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10-26-2009, 06:53 PM
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#121
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Death by Magumba!
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Melbourne, Fl
Posts: 2,253
Liked 22 Times on 14 Posts Likes Given: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarkinBanks
JK is right on. After some experimenting and a lot of "Pol" reading on here, a 7 gal boil with one 2KW element will not cut it. I built my clone with two 2KW elements and it will give 7 gallons a rip roaring boil. I plug my second element into a separate circuit in my kitchen for the boil and throttle the other element in my PID back to 75%. This gives me 3500W for my full boil.
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Sorry to go off topic here but I keep seeing 75%=3500W output and I dont get it.
I have an auber PID and when put into manual with a value of 75% it still is max wattage but the duty cycle is changed to 75%. I can hear my kettle with a 4500W element die down and then go to a roaring boil and continue to cycle. My At is set to 0 so it isn't because my minimum duration is set too high. It sure as heck isn't PWM because it is entirely way too slow.
Unless you mean 75% is the average of x many Watts over 100% cycle time, you are still blasting your wort with 100% power.
I believe there is an allusion that you can fine tune the amount of instantaneous heat being applied to the wort, which isn't true. At least not with this equipment.
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10-26-2009, 07:00 PM
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#122
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wayne, PA
Posts: 675
Liked 5 Times on 5 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CodeRage
Sorry to go off topic here but I keep seeing 75%=3500W output and I dont get it.
I have an auber PID and when put into manual with a value of 75% it still is max wattage but the duty cycle is changed to 75%. I can hear my kettle with a 4500W element die down and then go to a roaring boil and continue to cycle. My At is set to 0 so it isn't because my minimum duration is set too high. It sure as heck isn't PWM because it is entirely way too slow.
Unless you mean 75% is the average of x many Watts over 100% cycle time, you are still blasting your wort with 100% power.
I believe there is an allusion that you can fine tune the amount of instantaneous heat being applied to the wort, which isn't true. At least not with this equipment.
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I'm certainly no expert when it comes to PIDs, hell, JK drew me a diagram on how to wire it. I just know when I set my PID to 75% with my other element on 100%, I get a roaring boil on 7 gallons. That's all I need to know.
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10-26-2009, 07:04 PM
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#123
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Death by Magumba!
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Melbourne, Fl
Posts: 2,253
Liked 22 Times on 14 Posts Likes Given: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarkinBanks
I'm certainly no expert when it comes to PIDs, hell, JK drew me a diagram on how to wire it. I just know when I set my PID to 75% with my other element on 100%, I get a roaring boil on 7 gallons. That's all I need to know.
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I wasn't directing anything at you bud. I have seen that math pop up here and there and it always kind of struck me funny. With several brews on my new system I finally felt experienced enough to say something.
Perhaps I have something set up wrong.
You are right. End of the day it does help control boil off rates which is all that matters.
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10-26-2009, 07:21 PM
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#124
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wayne, PA
Posts: 675
Liked 5 Times on 5 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CodeRage
I wasn't directing anything at you bud. I have seen that math pop up here and there and it always kind of struck me funny. With several brews on my new system I finally felt experienced enough to say something.
Perhaps I have something set up wrong.
You are right. End of the day it does help control boil off rates which is all that matters.
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Oh no problem, I am always happy to admit where my knowledge ends. Now I will wait for Pol to chime in and expand my knowledge. 
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10-26-2009, 07:37 PM
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#125
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Beer Herder
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Elizabeth, CO
Posts: 2,100
Liked 28 Times on 25 Posts Likes Given: 4
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You're absolutely right CodeRage. Elements are either on or off. 75% is the percentage of the time they're on.
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10-26-2009, 08:02 PM
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#126
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wayne, PA
Posts: 675
Liked 5 Times on 5 Posts
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JK, I just saw a pic of Sacc's sparge "arm" on his no sparge thread. Do you think there is a benefit to dispersing the recirculation water in the MLT like he does? As an old fly sparger, I have a small concern about dumping the recirculation water in the same spot over and over again. Just curious if you think this has any effect on the final product.
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10-27-2009, 12:56 AM
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#127
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Upstate, SC
Posts: 256
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10-27-2009, 02:03 AM
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#128
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: neighboring islands, Native Islander
Posts: 3,497
Liked 20 Times on 20 Posts Likes Given: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CodeRage
Sorry to go off topic here but I keep seeing 75%=3500W output and I dont get it.
I have an auber PID and when put into manual with a value of 75% it still is max wattage but the duty cycle is changed to 75%. I can hear my kettle with a 4500W element die down and then go to a roaring boil and continue to cycle. My At is set to 0 so it isn't because my minimum duration is set too high. It sure as heck isn't PWM because it is entirely way too slow.
Unless you mean 75% is the average of x many Watts over 100% cycle time, you are still blasting your wort with 100% power.
I believe there is an allusion that you can fine tune the amount of instantaneous heat being applied to the wort, which isn't true. At least not with this equipment.
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Think of your element like a fuel injector in your vehicle unless your vehicles have carbs, 19 carb only 2 FI vehicles and bikes in my collection call it original show and old school. The injectors operatE by the same duty cycleS, % time open flowing gas vs time closed no with no gas flow. Same asCodeRage stated above just another example. The only way to get a reduced voltage would be like a dimmer that chops the the tops of the wave cycle down hence a lower voltage causing the lamp to dim down. In this case a 5KW or 10KW dimmer would be way out of the question in just cost alone for brewing. I'll keep a VFD out of this topic as this is for motors not a resistance load.
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Bier Jagdwaffe... Bier 30 zeit.....~~=o&o>..........
Last edited by BrewBeemer; 10-27-2009 at 02:49 AM.
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10-27-2009, 02:32 AM
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#129
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wayne, PA
Posts: 675
Liked 5 Times on 5 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjones
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Yes, the SSR is correct, also get the heat sink to disperse the heat.
The first PID is the one you want, not the 30V DC powered one.
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10-27-2009, 02:33 AM
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#130
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Macomb, MI
Posts: 239
Likes Given: 1
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Congratulations on your BYO article nice job! It is nice to see how many on this forum have got into a magazine or publication. It would be interesting to find out how many. 
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Kegs and Kickstands Brewery
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming--"Wow! What a Ride!""
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