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Old 01-27-2011, 05:14 PM   #11
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I made my collar at 45's with a miter saw. I'm no workworker, and it never ceases to amaze me how easy it can be to mess up a simple 45 degree cut. Like how can I cut two 45 degree angles, but they don't line up perfectly?? I totally respect those who know what they're doing with wood.

At any rate, mine turned out just fine. I rounded off the outside edges with a sander to fit the rounded lip of the freezer. I'm really happy with the result...but often wonder if a simple but joint would have saved a lot of trouble for someone like me who is not skilled in woodworking.









Oh yeah, if you don't want use screws and will rely on wood glue or liquid nails to hold the joints, I found a belt clamp with ratchet really handy to keep everything in place while drying.

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Old 01-27-2011, 05:25 PM   #12
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If your miter saw can handle an 8" plank, than that is the way to go. I know some smaller models can only do up to 6". If this is the case you would get a cleaner cut with the circular. Which ever one you choose, do like jester said, verify the angles on some scrap. If you are worried about you circular saw cuts being straight, over shoot your line by a 1/16" and sand to perfect.

I don't recommend the table saw as any height variation in the end opposite the blade will effect you angle.
Or use a speed square to guide the boot of your cirular saw. But really, on a 1x8, the best thing to do is to find someone with a miter saw that will work (I'm not sure if a 12" can do it or not, but I'd start looking for a friend with a slider)
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Old 01-27-2011, 05:32 PM   #13
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buy some cheap MDF to practice, figure out what you need to do to get it right, then cut your expensive wood.

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Old 01-27-2011, 05:41 PM   #14
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Miter cut looks 10 times better than a butt joint, but thats just my opinion

-=Jason=-

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Old 01-28-2011, 01:41 AM   #15
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From your list, in order of what I'd use:

Miter saw, if it will cut 1x8 in one cut.
Circ saw with a new blade, and a square/guide clamped to the oak.
Table saw set at 45* with a long crosscut guide.

Get some cheap MDF and make sure your cuts are exact enough for you. Then go for the oak.

B

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Old 01-28-2011, 02:38 AM   #16
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Like Catt22, I would also suggest verifying the angle - the gauges on tools are not particularly accurate, and stops are not a guarantee. Set the blade where you think 45 is, cut a test piece into two pieces. Flip one of the two pieces to make a 90 joint, and check with a square.
Couldn't agree more. Used a brand new Dewalt miter saw for mine and set it at 45. Two 45s did not make a 90. Had to adjust til I got it perfect (and to be honest, it still wasn't). I would definitely suggest setting it up with some cheaper wood.
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Old 01-28-2011, 02:42 AM   #17
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When using a circular saw the good cut will be on the bottom of the board and the cut on the top of the board will tend to splinter as the teeth of the blade are coming out of the wood. This can be prevented by placing a quality masking tape on the wood centered over your cutting line.

Always adjust the blade depth to the thickness of the material plus 1/4" or so. Setting the blade depth any deeper usually makes it more difficult for the blade guard to function properly, affecting the quality of your cut.

As far as mitre cuts go, I've always found I made better cuts when I took the blade guard out of play (raised it up and held it up with my left thumb). The blade guard just seems to add torque to straight line effort until the guard is on top of the wood - the greater the angle, the greater the torque.

Now, draw you a line on that board and split it right down the middle! Always do a test cut first.

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Old 01-28-2011, 03:12 AM   #18
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Cutting accurate miters is harder than it seems, and the longer the joint the more difficult.

Make sure the boards you are trying to join are perfectly flat. Any cupping or twisting will be amplified by the joint. If you're buying the wood from a big box store, sight down the length and choose the most flat pieces. If you're buying from a real wood shop, have them joint the faces for you.

It's usually easier and more accurate to stand the boards up against the fence and set the miter to an angle than laying the board flat and using a bevel angle. As mentioned, care needs to be taken to ensure that the angle is set accurately. Don't trust the factory stops or the numbers on the dial, instead use a speed square or angle finder.

Accurate cuts are only half the battle. Use whatever clamps, jigs, etc. you can to hold things in place, and make minor adjustments until everything lines up well. Masking tape works well to hold things in place while still allowing for adjustments. A little patience will go a long way when it comes to assembly.

Some cheap scraps are good for practicing both the cutting and the assembly. Practice until you feel confident that you can get an acceptable result, and then go for it. Good luck!

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Old 01-28-2011, 03:13 AM   #19
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For a joint like that I usually work to find a design that doesn't require a miter at all. I don't like the way a miter can open up later and it isn't particularly strong.

I would probably have made that by cutting a rabbet groove in each end of the back side of the face piece. The sides would fit into those grooves.

At the back end of each side piece I would rabbet another groove for the back piece to set into.

This is how many kitchen cabinets are put together. Pull a drawer out of a cabinet and you will often find the box of the drawer is put together the way I described above.

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Old 01-28-2011, 05:07 AM   #20
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Layer or stack 1/2" to 3/4" light and dark woods, maple with black walnut plus joined with dovetailed ends woukl show as strong contrasting ends dovetailed ends plus strength.
I haven't seen a miter saw yet manufactured be it compounds or slides that didn't require time spent with a tuneup and squaring made accurate before use. If your planning on 45 degree mitered joints I would add biscuts for added strength.
The wife happened to run across one craigslist item of intrest for me as she has my tool want list.
Look for older DeWalt's the heavy cast iron framed radial saws they are rather accurate after tightening up plus cheap, I paid $35 for a 12" one, too heavy for PO plus needed a new cord.

Model 1000, http://www.skylinepictures.com/New_F..._nfe7_full.htm
was my great freebie find.
It is fully loaded with the optional 48" long arms and stops plus a new carbide blade. A great find vs $3,400 they go for loaded this from a mega buck art studio that ordered three new tax writeoff saws. I was first to call and pick it up have truck will travel 6 miles away.
Granted a one purpose tool for dead nuts perfect 22.5 and 45 degree miter cuts but oh what a dream to use including house baseboards.

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