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Old 09-23-2010, 01:35 AM   #51
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I have been working on a False Bottom from sheetmetal, I came up with a simple jig to allow the holes to be aligned and a design pattern to be left behind. I will do a writeup on it in the next few days. It should work on this application, only problem would be that a keg top isn't exactly flat. Anyway this was a great idea maybe the jig would help.

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Old 09-23-2010, 12:00 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by klyph View Post
I don't understand how you can lose a half gallon and still get 92% efficiency. Isn't dead space factored into efficiency?

This is a MLT false bottom. Assuming fly sparging, you could leave a ton of water in the MLT system, as long as you stop collecting runnings before the mash pH gets out of the range and tannins start releasing. This shouldnt have an effect on efficiency.
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Old 09-23-2010, 05:43 PM   #53
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Awesome idea! I am in the process of switching to all grain, and have started collecting materials (slowly, as to not anger SWMBO) to build a BRUTUS like stand... Do you think it would it work as effectively if you sunk the cutting disk in further, to make longer slits????

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Old 09-24-2010, 10:49 PM   #54
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i think that a bunch of small slits is the way to go. i noticed that a few grains husks made their way through at the beginning, but after the grain bed was set, it was great. the flow is so good through the pattern that I used, that a flow rate, was not an issue.

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Old 09-25-2010, 08:34 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by benbradford View Post

I trimmed teh old sanke coupler fitting off of the top of the keg top, and grinded it down smooth, so that I am left with essentially a concave disc, that is twelve inches around.
So why cut off the coupler fitting? Why couldn't you just keep it on and put your plug in there? Or would your dip tube have an upward direction on it?
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Old 09-26-2010, 03:19 AM   #56
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I guess it depends on the height of your bulkhead fitting. Mine didn't fit unless it was cut down, and i thought that it looked cleaner.

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Old 10-17-2010, 03:04 AM   #57
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I made a false bottom today based on your idea. I left the coupler on and used the top piece of the shank as well. I brazed a 1-1/4" to 3/4" copper reducer onto it, then plumbed it to the drain. The most time consuming part was drilling the holes, 500-600 I estimate. A couple solid hours with a drill press anyway.

I ended up with this. It fits a 10 gallon cooler very well.



Below are all of the pieces that make up the keg coupler (except the copper reducer). I used the 3 pieces shown on the left in this pic.



I set the keg coupler on top of the copper reducer and brazed them together, then sweated the rest of the copper tubing to the drain. With nothing added to the bottom of the copper reducer, it came out about 1/4" from the bottom of the cooler. Close enough for me.












I'm planning to do my first 10 gallon batch next weekend, so I'll see how it works then. It has a tight fit to the bottom, and can't be raised/moved by stirring, so I have high hopes for it.

and thanks for the great idea!

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Old 10-17-2010, 12:51 PM   #58
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awesome job man. that looks great. let us all know how it ends up working out. have you done some dry runs with water yet?

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Old 12-21-2010, 04:28 PM   #59
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Just thought I would update. I have done about 6 12 gallon batches since I made mine. I have had no stuck sparges or failures of any kind. Works great.

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Old 02-24-2011, 10:29 PM   #60
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used two that I have made so far, and without rice hulls, and doing a recirculating mash, I had two stuck sparges... Rice huls solved the problem just fine, and did a 12 gallon batch and a high grain bill trippel batch, without a problem at all!

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