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Old 01-19-2008, 11:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yuri_Rage
go buy yourself a chiller.
Or use pipethread and compression fittings
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Old 01-19-2008, 11:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yuri_Rage
For shame! 20 lashes with a wet noodle.

Actually, you do indeed have a point. However, Bobby's design is fairly bulletproof, and it's definitely superior to some of the stuff I've seen for sale. In that regard, it's better to DIY since you're getting a better product for roughly the same cost.

Now, if you have no torch, no experience with soldering, and/or generally have a hard time with DIY projects like this, by all means, go buy yourself a chiller.

Bobby's designs are great. I used his video to cut my keggle, it's just that copper is very expensive and if you can't get a deal it doesn't pay to DIY. The sum of the parts is greater then then price of the whole.
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:03 AM   #13
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Nice tutorial Bobby, and great timing- I've got all the stuff sitting on my workbench to put mine together tommorow. I bought my 50' copper tubing (3/8) from coppertubingsales.com (it was $44-47 delivered).
The other thing is I bought a cheap vinyl hose, but may hold off and get a rubber hose instead.

Another thought for those that don't have the torch-borrow one from a neighbor, or get the neighbor to soldier it up for you in exchange for a few homebrews.

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Old 01-20-2008, 12:17 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joejaz
copper is very expensive and if you can't get a deal it doesn't pay
to DIY. The sum of the parts is greater then then price of the whole.
coppertubingsales.com - Everybody "can get a deal"

or try an ebay or google search for "refrigeration tubing".
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Old 01-20-2008, 01:01 AM   #15
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(1) 12" x 1/2" copper pipe ($3)
(2) 1/2" copper TEEs ($1.40)
(2) 1/2" x 1/4" copper reducers ($1.80)
(1) 25' x 3/8" OD soft copper tubing ($43 shipped for 50ft at copper tubing sales, per chiller would be $21)
(1) 25' x 5/8" ID rubber garden hose ($26 for 50ft, enough for two.. per chiller is $13)
(4) hose clamps. ($3)

Total is about $42 if you already have the solder and torch. If you count the time, it's about break even but building things is at least half of my enjoyment of the hobby.

If soldering is not your thing and you still want to DIY, you can replace the sweat Tees with 1/2" brass NPT. On the hose connections, you need 1/2" MPT to 5/8" hose barbs. On the copper entrance/exits you need 1/2"MPT to 3/8" compression fittings. These parts are probably twice the cost but it would save a lot of trouble and time.

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Old 01-20-2008, 03:42 AM   #16
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OK, Bobby I'm on the fence. Going to check out some prices.

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Old 01-20-2008, 12:34 PM   #17
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For good copper tubing prices hit scrap yards! I got about 50' of it sitting on the shelf for 15-20 bucks. Wasn't used. Wasn't bent up. Made a sparge arm out of some and it just sits there... Might have to get some hose and some fittings.... >=) BTW, should I make a CFC as long as what I have laying around? I was at a buddies house last year and he has the chillus convoultus(sorry, my spelling is terrible) and it took awhile to get the wort coming out at temp. We thought maybe it was because it was only 25' long. Took awhile to get the wort chilled and in the carboys. Makes that 5 min hop addition sit in some near boiling wort for a bit more than 5 min...

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Old 01-20-2008, 03:49 PM   #18
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Looks great. I built a CFC long ago, and I used a REALLY cheap garden hose from walmart, like $10 for a 50-footer IIRC. I'm sure it softened and leeched some plasticky chemicals into the cooling water, but it didn't seem like it was in any danger of bursting or anything. I think using a rugged rubber hose is a much better idea if cost isn't your primary concern, I'm sure it's a lot more durable and you should still be able to re-use your now-hot chilling water for cleaning, etc.

I sold the CFC shortly after building it and bought an IC, because it really wasn't practical with my equipment setup at the time. Now I've got a keggle with ball valve and I've been thinking a CFC would be a much better idea for me now than it was then... Seeing how great yours came out may be the inspiration I needed... that and the home depot gift certificate now burning a hole in my pocket

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Old 02-05-2008, 12:57 AM   #19
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in your part list you say you need a 1/2 to 1/4 reducer. i am having a really hard time finding that part and i'm wondering if you meant 1/2 to 3/8. Since the soft copper tube is 3/8 OD shouldn't the reducer fit 3/8?

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Old 02-05-2008, 01:18 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottfro
in your part list you say you need a 1/2 to 1/4 reducer. i am having a really hard time finding that part and i'm wondering if you meant 1/2 to 3/8. Since the soft copper tube is 3/8 OD shouldn't the reducer fit 3/8?
I wouldn't be surprised if he meant what he said, because the reducer is made for rigid copper pipe, and IIRC rigid pipe is measured by ID, whereas soft tubing is measured by OD... But don't quote me on that, I'm not 100% sure.

In any case, when I made my CFC I simply used 1/2" copper end caps, and drilled a hole in them and then used a reamer to ream them out to just the right size to stick the tubing through with a snug fit, and the solder took care of the rest. A step drill bit would work even better. Not QUITE as sturdy as a reducing fitting I suppose, but it worked fine for me.
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