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04-23-2009, 02:09 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Spring, Tx
Posts: 83
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Conical help
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Hi guys, I bought 2 15 gal tanks from US plastics and I was wondering if anyone could help me out with the fittings I need. I'm not sure what I need for making the dump valve and a side "sampler" mainly the part that actually passes through the tank and is in contact with the fermenting wort
thanks
graham
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04-23-2009, 02:25 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 983
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04-24-2009, 01:03 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Spring, Tx
Posts: 83
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Ok, more specifically, Does anyone know where i can locate a 1 1/2" to 3/4" reducer for my poly tank so i can use a SS ball valve from austin homebrew supply?
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04-24-2009, 03:22 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Somewhere in the middle of Nebraska
Posts: 849
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grahambo
Ok, more specifically, Does anyone know where i can locate a 1 1/2" to 3/4" reducer for my poly tank so i can use a SS ball valve from austin homebrew supply?
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Farm Store. TSC or Orscheln around here. They have a about any fitting you need for an polyethylene induction tank.
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04-24-2009, 04:38 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 5,386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grahambo
Ok, more specifically, Does anyone know where i can locate a 1 1/2" to 3/4" reducer for my poly tank so i can use a SS ball valve from austin homebrew supply?
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Why not just go with a 1.5" pvc ball valve? It allows for a faster dump and less chance of clogging. SS seems to be of no value in this situation. I bought a 2 to 1.5 reducer from McMaster. They have your 1.5 to .75 #46885K265
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04-24-2009, 11:25 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: flushing michigan
Posts: 750
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Here's mine all the fittings are from mcmaster-carr

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04-24-2009, 11:59 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Spring, Tx
Posts: 83
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so #46825K65 + #9771K32 should work for my bottoms yes?
Lehr- what's on the inside of your sampling valve?
Further, I'm planning on building a shelf inside a fridge so I can just slide the fermenter in/out and just put an external thermostat on the fridge for temp control, can someone suggest a thermostat for this purpose?
Last edited by Grahambo; 04-24-2009 at 12:02 PM.
Reason: left out info
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04-24-2009, 12:21 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: flushing michigan
Posts: 750
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I have a stainless street elbow and a silicone tube for the racking arm I'll take some pictures tonight and post them on monday the temp control I have on there is a johnson control it will work on a fridge.
Pat
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04-24-2009, 02:23 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 399
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I got all my fittings from McMaster-Carr as well. I used the Norwesco 35g inductors, 2"- > 1 1/4" reducer, 1 1/4" ball valve for dump. I used 1/2" copper to make a racking arm, 1" piece -> 45 elbow, 6" piece, 45 elbow. 6" piece and a 1/2" ball valve for the racking port. I also put a 1/2" ball valve on the top with a quick disconnect as I fill mine via pump. I also put 1/4" fittings for co2 purge but I haven't used that yet.
Pics on our club website:
[Insert Name Here] Brew Club › INHBC Photo Gallery › Last updated albums
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04-24-2009, 03:11 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: flushing michigan
Posts: 750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p4ck37p1mp
I got all my fittings from McMaster-Carr as well. I used the Norwesco 35g inductors, 2"- > 1 1/4" reducer, 1 1/4" ball valve for dump. I used 1/2" copper to make a racking arm, 1" piece -> 45 elbow, 6" piece, 45 elbow. 6" piece and a 1/2" ball valve for the racking port. I also put a 1/2" ball valve on the top with a quick disconnect as I fill mine via pump. I also put 1/4" fittings for co2 purge but I haven't used that yet.
Pics on our club website:
[Insert Name Here] Brew Club › INHBC Photo Gallery › Last updated albums
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It's my understanding that you don't want copper in your fermenter do to leaching something from it.
Pat
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