Control Panel - Page 7

**airbalancer** · 07-02-2009, 01:43 AM

Yea thats them in the side of the electric panel. They are twist lock 30A outlets from HD. Pretty simple install, just drilled the hole with a holesaw and screwed them in place. I did seal them up with some silicone.

bakins · 07-02-2009, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by airbalancer

Yea thats them in the side of the electric panel. They are twist lock 30A outlets from HD. Pretty simple install, just drilled the hole with a holesaw and screwed them in place. I did seal them up with some silicone.

I'm guessing this whole box is somewhat shielded from liquid? I'm just worried about some wort getting in "between" the plug and the receptacle. I guess that a very small chance though.

bakins · 07-02-2009, 03:14 PM

Looked at you site. I like. A lot.

Do you have a plumbing diagram? I'm looking and reading trying to figure out the flows. It looks simple, but I'm dense sometimes.

Thanks for sharing! My wife hates you

**airbalancer** · 07-02-2009, 07:35 PM

It's pretty simple actually. The pump discharge either goes throught the HEX or bypasses the HEX and feeds the top of the MLT. The pump return either comes from the MLT or the HLT. The boil kettle is fed by gravity.
Tell your wife no hard feelings

Mike

**lamarguy** · 07-13-2009, 08:13 PM

Thanks for the tip on the angled, hinged electrical box. I bought one off ebay last week for $40.

**lamarguy** · 08-04-2009, 02:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by airbalancer

What mounting adapters did you use to secure the 22 mm switches to the front plate? I just ordered the same switches and realized I have no idea who sells the mount/adapter.

**CodeRage** · 08-04-2009, 03:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lamarguy

What mounting adapters did you use to secure the 22 mm switches to the front plate? I just ordered the same switches and realized I have no idea who sells the mount/adapter.

You drill a hole. depending on the model it is 13/16 or 7/8" If they are the illuminated ones from automationdirect then it is 7/8. The switch portion twists and unlocks then pulls away. Stick the switch through the hole, twist and lock it to the base. Then use the base screws to apply tension to the plate securing the switch.

**lamarguy** · 08-04-2009, 05:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CodeRage

You drill a hole.

Got it. Ha!

**airbalancer** · 04-16-2010, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paddy21

Hi,
I'm building a 240V brew kettle.
I'm wondering if you have a BOM of your control box or could tell me what is going on with regard to the 240V heating element.

It looks like power comes in through a switch to some GFI fuses (maybe) and then to an SCR. The part I'm a bit fuzzy on is if the red & yellow wires are each leg of the 240V line.

Is this the idea?

Thanks! LOOKS AWESOME btw.

If you look on the third page of the thread there is a basic wiring diagram that might help you out.
Power comes in at the switch then goes to a 30 amp breaker. Then up to a 2 pole mechanical relay that kills power completely via the control panel switch. After the relay one leg (red wire) goes to the SSR then to the element. The other leg (yellow) goes directly to the element.

BTW you mailbox is full

Cheers
Mike