all the way through and you should have no issues.

Fridge will easily hold two ball lock corny's and a 5LB CO2. Now it's time to clean up that door!

Good luck, post back here if you have any questions.imageuploadedbyhome-brew1398914307.686042.jpgimageuploadedbyhome-brew1398914332.392281.jpgimageuploadedbyhome-brew1398914345.511669.jpg



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Old 05-01-2014, 02:42 PM   #9
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Looks good! Glad it was a success. I'm probably drilling mine on Saturday and going with a 2" hole like you mentioned.

As for your door modification, I'd recommend getting some waterproof aluminum tape and putting it over the exposed insulation, if you haven't already. Same with the hole in the top. Otherwise, the insulation will soak up moisture over time and could develop mold.

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Old 05-01-2014, 02:51 PM   #10
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Good call. Will be sealing the exposed foam today, probably with some kind of silicon-based sealant.


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