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Old 05-16-2011, 07:40 PM   #301
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Is 3/4" wood not big enough? That is what I just cut. I haven't assembled yet. I am going to glue foam insulation to the wood so hopefully that will help. The wood cost me $50 so I really hope 3/4" will work? Thoughts?

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Awesome! Thanks guys.

Got the collar all cut/joined/wood puttied and sanded. I just need to cut the holes for the shanks, temp contoller anb wires out the back. After that, I start staining. Nice to know that the Red Mahogany truns out looking nice. Maybe it was just the pine I was using that was giving it a purplish look. I have since moved to the Hemlock since my first attempt at a colar was a msierable disaster. I was trying to use a little better quality wood so I bought finished pine boards. The problem is that the are only 3/4" think so I was gluing two of them together around all of the sides. What a mess. Oh well...live and learn. I was a little afraid of the hemlock because I thought I wouldn't be able to find two boards that were straight. First two I picked off of the pile were near perfect.

I did have another question: What size hole saw for the shank holes? I think I read somewhere else the 7/8" works best. Can you guys confirm?

Also, for anyone else following this thread: My freezer (like most I would think) has a textured finish...almost rubberized. I found a nice paint that worked perfectly. I originally tried the Rustomeum Appliance Epoxy, but since it was enamel based it seemed to chip off a little easy. I could actually scrath it off with my finger nail after sitting for 2 days. This is what I ended up using (available at Lowes/HD):

http://rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=178
OVERVIEW:
New Rust-Oleum Universal is specifically formulated to work on diverse surfaces including wood, plastic, metal, brick, concrete and even vinyl. The Rust-Oleum Universal advanced spray system can spray from any angle — even upside down.

PRODUCT FEATURES:
For use on interior / exterior environments
One Universal coating for diverse substrates
Ultimate flexibility for extreme applications
Maximum adhesion for demanding substrates
Fast, efficient coverage
Fade and chip resistant
Rust preventative
2008 HANDY Innovation Award Winner

This stuff is pure awesomeness!

Thanks again!

John
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Old 05-16-2011, 08:31 PM   #302
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Is 3/4" wood not big enough? That is what I just cut. I haven't assembled yet. I am going to glue foam insulation to the wood so hopefully that will help. The wood cost me $50 so I really hope 3/4" will work? Thoughts?
I'm using 3/4" poplar...

I'm not done with the build yet, but I have attached it to the keezer just to see how it works, and it should be fine.

Some others in this thread have used 1" (actual 3/4") as well...
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Old 05-16-2011, 08:36 PM   #303
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I used 1x6 maple, which is actually 3/4" thick. (Or was it 1x8...don't remember right this second and I'm not at home right now.) Worked just fine. It's been running for, what, a couple years now I think. I don't even have any foam insulation inside the collar. Very, very minimal temperature loss through the wood. Wood is a pretty good insulator in itself.

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Old 05-17-2011, 01:15 AM   #304
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Cool. What are people that are connecting the collar to the top using to bind the two together?

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Old 05-17-2011, 02:03 AM   #305
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Cool. What are people that are connecting the collar to the top using to bind the two together?
I didn't use the top ... I put my own top on the collar ... but others who have reused the top just used some sort of adhesive (construction or silicone) and/or weatherstripping ... and at least one thread showed some angle brackets or other hardware to keep it secure.
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Old 05-17-2011, 02:09 AM   #306
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Cool. What are people that are connecting the collar to the top using to bind the two together?
Do you mean attaching the collar to the freezer?

I'm using these: http://www.lowes.com/pd_315689-1277-DPB113_0__?productId=3169843&Ntt=stanley+corner+br aces&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dstanley%2 Bcorner%2Bbraces

And these: http://www.lowes.com/pd_276821-2191-21360.0_0__?productId=3316522&Ntt=self+drill+screw s&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dself%2Bdrill %2Bscrews

Use the bracket screws (one the two outside holes on the bracket) for the collar, and the self-drill screws (one in the middle hole of the bracket) for attaching to the freezer.
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:53 AM   #307
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For people worrying about the thickness of their wood. You can make the frame out of 3/4" thick wood but if you still have a concern you can cut some small strips and attach it along each edge, top and bottom. This will build it out and give the top and bottom more surface area. My collar is 1 1/2" thick because i wanted my collar to overhang the freezer body a 1/2" on the front face and both sides. The back of the collar sits flush with the back of the freezer.. That way i don't have to worry about the reveal being consistent and square.

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Old 05-17-2011, 10:54 AM   #308
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I do that and I also have a wireless thermometer with the probe inside the keg. I just put the transmitter inside a ziplock bag, sanitize it and float it on top of the beer. The poured beer will typically be several degrees warmer in the glass than it is in the keg. I suppose the lines, shanks, taps and the glass itself warm up the beer some right away as it is poured.
how long is the probe on the transmitter? thats pretty cool. You think if you put it in a plastic back it would just float and the probe would not be in the beer providing correct temps.

I like your idea.
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Old 05-17-2011, 11:36 AM   #309
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Originally Posted by pola0502ds
For people worrying about the thickness of their wood. You can make the frame out of 3/4" thick wood but if you still have a concern you can cut some small strips and attach it along each edge, top and bottom. This will build it out and give the top and bottom more surface area. (snip)
Yeah, that's what I did on the bottom of mine. That also allowed me to create a lip for the gasket, since my collar is hinged.
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Old 05-17-2011, 04:46 PM   #310
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Has anyone had to replace their gasket? I purchase a used freezer and on 1 corner of the lid, the gasket it raising up which doesn't create a good seal, I can almost see inside the freezer, it's that bad. I was thinking about removing the gasket and putting a shim in that location to push it down. Does anyone know if that will work?

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