Ss Brewing Technologies Giveaway!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Countertop Brutus 20
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 07-01-2011, 04:23 PM   #501
everfrost
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 37
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkarp View Post
More recently I've reconfigured my kettle valve with a "T" so I could get the PID temp reading direct from the flow.
So do you screw the RTD into the T now instead of the sightglass, or am I misunderstanding something?
__________________

Primary: Air, Air

Secondary: EdWort's Apfelwein, Dragons Milk October Ale, Air, Air

Bottled: Rum Cake Ale, Odin's Dragöl, Vagabond Gingered Ale (PM), Lawnmower Ale

Planned: Fire Rock Pale Ale

Vanquished: Nog Ale, Midnight Harvest Blackberry Wheat, Lake Pepin Porter, Summer Apricot Ale, Vagabond Gingered Ale (Extract), Evil Monk Belgian Pale Ale, Belgian Blonde Devil
everfrost is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-01-2011, 05:15 PM   #502
Bonwit
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Grapevine, Tx
Posts: 32
Default

I'd be interested in seeing some pix of your float switch setup. Turning on a bare element sounds like something I'd do. This looks like a cool little device, but I'm kind of hesitant to add the complexity. I also wonder if cleaning is going to be an issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IrregularPulse View Post
It's just a switch that floats with liquid level. When the level is high enough it closes the switch. I wired it in series with the +lead going from the PID to the SSR. So if the PID sends the signal to the SSR to turn the element on, but the water level is below the element, it won't be able to turn the element on and burn it up in open air.
I bought this one.
__________________
Bonwit is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-01-2011, 08:12 PM   #503
jkarp
Beer Herder
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
jkarp's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Elizabeth, CO
Posts: 2,105
Liked 33 Times on 29 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Awesome Oracle! Love how well that center input pump works.

As for recipe scaling, I use iBrewMaster on the iPad, but any software that can scale a recipe works. If I'm brewing someone else's 5 gal recipe, I just enter it in verbatim, hit the Scale button and enter "4" (I shoot for 4 gal finished in the kettle so I've got at least 3.5 going into the fermenter). My cornies are all 3 gal so I'm guaranteed a full cornie and if there's a little more left in the fermenter, I'll bottle it.

As for a typical brewday, it's going to depend a bit on if I want to do a simple single infusion mash, step/ramp mash, or continuous mash recirculation. Assuming a simple single infusion a brew day goes basically like this:

1. Calculate full volume of water needed for brew (batch size + boil-off + grain absorption) and begin heating it in kettle. Set PID to desired strike temp +2.
2. Have a beer.
3. Add salts to MLT. As strike temp approaches, open all valves and recirculate to heat up the MLT.
4. Close MLT valve and fill to desired strike volume. Stir to cool until strike temp is reached and dough in.
5. Have a beer.
6. Set PID to 170 for mashout.
7. With 15 minutes left in mash, begin slow recirculation, balancing valves to keep at least an 1" of wort on top of grain bed.
8. Once PID recovers to 170 (typically 20-30 minutes), shut off pump allowing wort to drain to kettle. Set PID to manual mode 100%
9. Once boil achieved, begin hop additions.
10. Have a beer.
11. Clean MLT and reconfigure system for chilling.
12. With 10 minutes left in boil, begin recirculating to sterilize the chiller.
13. At flameout, add whirlpool hops and cover kettle with lid. Keep pump running.
14. Start chiller water flow.
15. Have beer.
16. Once chilled, shut off pump and raise pump bucket (or blow in return hose) to push all wort back to the kettle. Close kettle valve.
17. Prep fermenter while the break material coagulates in the kettle.
18. Rack to fermenter, pitch, etc.

Cleanup:
19. Dump break from kettle and fill with a couple gallons of hot water and a tablespoon of PBW. Recirculate through chiller for 15 minutes.
20. Dump PBW and throughly rinse kettle. Fill with 5 gal of hot water.
21. Pump hot rinse water through chiller, dumping output into sink.
22. Disconnect everything, clean any remaining bits and put everything up for storage.
22a. Rotating the bucket horizontally above the sink a few times will help "screw out" residual rinse water, if you desire.
23. Beer time!

__________________

Many Bothans died to bring you this information.

jkarp is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-01-2011, 08:15 PM   #504
jkarp
Beer Herder
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
jkarp's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Elizabeth, CO
Posts: 2,105
Liked 33 Times on 29 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by everfrost View Post
So do you screw the RTD into the T now instead of the sightglass, or am I misunderstanding something?
Exactly. I "stole" the RTD & T from my sightglass, replacing it with a 1/2" 90 deg elbow. Now my T has the output facing down with the ball valve in it. I hang it off the counter top, obviously as it's lower than the kettle bottom.
__________________

Many Bothans died to bring you this information.

jkarp is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-07-2011, 10:59 PM   #505
Tfire136
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Dighton, Massachusetts
Posts: 42
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Default

Whats up everyone I made the below post in the Countertop Brutus picture thread and figured there may be more traffic here. I appreciate everyone's help!

