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duckmanco · 04-06-2011, 03:32 PM

thanks for all the tips everyone, looks like a pretreatment and a gel stain is the way to go, Minwax says the gel stain will stain metal and fiberglass, and if thats the case, it should be able to handle pine.

I'll post update pics as its done, which might not matter as we've seen tons of them done already, and all of them look amazing.

Gritsak · 04-06-2011, 04:23 PM

I used poplar and could not get a good stain using a brush. I had MUCH better results putting some on a rag, rubbing it in evenly, then wiping off. I tried conditioner and it didn't work for crap- made it worse actually. I'd try the rubbing method on a scrap piece before you spend $$ on conditioner.

**AZ_IPA** · 04-06-2011, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gritsak

I used poplar and could not get a good stain using a brush. I had MUCH better results putting some on a rag, rubbing it in evenly, then wiping off. I tried conditioner and it didn't work for crap- made it worse actually. I'd try the rubbing method on a scrap piece before you spend $$ on conditioner.

Thanks for this post. I decided to go with poplar and was planning on just using a brush...

Gritsak · 04-06-2011, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZ_IPA

Thanks for this post. I decided to go with poplar and was planning on just using a brush...

No problem. The poplar stained really nicely i think. I posted pictures on page 7 of this thread. It looks much better in person than the pics, though.

duckmanco · 04-07-2011, 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MW66

Jota21 beat me to it, but as a woodworker, I know there are certain species that stain horribly. Such as pine (or spruce/hemlock), maple, cherry, poplar, and several others. You need to block the pores somewhat on these types of woods. You can use conditioner as mentioned or a thin wash coat of shellac. Also, using a gel stain works better than an oil stain. If it were me, I would sand it and start over. If it's too much of a pain, then I wouldn't worry about it.

Minwax's Gel Stain saved this project, hands down without a doubt. This stuff goes on (and odly has the consistency of) barely melted chocolate and flat out covers and doesn't run. I went with "hickory" which wet looks like ebony, but either way, it covered really well and I'm happy with it.

So, anyone attempting to build this out of pine, as I did with a standard pine 2x8 or 2x10, skip the regular stain and go with the Gel Stain. Thanks MW66

mcubed45 · 04-09-2011, 01:35 AM

Can anyone give me the exact measurements of the collar they built? Haven't been able to find the fridge locally but sears will ship it to their store here in about a month. Wanted to get started on the collar in the mean time.

Also what is the minimum collar height necessary for mounting the hinges? I plan on having the collar attached to the body, not the lid. I will not be stacking kegs on the hump so I really only need enough height to mount my taps and the hinges onto the collar.

Without modfication the freezer already has enough height to house 1/6 kegs w/ Sankey couplers, correct?

Thanks to everyone for contributing such awesome info

**MW66** · 04-09-2011, 01:02 PM

Mine is 35 1/8" wide x 21 5/8" deep and its 8 7/8" tall. Mine is tall because I box framed the top. You can see it in my project thread. I will be complete this weekend and be able to show all of the rest of my pictures. I have a small round over (1/8") on the edges. So account for that. That is, if you make it perfectly square on the edges, it will probably hang over a little.

**mtbiker278** · 04-21-2011, 02:03 PM

I really want to dive into this project!!!

Not to beat a dead horse, but after much searching I'm getting mixed reviews that you can indeed fit 4 skinny ball-lock kegs on the floor. All of my kegs are the Pepsi style skinny ball-lock, and not the converted pin-lock. MW66 has the most recent build, can you confirm this?

A follow-up question is has anyone tried to dent in the compressor hump a tad to make 4 kegs fit instead of just trying to shove them in there? I would assume that the hump wouldn't have any refrigerant lines in it and would just be sheet metal plus insulation (could be wrong though). The only other thing I could think of is trying to make my round kegs square-ish.

Thanks for the feedback!

**MW66** · 04-21-2011, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtbiker278

I really want to dive into this project!!!

Not to beat a dead horse, but after much searching I'm getting mixed reviews that you can indeed fit 4 skinny ball-lock kegs on the floor. All of my kegs are the Pepsi style skinny ball-lock, and not the converted pin-lock. MW66 has the most recent build, can you confirm this?

A follow-up question is has anyone tried to dent in the compressor hump a tad to make 4 kegs fit instead of just trying to shove them in there? I would assume that the hump wouldn't have any refrigerant lines in it and would just be sheet metal plus insulation (could be wrong though). The only other thing I could think of is trying to make my round kegs square-ish.

Thanks for the feedback!

I cannot fit four (4) on the floor. However, I can fit three (3) and my 15 lb. CO2 tank on the floor. Another keg has to go on the hump. You would need to make your collar tall enough to provide clearance to put one on the hump. I would NOT try to dent in the hump as it's not necessary if you make the collar tall enough. There is no way that I would try to make a round keg square-ish, that's just asking for trouble with sealing. I too have the skinny style Pepsi ball lock kegs. I hope that helps.

Pittbrewer · 04-21-2011, 03:05 PM

subscribed for reference on my own project about to start