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Old 03-19-2012, 03:52 PM   #471
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So I've read a good many of the replies on this thread and it seems like some people have no issues at all with adjusting the temp control internally while others it doesn't work at all and bought a temp control unit. Which is the better method? And has anyone had any luck getting this method to work on this fridge?

http://m.lowes.com/mt/www.lowes.com/pd_279057-2251-FFC0723GB_4294735496_4294933768_?productId=1079173 &Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr%7C0%7C%7Cp_produc t_q ty_sales_dollar%7C1&pl=1¤tURL=/pl_Chest+Freezers_4294735496_4294933768_?Ns=p_prod uct_prd_lis_ord_nbr%7C0%7C%7Cp_product_qty_sales_d ollar%7C1&facetInfo=

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Old 03-26-2012, 02:06 PM   #472
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I just ordered my freezer from sears on sale $247 after tax right now. Just curious souls I be ok with using a 1x8 type of board for the collar and then 1" foam insulation?

What is the best width of wood and insulation for this? My DIY skills a re pretty low so planing and such are scary words.

Thanks

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Old 03-26-2012, 06:41 PM   #473
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I haven't built mine yet but I plan on using 1.25" thick wood with 1.5" foam insulation. This puts the total thickness of the collar just under that of the freezer walls.

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Old 03-27-2012, 04:04 PM   #474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yourrealdad
I just ordered my freezer from sears on sale $247 after tax right now. Just curious souls I be ok with using a 1x8 type of board for the collar and then 1" foam insulation?

What is the best width of wood and insulation for this? My DIY skills a re pretty low so planing and such are scary words.

Thanks
Wood is a lousy insulator, so more foam is better ... but the real key (IMHO) is eliminating all air leaks, which will not only allow warm air to enter and cause the compressor to run, but will also allow humidity, which will cause condensation inside the keezer.

Regarding wood thickness, the challenge with using thin (in your case, 3/4") and wide (7.5") boards is assembling them in a manner that will be stable and maintain the shape. If you're planning a collar with an integrated top you should be fine with one-by lumber ... but if you're planning to make a stationary collar and reuse the freezer lid on top, I would recommend two-by lumber because it's much easier to make strong corner joints, and the thicker wood will also provide a better seating surface for the lid gasket. Based on the builds posted on this site, the latter is much more popular, although I chose the former for my keezer.

Good luck!
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:49 PM   #475
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I read a lot of the posts about the thermostat wiring and am still baffled. I am hoping to use a standard pre-wired Johnson Controller A419 to control the temp to avoid any electrical work. Any reason this could be a waste of time and money? I like how simple it is and don't exactly know why I need a fan anyway. Any advise will be greatly appreciated.

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Old 04-18-2012, 03:17 PM   #476
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This is one of the better ones I've seen! How much did you spend on it? I'm planning on building one this summer and I think I will do something similar to this one.

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Old 04-18-2012, 04:22 PM   #477
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I built the exact same thing and it costed me roughly 200 - 250 bucks. I also bargain hunted the taps and freezer. The loves controller and shanks had to by new.

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Old 04-18-2012, 04:43 PM   #478
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I picked up a similar Chest Freezer on Craiglist. A 7.0 cu. ft. that was much cheaper than anything else out there. I had to troll for a month & pick it up immediately or else it would have been gone.

The internal thermostat didn't work for me either. Tried everything over a period of 1 week. Screwing it in, screwing it out. Trying different screws. Nothing worked. The brand is an Estate by Whirlpool & search found me nothing. The was built in '96 but works like a champ. I hated to do it but I picked up a Johnson A19 last week. I've spent too much time & $$$ building a collar to break it & start over. Home Depot alone I spent $90 on supplies.

The actual kegging equipment is where the real $$$$ is spent. There was some fella selling a home made kegorator with 2 taps, kegs, CO2 & all lines for $175 but it was kinda thrashed. It worked but it wasn't all clean & nice........... and I didn't grab it. I'm kicking myself now!!!!



A black insulating strip replacement cost $78. I wasn't going to do that! Since I let my 10 year old daughter go nuts with the chalk, I'm glad I didn't.

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Old 05-14-2012, 08:50 PM   #479
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Count me among the many inspired by Quaffer's build to replicate it-





Thanks to all the contributors to this thread.

Cheers ,

Pete

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Old 05-21-2012, 04:21 AM   #480
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Quaffer thanks for the inspiration and to all who've contributed wisdom allowing all of us to steal your ideas and clone your productions. The thread that's launched a 'thousand' keezers.

I just started brewing in January 2012 and have 10x5 gallon extract batches through so far... experimenting. All grain coming soon. Thanks everyone at HBT.

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