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Old 10-18-2013, 05:48 PM   #2621
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So, I have a question. I'm relatively new to brewing (have 10 brews under my belt, all extract with 1 PM) and am looking to start doing AG asap. Found this DIY and am going to be looking at trying to piece together the parts to build myself a MLT this weekend.

My question is this, in one of the first few pages of the thread it was mentioned that this MLT is best suited for Batch Sparging, is there anyway to make it suitable for fly sparging? at this point I don't even know which way I want to go with sparging as I've never actually Sparged anything yet. I have my extract brewing done to an art and can usually get everything done in just over 3 hours, including cleanup. So, I'm looking to do something that 1) is easy to learn, 2)will help to keep my process streamlined.

All help is appreciated

Thanks,
Brew

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Old 10-18-2013, 05:57 PM   #2622
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Originally Posted by brewcephus View Post
So, I have a question. I'm relatively new to brewing (have 10 brews under my belt, all extract with 1 PM) and am looking to start doing AG asap. Found this DIY and am going to be looking at trying to piece together the parts to build myself a MLT this weekend.

My question is this, in one of the first few pages of the thread it was mentioned that this MLT is best suited for Batch Sparging, is there anyway to make it suitable for fly sparging? at this point I don't even know which way I want to go with sparging as I've never actually Sparged anything yet. I have my extract brewing done to an art and can usually get everything done in just over 3 hours, including cleanup. So, I'm looking to do something that 1) is easy to learn, 2)will help to keep my process streamlined.

All help is appreciated

Thanks,
Brew
You could add a false bottom or manifold rather than a braid.

FWIW, I got a false bottom because I wanted to try fly sparging. I did it for a few brews and didn't think it was worth the extra time that it took. I went back to batch sparging and an happy with that. I still use the false bottom because I spent the money and have it, but the braid worked just as well for batch sparging.
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:38 PM   #2623
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ok, so I've been looking at some batch sparging and it looks like I may just go that route for now, as my current setup will be best utilized this way. I don't currently have a brew stand, just a blichman burner and a keggle. I have 3 kegs, just need to cut the tops out of the other 2 and set them up for this great adventure of mine.

one more question, does batch sparging benenfit more from the braided line than from manifold or false bottom? or is it not as reliant on the grain bed settling like fly sparging?

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Gave up on bottling, moved on to Kegging.

Currently Kegged as of 6/15/14
Keg 1: Pliny the Younger Clone - Kicked
Keg 2: Pliny the Younger Clone - kicked :(
Keg 3: BM's Centennial Blonde (dubbed "the football beer")
Keg 4: BM's Centennial Blonde - Kicked

"Virtus Junxit mors non separabit"

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Old 10-18-2013, 09:52 PM   #2624
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ok, so I've been looking at some batch sparging and it looks like I may just go that route for now, as my current setup will be best utilized this way. I don't currently have a brew stand, just a blichman burner and a keggle. I have 3 kegs, just need to cut the tops out of the other 2 and set them up for this great adventure of mine.

one more question, does batch sparging benenfit more from the braided line than from manifold or false bottom? or is it not as reliant on the grain bed settling like fly sparging?
The grain bed will set whether you batch or fly sparge

The purpose of a false bottom or manifold when you fly sparge is to ensure that you rinse all of the sugars out of all of the grains, so you have to make sure that the liquid drains through all of the grains and doesn't channel.

When you batch sparge you are rinsing the sugar off by stirring the heck out of the grains before you vorlauf and drain. Channeling is not an issue so any way to ensure that the liquid drains and does not clog up will work.

TL:dr version: If you batch sparge use whatever is cheap, easy and available

Check out this site. http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/ Denny has been batch sparging for years and is the recognized expert
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:15 PM   #2625
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Anybody use the home depot rubbermaid 5 gallon cooler for this? Seems to be one of the cheaper ones at around $22. Some of the cheaper ones I saw though said not to be used with hot liquids.

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Old 10-24-2013, 09:30 PM   #2626
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I use a Home Depot rubbermaid 5 and 10 gallon cooler for my mashes. They work fine.

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Old 10-24-2013, 09:47 PM   #2627
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Anybody use the home depot rubbermaid 5 gallon cooler for this? Seems to be one of the cheaper ones at around $22. Some of the cheaper ones I saw though said not to be used with hot liquids.
5 gallon will work but you may wanna go bigger now instead of later unless you don't want to do beers over 8% with only grain. You could do bigger beers by adding adjuncts or extract.
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Old 10-25-2013, 06:21 AM   #2628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewcephus View Post
So, I have a question. I'm relatively new to brewing (have 10 brews under my belt, all extract with 1 PM) and am looking to start doing AG asap. Found this DIY and am going to be looking at trying to piece together the parts to build myself a MLT this weekend.

My question is this, in one of the first few pages of the thread it was mentioned that this MLT is best suited for Batch Sparging, is there anyway to make it suitable for fly sparging? at this point I don't even know which way I want to go with sparging as I've never actually Sparged anything yet. I have my extract brewing done to an art and can usually get everything done in just over 3 hours, including cleanup. So, I'm looking to do something that 1) is easy to learn, 2)will help to keep my process streamlined.

All help is appreciated

Thanks,
Brew
Fly sparging will only get you marginally better efficiency's than batch sparging. IMO the extra cost associated with fly sparging isnt worth it when you can just spend an extra $1 on grains to make up the difference.
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Old 10-25-2013, 03:05 PM   #2629
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I use a Home Depot rubbermaid 5 and 10 gallon cooler for my mashes. They work fine.
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5 gallon will work but you may wanna go bigger now instead of later unless you don't want to do beers over 8% with only grain. You could do bigger beers by adding adjuncts or extract.
Cool thanks guys, I'm upgrading from 1 gallon batches to 2.5/3 so the 5 gallon should be plenty. Awesome that this cooler works for it..total build cost should be about $55!
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Old 10-25-2013, 03:31 PM   #2630
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For another 20 bucks you can get the 10 gallon version. Otherwise you'll be spending another $40+ when you step up again.

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