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Old 08-12-2009, 12:04 PM   #41
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Great! I found the other thread now, answered a lot of my questions. If I did want to do two 120V elements, do you know any of the logistics behind that? I cannot imagine running both of those element and the pump at one time on my weak 20A breakers, but then again, I'm no electrician when it comes to those type of calculations (resistors and LEDs I'm fine with). Even then, the second element would only be needed for the boil, so the pump wouldn't be running when both elements are running anyway....hmmm....
Any relatively modern kitchen is required by code to have at least two 20A circuits for small appliances. Figure out your kitchen's wiring and you're good to go.
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Old 08-12-2009, 12:13 PM   #42
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Controller insides:

brutus20-14.jpg  
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Last edited by jkarp; 05-22-2010 at 02:33 PM. Reason: Home server died. Reposting images.
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Old 08-12-2009, 04:38 PM   #43
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Many, many thanks. I think I might be able to make a PID after all.

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Old 08-12-2009, 11:25 PM   #44
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Obviously a misprint... 3850W to maintain a vigorous boil on a 5 gallon full boil. The BTUs were correct though at just over 13,000
Thanks The Pol, I figured it had to be, either that or there was some weird way to calculate output of two elements in the same kettle...
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Old 08-13-2009, 02:50 AM   #45
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Maybe a silly question, but do the heating elements need to be grounded, or are they grounded when you plug it into the controller?

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Old 08-13-2009, 03:01 AM   #46
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Maybe a silly question, but do the heating elements need to be grounded, or are they grounded when you plug it into the controller?
The elements SHOULD be grounded. 120VAC elements will only have (2) posts, one for the hot and one for the neutral. SO, you have to engineer a way to ground the element.
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Old 08-13-2009, 03:38 AM   #47
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jkarp,

This is a sweet system you got here. Is the controller wired about how you'd expect? I haven't wired up such a controller, are the green and brown wires on the bottom providing power to the controller? And then the other green/brown is connected to the SSR, yea?

Seems pretty straightforward. I like the switch+outlet combos. Are they also GFCI, or do you rely on your home circuit for that?

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Old 08-13-2009, 04:54 AM   #48
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JK, any advice on how you grounded your heating element?

I finally sorted through the BOM for the Pump/CFC and you may be missing a 3/8 nipple for the 3/8 valve wort out to kettle connection if I put my diagram together right. I could be wrong though...

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Old 08-13-2009, 11:07 AM   #49
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I love the compact CFC/Pump bucket. Really cleans up the rig and protects everything when you toss it in a closet

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Old 08-13-2009, 12:02 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsay View Post
This is a sweet system you got here. Is the controller wired about how you'd expect? I haven't wired up such a controller, are the green and brown wires on the bottom providing power to the controller? And then the other green/brown is connected to the SSR, yea?

Seems pretty straightforward. I like the switch+outlet combos. Are they also GFCI, or do you rely on your home circuit for that?
Exactly right on the green / brown wires. They're just some old automotive speaker wire I pulled from the scrap bin. The PID and SSR control only carry a few mA of current so heavy gauge wire isn't necessary.

Really good Q on the GFCI. As I always brew in the kitchen, all outlets are already protected. If I were planning on brewing elsewhere, I'd have definitely used GFCI outlets in the controller.
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