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Old 08-13-2009, 12:19 PM   #51
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JK, any advice on how you grounded your heating element?

I finally sorted through the BOM for the Pump/CFC and you may be missing a 3/8 nipple for the 3/8 valve wort out to kettle connection if I put my diagram together right. I could be wrong though...
I ran the ground wire back out the rear of the PVC cap before sealing it up with epoxy and then wedged the wire between the element and its rubber sealing gasket. Kludgy, but it works and hasn't come loose yet.

Sorry I forgot about your PM. Yeah, it looks like I put 2 male 3/8 barb in the BOM instead of one female (inside) and one male (on the 3/8 ball valve output). I'll fix that.
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:38 PM   #52
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Any chance of a detailed diagram of the junction box for the electronically challenged? How do you ground all the circuits in there?

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Old 08-25-2009, 04:22 AM   #53
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Ditto on the request for a wiring diagram, or a quick narrative. I have just about all of the components and am about to wire it up!

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Old 08-25-2009, 05:26 PM   #54
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Uber-ghetto wiring diagram:

(sorry, lost this pic)

In a nutshell, simply wire the green (ground) and white (neutral) wires to each outlet as the instructions state. Every AC outlet I've ever used is color-coded with green, black, and white (or un-colored) screws, so it really is easy.

Wiring the hot (black) wire will vary depending on the AC switches you use. Again, read the directions. For mine, a single-pole switch was integrated in with the outlet and the instructions said to break off a little metal tab on the side and use a short piece of wire to jumper the switch "out" to the black outlet screw. This makes the switch open/close the hot side of the circuit to the outlet.

For the kettle switch, I wired it the same except for passing this jumper through the SSR. So, the black switch "out" goes to one AC side of the SSR, and the other SSR terminal connects back to the black screw on the outlet. This way, the switch has ultimate authority on passing current to the kettle. If the switch is ON, then the SSR / PID decides on the flow of current.

Power for the PID is AC so polarity doesn't matter. Just piggyback onto any switch/outlet screws that have a direct path back to the AC appliance cord. Heavy gauge wire is not necessary here. Even though the wires carry 120V, the PID only uses a few milliamperes of current.

The SSR control connections are DC so polarity DOES matter. Just follow the directions that came with your PID. Again, heavy gauge wire is not needed.

The thermocouple connections also have polarity. If you got your TC from Auber, most likely, the red lead is POSITIVE.

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Old 08-27-2009, 05:16 PM   #55
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I really like this setup as it is the perfect size. However, I would like to upscale this to do at least 5 gallon batches. My lack of electric know-how is an obvious handicap here.

What changes would need to be made to the control panel parts for a 240v power source?

I think i'll use a 5500W RIPP heating element.

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Old 08-27-2009, 07:45 PM   #56
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What changes would need to be made to the control panel parts for a 240v power source?

I think i'll use a 5500W RIPP heating element.
Well, remember the pump is still 120V. If you ran a 4-wire dryer cord, you could drive the pump off one hot and neutral (120V) and the kettle side off both hots (240V). As long as the SSR, switches and outlets are all rated for 240V 30A you'd be fine. Note you'll still want GFCI in there somewhere for safety sake; back at the circuit breaker, ideally.

Definitely have a talk with Pol. He's much more versed in 240V brewing than I am.
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:46 PM   #57
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Would this be an easy way to scale the design up to 5 gal batches?

Two 120v elements
One SSR, for each element (drawing power from 2 seperate household circuts)
One PID controlling both SSR's

From what I understand a PID like yours puts out enough current to control two SSR's, however would the PID still function correctly. I'm assuming since there's no feedback to the PID other than the thermocouple it would just think its controlling one element?

Edit: I'm trying to avoid a 240v outlet for portability

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Old 08-28-2009, 12:27 AM   #58
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Would this be an easy way to scale the design up to 5 gal batches?

Two 120v elements
One SSR, for each element (drawing power from 2 seperate household circuts)
One PID controlling both SSR's

From what I understand a PID like yours puts out enough current to control two SSR's, however would the PID still function correctly. I'm assuming since there's no feedback to the PID other than the thermocouple it would just think its controlling one element?

Edit: I'm trying to avoid a 240v outlet for portability
Should work just fine. The SYL-2362 PID can source 40mA on the SSR output pins and the 40A SSRs only sink 12mA each.
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Old 08-28-2009, 05:09 AM   #59
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I am building this system with two 120v 2000kw elements right now. I plan to only use the second heating element (not connected to the PID) to get up to a rolling boil and then unplug it. From my research, the other 120v 2000kw (which is hooked up to the PID) will keep a good boil going for about a 6.5 gal boil. You really only need the one 120v 2000kw element (connected to the PID) during the mash and recirculation. I don't have 240v service anywhere in my house, so I didn't have a choice and I think this is the easiest way to put this system together.

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Old 08-29-2009, 12:16 PM   #60
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2 pot system, eh? I like it! It's got me thinking. If you were worried about efficency just toss an extra gallon in the mix and boil a bit longer. *Shrug* What kind of efficency could I expect to get from just running my boil kettle and mash tun in a similar fashion. Can you count on 70% efficency if you mash with your full boil volume? What about bigger beers? Can you still get 70% efficency on a 8% beer? This just seems like a hell of alot less thinking to me. Looks like there are 3 schools of thought on sparge. Fly, batch and just mash with full boil volume. One less tun, one less pump and no sparging. Just drain to the boil kettle. Seems a bit win/win to me!

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