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Old 10-28-2011, 01:56 PM   #1
Jeebas
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Default Coffin Keezer Questions

So I already have build thread - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/jeeb...roject-240063/ - but I figured I would start a new thread as I have some very specific questions

1) What have people used for drilling the holes for the taps?
2) What have people used for drilling the holes into the freezer lid?
3) For attaching trim to panels and the lid, whats the general consensus on method. I have heard "finishing nails + wood glue" and "pocket screw + wood glue" and others.
4) As far as wood glue and clamping, is there a good idea of how many clamps are needed (let's say for attaching a 48" piece of trim to a piece of ply) and how long the pieces should be clamped so that the glue sets? I have seen a lot of pics of keezer builds were people have 5+ clamps and I was wondering if there was a way to do this without buying a lot of them.

I am going to HD in the next few days to pick up a table saw - http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053 - and I figured that if there were other things that I would eventually need to buy to consruct this monster after I build it, I may as well at least price them out.

Thanks!

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Old 10-28-2011, 02:19 PM   #2
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you can get away without any clamps if the board you are gluing is exactly the same shape as what you are gluing it too. clamps just make the two pieces conform to each other. obviously if both pieces are warped, its going to take more clamps to get a professional finish. and always leave wood glue for 8-12 hours, preferably over night, to dry.

you can use any bi-metal hole saw to drill thru both metal and wood (i believe the size for drilling shank holes is 7/8", but double check first). for gluing a piece of wood to a metal fridge, i would use some construction adhesive and probably a lag bolt and nut all the way thru on either end of the board (and maybe a couple in the middle) to give it some stregnth. nails are for wood only and have no stregnth in metal.

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Old 10-28-2011, 06:05 PM   #3
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1.) I used a spade bit. I'm not a fan of hole saw bits when you need precision because they have a potential to walk if you are not careful. Since the piece that your taps are attached to is the first thing that people will see behind the taps, it needs to be perfect.

2.) Bi-metal hole saw. The metal is so thin that it goes through in seconds. The rest of the lid is foam insulation and thin plastic.

3.) That's a matter of preference and the situation. Glue and clamps definately so you don't see the nails but i ran finishing nails along the back or underside as well. Pocket screws in the place of the nails works but it will take much longer.

4.) it really depends on how straight the two pieces are. If there is a little warp then you are going to need to eye it and clamp accordingly. For a 48" section i would use at minimum 3 clamps, one on each end and one in the middle. Personally, I clamped every 18" to 24".

You will also need a mitre saw if you don't already have one.

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