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Old 04-04-2011, 03:40 AM   #201
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"I'm running into a problem however now... Seems the hinges after everything is added arn't supporting the weight of the lid."

Another reason to mount the lid to the freezer. I would avoid drilling into the side of the keezer to avoid puncturing the lines. What if you constructed a prop to hold up the lid when you lift it, like the hood of your automobile. Is it possible to remove the collar to the keezer and mount the lid to the collar. Good luck with it.
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Old 04-04-2011, 12:18 PM   #202
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"I'm running into a problem however now... Seems the hinges after everything is added arn't supporting the weight of the lid."

Another reason to mount the lid to the freezer. I would avoid drilling into the side of the keezer to avoid puncturing the lines. What if you constructed a prop to hold up the lid when you lift it, like the hood of your automobile. Is it possible to remove the collar to the keezer and mount the lid to the collar. Good luck with it.
Yea, I thought of that but, it's not the best looking solution and so far, it looks great. I'm wondering if I could somehow create a good shim to attach to both the lid and the back of the freezer with glue, JB weld, or likewise that I could screw a hinge into... This morning it was staying up without assistance so as the breeze blows I guess...
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Old 04-04-2011, 01:46 PM   #203
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FWIW, I'm planning to use a prop if I have that problem with mine because I am also building one with a collar that lifts.

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Old 04-04-2011, 02:21 PM   #204
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FWIW, I'm planning to use a prop if I have that problem with mine because I am also building one with a collar that lifts.
Good to know. I ordered another hinge. I think I'm going to try and gorilla glue a 1" strip to the freezer with gorilla glue and then try to attach the hinge that way so I'm not screwing into the freezer. I'm hoping the gorilla glue is strong enough to support the piece of wood and the weight... I think 3 hinges should do it...

My failure was getting the mountable high pressure guages rather than just leaving the guages on the CO2 bottle... Those guages weight too much. If I glued the collar to the frame, there would be no problems... Oh well, hopefully in the future someone pulls up this thread and sees what I did! LOL
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:26 AM   #205
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It really keeps things clean but, I'm wondering if I can just add another pair of hinges for some added strength... Does anyone know if it's possible to add more hinges without drilling through coolent coils on this one? I was thinking of adding another pair, just using self tapping metal screws and then of course attaching to the lid... Any thoughts? I've come too far to blow this thing up! I guess the easy thing would be to just make a wood bar to prop the lid up...
Please do not drill through the freezer wall. If you drill into a line the freezer is toast.
Gluing should be safe, but is it strong enough? You may have to sand off the paint to make a clean metal surface, I'm not sure.
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Old 04-06-2011, 04:28 AM   #206
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I read that BYO build article for weeks, and after much deliberation, finally pulled the trigger, assembled everything today and all was going well until I realized that apparently staining pine (Lowe's top choice 2x8) doesn't seem to be working that well. I tried 1/2 pint of the Minwax Cherry and it just looked like I was brushing dirty water onto the wood and NOTHING even close to cherry. The BYO build article didn't mention the use of hemlock (which I now bet stains much better) so I ASSUMED (which usually doesn't work out) that it was a 2x8 from any home improvement store.....

so, any people with wood/stain knowledge have any ideas on what stain color/brand, prep work/chemicals/treatments or techniques to use on my pine collar? I'd like something with a redish tint to it, as my hardwood floors are cherry-ish. Great design BTW.

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Old 04-06-2011, 11:37 AM   #207
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they make something called a 'wood conditioner' which supposedly lets the stain absorb evenly into the wood. I've never tried it, so do some research, but it sounds like that might help.

Also, was the stain stirred (not shaken) enough? Sounds like the sediment might still be all at the bottom...

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Old 04-06-2011, 12:21 PM   #208
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they make something called a 'wood conditioner' which supposedly lets the stain absorb evenly into the wood. I've never tried it, so do some research, but it sounds like that might help.

Also, was the stain stirred (not shaken) enough? Sounds like the sediment might still be all at the bottom...


Jota21 beat me to it, but as a woodworker, I know there are certain species that stain horribly. Such as pine (or spruce/hemlock), maple, cherry, poplar, and several others. You need to block the pores somewhat on these types of woods. You can use conditioner as mentioned or a thin wash coat of shellac. Also, using a gel stain works better than an oil stain. If it were me, I would sand it and start over. If it's too much of a pain, then I wouldn't worry about it.
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Old 04-06-2011, 01:39 PM   #209
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I read that BYO build article for weeks, and after much deliberation, finally pulled the trigger, assembled everything today and all was going well until I realized that apparently staining pine (Lowe's top choice 2x8) doesn't seem to be working that well. I tried 1/2 pint of the Minwax Cherry and it just looked like I was brushing dirty water onto the wood and NOTHING even close to cherry. The BYO build article didn't mention the use of hemlock (which I now bet stains much better) so I ASSUMED (which usually doesn't work out) that it was a 2x8 from any home improvement store.....

so, any people with wood/stain knowledge have any ideas on what stain color/brand, prep work/chemicals/treatments or techniques to use on my pine collar? I'd like something with a redish tint to it, as my hardwood floors are cherry-ish. Great design BTW.
I used the Radiata Select... Only a 6" Collar though and it stained well, I just had to give it three coats of stain... I then gave it three coats of poly...

On another side note, the wood glued on with epoxy seems to be doing the trick for holding a third hinge... Just food for thought... We'll see in the long run. The epoxy is rated at 3200 PSI of holding force? Seems like the wood would give out before the epoxy but, I'm not really an expert or a pro at any of this...
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Old 04-06-2011, 02:56 PM   #210
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I know on Maple they say to use Shellac. Perhaps pine is the same way.

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