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Old 08-27-2010, 05:06 PM   #21
klyph
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I don't understand how you can lose a half gallon and still get 92% efficiency. Isn't dead space factored into efficiency?



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Old 08-27-2010, 05:50 PM   #22
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I can adjust my equpment in beersmith to factor in loss to boil kettle and chiller. My efficiency into boil kettle might have been a little low, I topped up a little water into boil kettle. The gravitiy reading, into the boil kettle was pretty high however.

When I mentioned the half gallon, that is what I believe that will be the future loss, when the dip tube is pushed down pretty wellm and close to the bottom. I have always had some kind of loss in the mash tun, but as long as I get the correct amount or close into the boil kettle, I am happy. I have even stopped squeezing grain, or trying to get more out of the mash tun, as long as what is going into the boil kettle is the correct amount. Hopefully it is a better product going into the boil kettle, especially if some of the questionable mash is left behind.



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Old 08-27-2010, 06:20 PM   #23
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Thanks for the great idea...I knew I was saving those for something.

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Old 09-19-2010, 03:12 PM   #24
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Well, I did this DIY but a bit "over board" one may say...

I cut the coupling end of the top of the sanke off with the spare cut off wheels I had from making the keggle top. I then took it with me to my LHBS and fitted a #10 drilled bung. It was the off white rubbery kind. I asked the owner if he new off hand, what these things could handle as far as temps and he said,"I know a guy, that knows a guy, that uses one of those in the top of a water distiller. I also know that it gets to 178 degrees F." He then added, "He has been using those for years now this way. I just would not expose them to direct flame." I also had to use a 15/32" drill bit on the #10 stopper so that my 1/2" dip tube would go into it.

Then I ran to Harbor freight. I grabbed up a pack of the 1/8" nitrate coated drill bits and headed home. I got about 1/20th of the way through hand drilling a few hundred holes in this thing when all of these bits either smoked or snapped...
Ran back to HF and saw a pack of the 1/8" double ended short drill bits for $4.99. (It is like 2x as many for a buck more.) Grabbed them and another pack of the normal 1/8" "just in case". Headed back and opened up the double ended bits first. WHAT A DIFFERENCE THOSE ARE!!!!! I used a total of 4 bits to finish the job! (BTW I was not using any oil or water just "pulsing" the hand drill and applying a decent pressure.)
I made a + pattern then an X pattern with holes then split was left and filled in the larger areas that needed a hole. I did not center-punch all these and it shows...

Grabbed the trusty 4-1/2" angle grinder and loaded in 3 different "flapper/sander disks" that came in a variety pack at HF. (They had a couple grinder type and 4 cutoffs in the pack for $10.) They went fast but got all the burrs off the top and bottom. Once I found the "sweet spot" for the stopper on the 1/2" dip tube there is plenty of down pressure so I will never have to worry about stuff "sneaking under it" or it "coming up".

So, total time was 4-5 hours drilling and deburring (this could have been faster but my wrists tell a very different story...) and less than $20 in parts.

Here is were I add the obligatory use safety goggles, gloves and hearing protection when doing this...

Enjoy the pics!









I did get to test this and it works great! As you can see I use the weldless keggle fittings from barginfittings.com. I just hand tighten the nut down onto the fitting, this makes for easy removal.

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Old 09-19-2010, 03:55 PM   #25
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Let's see now:

Estimated $20 for parts & 4-5 hours even at a minimum wage would be roughly another $32 or so for a combined approximate total of $52.

While I admire the effort and your craftsmanship, I really don't understand why you would not simply buy a manufactured FB similar to this one for only $39 plus shipping:

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/11-sanke-stainless-steel-false-bottom.html

I like building stuff myself, but sometimes it just seems to make more sense to simply buy it off the shelf.

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Old 09-19-2010, 07:58 PM   #26
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That looks awesome, good work. I'll bet you'll get more satisfaction from using that, now that you spent the time and effort to DIY.

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Old 09-19-2010, 08:29 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Catt22 View Post
Let's see now:

4-5 hours even at a minimum wage ...

.....I really don't understand why you would not simply buy...

I can explain it for my household:
1. satisfaction
2. limited budget
3. I dont get paid for time around the house.

So for myself, and many others here I believe, this project is a great example of the balance achieved by increased satisfaction and reduced capitol expenditure.

Kind of like brewing your own beer...

Then again, you would likely laugh at my shop, brew rig, garden and truck.

But come drink my beer and you will only increase my satisfaction in the joy of process.

And kudos to this project. Now I know why I have the top I just cut off. Took it to work to throw in with the metal scrap and could NOT do it. I dont need a false bottom right now, but I am sure I will. Eventually.

Great work!
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:29 PM   #28
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I agree with a potential loss of time and effort, if this is taken too far. I really like the build and the stainless parts that went with zamial's build.

My false bottom, however, came from the realization that my new mash tun, was going to be ready, and I had not remembered to buy a stainless braid.

I had several tops around, and compression fitting and stopper in my cabinet, and an angle grinder that was screaming to be used. The grinder approuch takes maybe 10 minutes to cut slots. Mine was ready in a total of maybe a half hour, and the 12 inches of copper pipe, fitting and grinder cost about $7

This really isn't meant to replace a store bought false bottom, but does cost about the same as the copper pipe setups, or the stainless braid setups, and imitates the efficiency of a false bottom.

BTW, a couple of brews later, and this thing drains perfectly, no stuck sparges, even without rice hulls. I flows as fast as the hlt drains, as if there was no grain bed restrictions at all

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Old 09-19-2010, 08:35 PM   #29
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It is really lame to come onto a DIY forum and rip on people for wasting time on DIY.

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Old 09-19-2010, 09:02 PM   #30
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That is one purdy FB... I have two Sanke lids just sitting here... I was wondering if I should make a FB or a sparge arm / lid for my MLT...



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