it doesn't really matter, as long as the washer fits on the cooler your fine.. you may have to shave off part of the outside washer if it doesn't fit correctly
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Primary - Lumpy Dog Brown, Little Sumpin Sumpin
I went to Lowes last night to get the materials to do this conversion. Now, I know this is going to sound stupid, but for the 5/8" stainless steel fender washer is the 5/8" the ID or OD? I have found a 5/8" stainless steel washer, but the OD is listed at 2" and this sounds a bit large. For the other three 5/8" washers what should the (I'm guessing) OD be?
As long as the ID is 5/8 (to accomodate the 3/8 nipple) and the OD is small enough to fit in the cooler, it doesn't matter...I'm pretty sure my washers were around 2".
Revvy's one of the cool reverends. He has a Harley and a t-shirt that says on the back "If you can read this, the bitch was Raptured.
Quote:
Originally Posted by YooperBrew
I gotta tell ya, just between us girls, that Revvy is HOT. Very tall, gorgeous grey hair and a terrific smile. He's very good looking in person, with a charismatic personality... he drives like a ****ing maniac!
They work, I used them. I regret the decision. Buy lots and lots of them to get a tight fit or spends half the money (and not have to worry about little crevises for yummy sugars to get trapped in and feed the mold colonies.) and buy some SS washers online.
I went with the "I wanna put this together this weekend and I don't care how much I end up paying". In hindsight, I care and wish I'd have done it right the first time.
I just built a 10 gal MLT but am concerned about sanitation. It's not leaking, but due to the radius of the cooler, there is a very tiny gap between the washer and the inside of the cooler.
Is this normal? it seems like the perfect haven for bacteria.
Silicone sealant from a pet store (designed for saltwater fish) in there will seal that right up for you.
And in all honesty, you need not be worried about bacteria. Mold for storage, yes, but everything that goes into your mash tun is pre-boil, so even if you've got bacteria in there, they'll die in the boil.
After ordering the rest of the parts needed for this from Fastenal (SS washers, Hi Temp O ring and SS hose clamp with SS screw) i put this together. I only used a 5 gallon cooler and upon testing there were no leaks. I tightened everything pretty good however, the entire assembly I put together rotates. Is this normal? Also, I bought an additional 5 gallon cooler for sparge water, but am unsure how to run the hose from the Hot Liquor Tank to the MLT. Any suggestions? Is a 5 gallon cooler too small, after reading the chapter in "How to Brew" I'm beginning to think I should have got 10 gallon coolers.
Last edited by Brutus Brewer; 08-29-2008 at 03:43 AM.
So I went to Maryland Homebrew today and picked up a Bazooka Screen for $20.
For anyone who wants to use a Bazooka Screen instead of the braid and is following the instructions here with the round cooler, you'll want to substitute the 3/8" Male barb adapter with a 1/2" x 3/8" Pipe Reducing Coupling (Watts A-815) in the yellow bag. This will allow you to connect the larger Bazooka Screen to the smaller nipple.
You'll also need to use a pair of needle nosed pliers and crimp the end because it's too long to fit. Two folds did it for me!
Now I'm excited to brew with it! I'll provide some follow up after.
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