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Old 04-29-2008, 12:12 PM   #111
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Ben - Pipe soldering is super easy... 20 dollars in equipment and a few spare pieces of copper for practice and you will be golden. The only pointer for homebrewers as far as pipe soldering goes is that lead-free solder does not mesh as easily, so use gravity to help pull the solder into the gap. Watch the video that Bobby posted on the OP. Its as simple as that!

Also, make sure you get food safe solder flux as well!

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Old 05-24-2008, 12:03 PM   #112
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I don't have photo's yet, but I made a CFC yesterday and this thread made it So easy. I had never sweated copper before, and by the last pice I was doing Really well. It really is just a matter of having the copper hot enough.
I got 50ft of 3/8 od ref.grade from coppertubngsales.com for like 36 bucks, and bent the other 25 feet into a IM for when I do PM on the stove top. I almost went with a 30 foot CFC, but two chillers are better than one.....
Thanks Bobby- I would have Never attempted this without the tutorial. I was grinning like a 5 year old on at thier own birthday party when I hooked it up and tested it all out.
Oh- also, I never Did find 1/2 inch to 3/8 reducers- so I just drilled 3/8 in holes into 1/2 end caps. It was easy!

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Old 05-24-2008, 01:35 PM   #113
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Cool man.. Hey, I would have come over to supervise for a couple beers. For anyone else looking for them, note that the reducers will actually be labeled 1/2 to 1/4" reducing couplings. The actual ID of the coupling will be 5/8" and 3/8".

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Old 05-24-2008, 03:01 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
. For anyone else looking for them, note that the reducers will actually be labeled 1/2 to 1/4" reducing couplings. The actual ID of the coupling will be 5/8" and 3/8".
In that case, they Did have the reducers. Dang it. No worries, punching a hole in the 1/2 inch end caps was effective. If I could change one thing about the entire construction session, it would have been to add a practive session with the sweating- so that Every piece looked neat and clean- the first time. Not that it's ugly.
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Old 05-25-2008, 01:48 PM   #115
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i had a real hard time getting the 3/8" soft copper through the 1/2" to 1/4" reducer....but after struggling finally got it through. now my buddy wants me to make a cfc for him.

any tips on getting the 3/8" soft copper through the reduce more effectively?

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Old 05-26-2008, 02:01 AM   #116
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You have to drill out the center stop with a 3/8" drill bit. It helps to solder it onto the 1/2" tubing first to give you something to hold onto.


In an unrelated note, I have some more substantial data on the performance of a 25' counterflow. I paid close attention when I brewed this weekend.

At full wort flow (no restriction on the march pump) and full coolant flow, the wort comes out about 2 degrees F warmer than the coolant. Water was 63F and the wort came out 65ish.

If I restrict the wort flow to half (or at least the ball valve on the output of the March pump was at half) and run the coolant at full, the wort coming out EQUALS the coolant temp or 63F. If I had to guess, the wort flow here would be close to a wort wizard venturi pump speed. If you are only gravity draining, you'd get the same performance while throttling your coolant back a bit.

One thing I didn't record was how much coolant I used but I'll try to remember for next batch.

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Old 05-28-2008, 10:17 AM   #117
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This brings up a thought I had that I was gonna start a thread with-
Now when you say coolant, your just refering to the water, correct? I have seen systems around here that use serious stuff in IM chillers. Secondly, have you (or anyone else) ever tried to do anything functional with the water once it has been through the CF chiller? Using it as clean-up water is an obvious option- but I was wondering if just hooking the exit end up to a hose and a sprinkler would be bad. A little warmer than city water typically is when you water your lawn, but after some time spent flying through the air- I can't see how it would be too hot.

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Old 05-28-2008, 11:33 AM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oguss0311 View Post
This brings up a thought I had that I was gonna start a thread with-
Now when you say coolant, your just refering to the water, correct? I have seen systems around here that use serious stuff in IM chillers. Secondly, have you (or anyone else) ever tried to do anything functional with the water once it has been through the CF chiller? Using it as clean-up water is an obvious option- but I was wondering if just hooking the exit end up to a hose and a sprinkler would be bad. A little warmer than city water typically is when you water your lawn, but after some time spent flying through the air- I can't see how it would be too hot.
In most all cases, the coolant is tap water. As for reuse of the cooling water, it can be used for anything that you would normally use warm water for, cleanup, washing your car, showering............
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Old 05-30-2008, 07:11 PM   #119
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I've even heard of collecting it back into your HLT for your NEXT batch in the same day but in that case, your outer jacket better be a hose meant for potable water and not an ordinary garden hose. I suspect this would be better reserved for a plate chiller.

You can also run it into your washing machine for a load of whites.

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Old 06-08-2008, 09:05 PM   #120
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Just wanted to says thanks Bobby_M just followed your design yesterday;



It was easy to put together following this post..I individual fluxed and soldered each joint. I tried prefluxing the hole copper assembly to solder it in one shot. Didn't work had to take apart, clean and flux/solder each joint separately.

When I was wrapping the counterflow around a 5 Gallon bucket I thought why not put it in the bucket for easy carrying;




Just wondered if anyone has connected there counterflow directly to there boil kettle using 1/2 threaded to 3/8 compression filtting;




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BeerCanuck

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