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Old 06-06-2008, 12:49 AM   #11
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What if you used both? This and the sprayer......


Personally I use a paint stirrer on a drill but I run it backwards so the wort splashes up. I run if for maybe 3-5 min. I've only started to do this on the last couple of batches but fermentation has taken off 'better' it seems and I've been hitting my FG numbers.....

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Old 06-06-2008, 12:51 AM   #12
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I'm just guessing here, but I think putting the restriction of a spraying nozzle on the wand would slow the flowrate and defeat the effect of pulling the bubbles in through the holes. You'd end up squirting wort out of the holes, which would still aerate it, but not exactly the effect you're talking about.

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Old 06-06-2008, 04:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coastarine View Post
I'm just guessing here, but I think putting the restriction of a spraying nozzle on the wand would slow the flowrate and defeat the effect of pulling the bubbles in through the holes. You'd end up squirting wort out of the holes, which would still aerate it, but not exactly the effect you're talking about.
You're right, this is called a Venturi tube. The principle is that the piece of tube with the holes in it has to be a smaller diameter than the rest of the tubing. This makes the wort speed up through the restriction and cause a pressure drop, sucking air in through the holes. If you you restrict it again at the end with a spraying nozzle, you'll lose the benefit.

One thing you can try is to cut your siphon hose about halfway up and insert the venturi tube there so that there is a foot or two of hose below it. This will allow the air bubbles more time and distance to swirl in the moving wort. This will expose the wort to more surface area of air and should improve oxygenation
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Old 06-06-2008, 04:59 PM   #14
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I've been using this successfully for years but from copper.





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Old 06-06-2008, 05:21 PM   #15
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I was thinking that you should put it just above the wort surface inside the fermenter. This way the air/wort mixture gets the maximum contact time. It would make starting the siphon a bit tougher, but...

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Old 06-06-2008, 05:27 PM   #16
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I've been using this successfully for years but from copper.


Lets hope you don't run your hand across those holes, they look a wee bit sharp.

Neat idea though, I think I will need to give this a try.
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Old 06-06-2008, 05:33 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Camel View Post
One thing you can try is to cut your siphon hose about halfway up and insert the venturi tube there so that there is a foot or two of hose below it. This will allow the air bubbles more time and distance to swirl in the moving wort. This will expose the wort to more surface area of air and should improve oxygenation
Yup, I'll be doing this on the next brew -- I'll insert it about halfway down transfer tube.

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I was thinking that you should put it just above the wort surface inside the fermenter. This way the air/wort mixture gets the maximum contact time. It would make starting the siphon a bit tougher, but...
My keg boiler sits on a stand about 25 inches off the ground, so no siphoning necessary.

Like the copper, Orfy. What's the hole diameter?
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Old 06-06-2008, 05:56 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Camel View Post
You're right, this is called a Venturi tube. The principle is that the piece of tube with the holes in it has to be a smaller diameter than the rest of the tubing. This makes the wort speed up through the restriction and cause a pressure drop, sucking air in through the holes. If you you restrict it again at the end with a spraying nozzle, you'll lose the benefit.

One thing you can try is to cut your siphon hose about halfway up and insert the venturi tube there so that there is a foot or two of hose below it. This will allow the air bubbles more time and distance to swirl in the moving wort. This will expose the wort to more surface area of air and should improve oxygenation
Are we talking the sum of area of all the small holes vs the discharge area?

Do I understand this right?

If thats the case you can add lots of holes.

If the hole size is 1/32" Then
at 1/8" hose : 15 holes
at 1/4" hose : 60 holes
at 3/8" hose : 135 holes
at 1/2" hose : 240 holes
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Old 06-06-2008, 08:39 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schlenkerla View Post
Are we talking the sum of area of all the small holes vs the discharge area?

Do I understand this right?

If thats the case you can add lots of holes.

If the hole size is 1/32" Then
at 1/8" hose : 15 holes
at 1/4" hose : 60 holes
at 3/8" hose : 135 holes
at 1/2" hose : 240 holes
No, I'm a bit confused about the question, but you really dont need that many holes.

If you insert a small piece of 3/8" outer diameter racking cane into a 3/8id tubing, you'll restrict the cross-sectional area by about half (diameter squared = 4/64 vs 9/64) If you put too many holes in and they add up to the difference or greater, the benefit is lost, you 'll just squirt out the holes rather than suck in air.
That being said, you'll probably do better with 1 or 2 big holes than multiple small ones, 1 1/16" hole has the same cross-sectional area as 4 1/32" ones but the surface tension across the hole will be much less so it'll be easier to suck air in with a smaller pressure drop.

I'd say start with one 1/16" hole and see how it goes with a water siphon, if it looks good, drill another until you don't see gain or it craps out. Then get another piece of cane and drill one or two fewer than the crap out number.
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Old 06-06-2008, 08:52 PM   #20
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I've probably got 20 paperclip-sized holes in my cane. I'm guessing the holes are (reaches for caliper...) about .050" diameter, based on the paperclip on my desk being .040 dia.

When I look carefully at the cane while it's operating, I see that most of the air comes in the first few holes. This makes sense to me.

I think you'd have to make a LOT of holes to get the wort to come out without restricting the flow somewhere downstream. Given that this gadget is for the KISS-centric brew rig, I'm not planning on optimizing it beyond maybe putting it elsewhere in my outflow hose.

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