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Old 11-14-2009, 03:25 AM   #921
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I built my 10 gallon HLT the same as the 10 gallon MLT --

I have the output of the HLT (via tubing) going to a Stationary Sparge Arm --which sits on top of the MLT.
Me too (although I have more of a sparge 'ring' that sits on top of the grainbed).
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Old 11-14-2009, 10:30 AM   #922
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Excellent post FlyGuy!!

I was looking at the 10 Gallon Cooler AGS at NorthernBrewer and contemplating buying it -- this included (2) 10 Gallon Cooler (1-MLT and 1-HLT).

Glad I checked here before purchasing at NB.

Don't get me wrong NB is an excellent supplier, but didn't want to spend $238.

Just ordered my coolers from Ace Hardware at $49 each with free shipping.
And was able to find all of the hardware (except for SS Fender Washer) at Lowe's and Home Depot. Ace Hardware might have them -- if no luck -- I'll resort to McMaster Carr or Fastenal.
You got it. It just kills me when I see what some people charge for their ready-made cooler conversions. I didn't go all-out bargain conversion, bought the 10 gal. "big orange" cooler featured in the OP of this thread and a Bargain Fittings kit, and still did the conversion for under $80, and never looked back. Have had 100% successful AG batches, great lautering, good efficiency. As far as I'd recommend this conversion to anyone.
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:29 PM   #923
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FlyGuy,

You wouldn't happen to have these instructions lying around in PDF form would you. I work at a home brew store and would love to print this out and post it for costomers. If not, no worries. I'll just copy and paste.

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Old 11-15-2009, 10:22 PM   #924
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Does this work for the 1610 rubbermaid cooler?

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Old 11-16-2009, 05:50 AM   #925
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those brass fittings contain lead, if it were only water in your mash tun this would be fine but the acidity of your mash will leech the lead out. this is toxic to an extent and can also cause haze. an alternative is to use 3/8 copper tubing and instead of the washers use a rubber bung to seal around the tube with a plastic valve on the outside

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Old 11-16-2009, 09:49 AM   #926
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those brass fittings contain lead, if it were only water in your mash tun this would be fine but the acidity of your mash will leech the lead out. this is toxic to an extent and can also cause haze. an alternative is to use 3/8 copper tubing and instead of the washers use a rubber bung to seal around the tube with a plastic valve on the outside
soaking the brass in a vinegar/hydrogen peroxide solution (3-1) will remove the surface lead prior to brewing.
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Old 11-19-2009, 02:05 AM   #927
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Just built mine! It's taking the 1 hour 5 gallon hot water test right now. I goofed and got the non-stainless hose. Has anyone actually tried mashing with it??

Thanks for the idea, FlyGuy!

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Old 11-19-2009, 03:58 AM   #928
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Just built mine! It's taking the 1 hour 5 gallon hot water test right now. I goofed and got the non-stainless hose. Has anyone actually tried mashing with it??

Thanks for the idea, FlyGuy!
Glad to hear that the build went well, although you will absolutely have to replace that braid with a proper stainless steel one. Those plastic ones just won't work.
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Old 11-19-2009, 04:08 AM   #929
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Originally Posted by BreWirfel View Post
soaking the brass in a vinegar/hydrogen peroxide solution (3-1) will remove the surface lead prior to brewing.
so anyone that uses a brass ball valve should soak their system with a 3-1 ratio of hyd peroxide to vinegar?
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Old 11-19-2009, 04:18 AM   #930
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so anyone that uses a brass ball valve should soak their system with a 3-1 ratio of hyd peroxide to vinegar?
Here is some good info from HowToBrew.com:

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Cleaning Brass
Some brewers use brass fittings in conjunction with their wort chillers or other brewing equipment and are concerned about the lead that is present in brass alloys. A solution of two parts white vinegar to one part hydrogen peroxide (common 3% solution) will remove tarnish and surface lead from brass parts when they are soaked for 5 minutes or less at room temperature. The brass will turn a buttery yellow color as it is cleaned. If the solution starts to turn green and the brass darkens, then the parts have been soaking too long and the copper in the brass is beginning to dissolve, exposing more lead. The solution has become contaminated and the part should be re-cleaned in a fresh solution.
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