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Old 09-09-2008, 02:24 AM   #521
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Originally Posted by steelerguy View Post
Just out of curiosity, has anyone had the inside of their Rubbermaid warp? Mind warped after the very first mash. It isn't causing a problem, but there is now a pretty large lump that starts at the bottom and goes about 2/3 of the way up the side getting smaller as it goes. Not big deal, but it did make me question the quality of the cooler I got, especially because it was a Home Depot labeled Rubbermaid and I know they make people build crap parts for them to sell cheaper.
I have the Home Depot branded one too. I haven't brewed with it yet, but I did fill it with hot (~155F) water after I put together the plumbing, and didn't get any warping.

I wonder if maybe you got some hot water between the inner and outer walls of the cooler...? Is the warp close to the side with the spigot?
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Old 09-09-2008, 03:24 AM   #522
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I have the Home Depot branded one too. I haven't brewed with it yet, but I did fill it with hot (~155F) water after I put together the plumbing, and didn't get any warping.

I wonder if maybe you got some hot water between the inner and outer walls of the cooler...? Is the warp close to the side with the spigot?
It didn't warp immediately, I put some pretty hot water in there to preheat it and that didn't do it, it was the prolonged exposure to 150 or so degrees. The warp is actually almost directly opposite the spigot. Oh well, no big deal really, only cosmetic and I don't really care what the inside looks like...that is unless some grains are mashing!
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Old 09-13-2008, 01:54 AM   #523
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I used this mash tun for my first AG today. I was very impressed with it. The temps held stead for the entire mash and I barely had any grain come through on vorlauf. I preheated mine with 3.5 gallons of batch water overheated to 185 and had no issues. Worked great!!

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Old 09-16-2008, 08:19 PM   #524
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I read through the first half of the thread, and noticed that people were changing the specifications from the original design in order to adjust for better control, better components, etc.

Is there a final list that someone has gathered that lists all the materials needed to finish this project, and where to get them?

Thanks!

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Old 09-18-2008, 10:45 PM   #525
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I read through the first half of the thread, and noticed that people were changing the specifications from the original design in order to adjust for better control, better components, etc.

Is there a final list that someone has gathered that lists all the materials needed to finish this project, and where to get them?

Thanks!

I was JUST going to post the same thing, as i picked up my propane burner yesterday, and was going to grab MLT stuff today or tomorrow.
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Old 09-19-2008, 02:38 AM   #526
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Here are some parts! Read the first post in the thread!

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/15-b...d-lowes-22595/

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Old 09-19-2008, 09:08 PM   #527
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^ Yes, I'm aware that the first post indicates the initial parts used. I'm also aware of the fact that people have substituted some of those parts for others that performed better and were less likely to leak or break down. What I was hoping for was a list compiled by someone who has successfully modified the original design into something that is more reliable.

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Old 09-19-2008, 09:18 PM   #528
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The link I supplied was to ANOTHER thread, those are parts that I have used for 2 YEARS and they have yet to leak. Take it for what it is worth, if that is what you are looking for.

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Old 09-23-2008, 02:27 PM   #529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moonlightinred View Post
I read through the first half of the thread, and noticed that people were changing the specifications from the original design in order to adjust for better control, better components, etc.

Is there a final list that someone has gathered that lists all the materials needed to finish this project, and where to get them?
The only thing that has really changed over time in the MLT design discussed in this thread is the construction of the stainless steel braid, and those changes are pretty minor. If you can find all-stainless hose clamps, I suggest you simply stick with the original parts list from page 1.

Note that there has also been considerable discussion about the availability and need for the stainless steel washer on the inside of the cooler. I highly recommend using one -- if you can't source one locally (Fastenal seems to be the emerging 'best' place to look), check to see if any members have them for sale (many bought a bulk of them and are selling them at cost). Otherwise, you can do the bulkhead without the inner washer, but it won't be as sturdy a fitting and may be at risk of leaking in the future. Reasonable substitues for a stainless washer are brass washers (but even harder to find) or a stiff nylon washer.

Hope that helps!
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Old 09-28-2008, 01:19 AM   #530
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Well i dorked out and bought the Kewler Kit because my LHBS said they'd give me an industry discount.

Out of curiosity, what is an acceptable drip rate? I have a very slow leak...i'd say maybe a full drop that hits the floor every 10 minutes or so...i'm thinking that's accepatable. I think the problem is that neither of my adjustable wrenches go large enough to get a good bite on the nut, so i've only hand tightened it.

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