"Well this may be the first of many questions as I have determined this is the exact setup I need lol. As I am gathering the pieces to put this all together, I already have a "Chillout" 10 plate chiller from homebrewstuff.com that I would like to integrate into my system. I am wondering if anyone has suggestions about how I could mount this to the bucket, and how I would set up all the plumbing and fittings (and would this actually function similar as if I had the CFC). I figure this chiller should more than suffice for 3.5g batches. By the way jkarp....this system is ingenious, thanks for sharing!"

__________________
Tfire136 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-08-2011, 03:29 PM   #506
HarkinBanks
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wayne, PA
Posts: 681
Liked 7 Times on 7 Posts

Default

I have done it with a shirron so it is possible. I had the shirron unmounted in a vertical position and the hoses basically kept it in place fine. I used blichman quick connects for wort in and out through the pump and used washing machine hoses for the garden hose connects for chill water on the shirron. Teflon tape on everything and it was leak free. If you use this setup I highly recommend bags for everything, hops and grain. The plate chiller will get clogged with hops and grain pretty easily with this setup. Trub and cold break are sometimes an issue as well. For this reason I ditched my plate chiller and went back to my ic. It was just too much of a hassle getting clogged and using bags for everything. I wouldn't say don't try it, but just be aware of your potential issues going forward.

__________________
Proud member of the CB20 club
Final Int-E-gration 120v (CB20 HERMS Batch or BIAB)

6th Street Brewing Company
HarkinBanks is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-09-2011, 02:23 AM   #507
Tfire136
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Dighton, Massachusetts
Posts: 42
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Default

HarkinBanks......thanks for the input! Maybe I will buy a CFC and safe myself the hassle.

__________________
Tfire136 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2011, 05:05 PM   #508
everfrost
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 37
Default

I'm curious, since this is my first time using a pump, what the typical flow rate is that folks are getting in chill mode assuming a build almost identical to the original....

__________________

Primary: Air, Air

Secondary: EdWort's Apfelwein, Dragons Milk October Ale, Air, Air

Bottled: Rum Cake Ale, Odin's Dragöl, Vagabond Gingered Ale (PM), Lawnmower Ale

Planned: Fire Rock Pale Ale

Vanquished: Nog Ale, Midnight Harvest Blackberry Wheat, Lake Pepin Porter, Summer Apricot Ale, Vagabond Gingered Ale (Extract), Evil Monk Belgian Pale Ale, Belgian Blonde Devil
everfrost is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-14-2011, 08:55 PM   #509
Baron ken
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Gardner, Kansas
Posts: 371
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by everfrost View Post
I'm curious, since this is my first time using a pump, what the typical flow rate is that folks are getting in chill mode assuming a build almost identical to the original....
I posted about 2 yrs ago that I was getting ~1gpm during chilling (I haven't been concerned enough since then to measure the flow rate ). That was with a pump-in-a-bucket (piab) like jk posted, but then I added a bypass valve for non-chilling transfers and that helped speed things up (other than chilling).
I've found that the ~1gpm can be too fast sometimes for chilling, but overall, the piab w/bypass works great.
__________________
Baron ken is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-14-2011, 10:17 PM   #510
everfrost
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 37
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron ken View Post
I posted about 2 yrs ago that I was getting ~1gpm during chilling (I haven't been concerned enough since then to measure the flow rate ). That was with a pump-in-a-bucket (piab) like jk posted, but then I added a bypass valve for non-chilling transfers and that helped speed things up (other than chilling).
I've found that the ~1gpm can be too fast sometimes for chilling, but overall, the piab w/bypass works great.
Ken...That's exactly what I'm getting (~1gpm in chilling mode), so I guess all is well. There is considerable work being done by this pump during the chilling phase and what with the reduced pipe size, I guess it's understandable. I just wanted to make sure that I hadn't kinked my copper up or something that was really affecting the flow rate.

Thanks again for the post, it was greatly appreciated. Hope to run the maiden voyage through my rig sometime next week...

Chad
__________________

Primary: Air, Air

Secondary: EdWort's Apfelwein, Dragons Milk October Ale, Air, Air

Bottled: Rum Cake Ale, Odin's Dragöl, Vagabond Gingered Ale (PM), Lawnmower Ale

Planned: Fire Rock Pale Ale

Vanquished: Nog Ale, Midnight Harvest Blackberry Wheat, Lake Pepin Porter, Summer Apricot Ale, Vagabond Gingered Ale (Extract), Evil Monk Belgian Pale Ale, Belgian Blonde Devil
everfrost is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Countertop Brutus 20 jkarp Home Brewing Photo Forum 43 07-07-2011 02:14 AM
My Concrete countertop bar build 670x DIY Projects 19 04-03-2010 03:02 PM
Muslin OK for countertop Mash? Saint Arnould All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing 5 02-02-2008 09:35 PM
First PM, Countertop Method IndyPABrewGuy All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing 2 11-17-2007 01:49 PM
countertop Partial Mash compact007 All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing 8 10-04-2007 12:54 PM