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Old 01-31-2013, 05:28 PM   #2451
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Quick question... For a 48 qt rectangular cooler, is the 3/8 ball valve the correct size or is 1/2 needed. I have read both ways, just curious on it. Forgive my lack of engineering knowledge.
It's completely dependent on your cooler. They differ in size and shape greatly. I really haven't noticed too much difference in size of 1/2" or 3/8" valves, so which size you go with is more of a personal preference than a geometric issue.

For either size, if your valve's handle hits the cooler wall, just add a few more fender washers to the outside (this will likely require a slightly larger pipe nipple as well).


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Old 02-04-2013, 06:05 PM   #2452
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Did my conversion today. Ended up needing 7 washers on the outside to get the valve to reach right. Filled it with water and after an hour got a few drips. It's not perfect, but I think I'll be OK with a tsp loss over an hour.



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Old 02-04-2013, 08:54 PM   #2453
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I was thinking of doing this but my friend says "to do it right" I need an industrial 10 gallon igloo ($50-$60) and a nice false bottom (~$50) plus another ~$50 in hardware to plumb it. That puts me at ~$150. I can buy one from my LHBS assembled for $160. What do you guys think?

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Old 02-04-2013, 08:59 PM   #2454
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I was thinking of doing this but my friend says "to do it right" I need an industrial 10 gallon igloo ($50-$60) and a nice false bottom (~$50) plus another ~$50 in hardware to plumb it. That puts me at ~$150. I can buy one from my LHBS assembled for $160. What do you guys think?
It depends on what you want. For batch sparging a false bottom is overkill but is also future proof. I have no issues with brass, but stainless is pretty and makes some people feel better. It's all up to you.
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:20 AM   #2455
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I figure its not a beauty contest just about the finished product. Personally I like that ill have built everything that I can in my brew set up even if it is a little rough around the edges. The beer is what I'm after

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Old 02-05-2013, 06:31 PM   #2456
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I was thinking of doing this but my friend says "to do it right" I need an industrial 10 gallon igloo ($50-$60) and a nice false bottom (~$50) plus another ~$50 in hardware to plumb it. That puts me at ~$150. I can buy one from my LHBS assembled for $160. What do you guys think?
Some people get joy from buying what they percieve to be the best at any price.

You can make excellent beer w/ a cheap walmart cooler and $10 in parts...your process means a lot more than how much you spent on a MT.

If you want simple turn key, go ahead and buy something ready to brew...it's your dime!

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/ten-minute-cooler-mash-tun-conversion-125108/

Check out Denny's MT linked below, your friend would likely not approve, but Denny don't care!

http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:36 AM   #2457
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Default ~12 uses later... UPGRADE

So, sometime ago (IDK, ~8 months?) I built my MLT using this thread. I was/have ben very pleased with it. Espeacially since I haved ~$80 compared to my LHBS. I did use the sink line coil as a strainer and I can tell you that my first couple batches took a long time to drain... Those batches were only using about 12#.

After an evening of brewing with a buddy on his first time using a MLT, and drinking a lot of beer, the strainer got destroyed from the drunken plundering. I went to my LHBS and purchased the false bottom, and the 4" of tubing to conect for a little over $30.

My next couple batches went amazing... Now I recently have moved to 25+ # grain bills and its strugling. But it works, works well, and most importantly -gets the job done.

If you are interested in this, DO IT. But, a word of advice from experiance, go ahead and buy a false bottom.

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Old 02-07-2013, 08:53 PM   #2458
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Phew. Darn near 2500 posts. I started reading this 3 years ago and mostly made one out of a 40 qt rectangular cooler that I got from K-Mart back then, but never finished as I ran into some minor leaks and wasn't ready to go to AG yet anyways. Now I have a 15 gallon direct fired system. I think I will finish this mash tun up anyways so I can have an "on the road" mash system. That plus my SQ-14 and a propane tank and my water filter I can brew pretty much anywhere!

Good stuff!

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Old 02-08-2013, 09:21 PM   #2459
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Wilserbrewer, I currently have a MT I made from my old beach cooler and some hardware. I use Denny's method often. I would recommend it to anybody.

My set up works well but it is getting old and was never that efficient. I am also trying to upgrade to 10 or even 15 gallon batches. So I think I need a better system. To build my own good system it seems I'm only saving if I skimp on parts... a cheaper cooler, braided hose instead of a false bottom. I want it to be efficient and move up with me as I brew more and more.

What do people use for brewing 10-15 gallon batches?

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Old 02-08-2013, 10:00 PM   #2460
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I do 9g batches (usually about 20# of grain) in a 70qt. rectangular cooler with an 18" braid loop (connected to SS tee, then to the ball valve). My runoffs get very slow near the end, and I usually have to stop, stir, and re-vorlauf/run-off. I wonder if it's too much grain weight on the braid, but it's not crushed. In fact, I have coiled copper inside of it and it still runs off slow. The grain compacts like cement and the water doesn't seem to be able to make it down to the bottom. My crush may be a little too fine, but I don't get bits in my beer or tannins, so why crush more coarse?



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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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