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Old 12-02-2010, 09:15 PM   #1351
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Originally Posted by Ben_Persitz View Post
You think a bazooka screen would lead to stuck sparges? Really? It's just a stainless steel braid in essence isn't it?

I'm just going to be batch sparging. Think it would still be a problem?
Not sure about this since I have a false bottom, but I always thought that if you are going to have a lot of grain/weight, the braid can collapse a bit. I doubt it is a concern for a 5 gal batch of a big beer (i.e., 13-15 lbs of grain).
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:15 PM   #1352
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Yeah, I think without modifying it somehow that the grain bed will compact down and INTO that Bazooka screen. I think someone mentioned using one but they had some type of 'roof' or 'cover' over the top half of it to avoid the compaction. Those Bazooka screens aren't as tight of a screen as the SS braids suggested by Fly Guy.

For under 10 bucks and 30 minutes with a hack saw, you could build a copper manifold that will never float, break or get clogged with grain matter. The slots are on the bottom.

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Old 12-02-2010, 09:19 PM   #1353
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Yeah, I think without modifying it somehow that the grain bed will compact down and INTO that Bazooka screen. I think someone mentioned using one but they had some type of 'roof' or 'cover' over the top half of it to avoid the compaction. Those Bazooka screens aren't as tight of a screen as the SS braids suggested by Fly Guy.

For under 10 bucks and 30 minutes with a hack saw, you could build a copper manifold that will never float, break or get clogged with grain matter. The slots are on the bottom.
Got a tutorial?
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:26 PM   #1354
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Yeah I do think that you'll run into problems with it clogging. Mine clogs in the kettle sometimes from hops. A grain bed is going to compact down more than my hops do. I would also be concerned with channeling in the event that only part of it becomes clogged. You could end up drawing sparge water from a very small portion of your grain bed sucking through a hole the size of a dime.

I haven't tried it and maybe someone will say they work fine, but I just see trouble awaiting with those things in a MLT and look forward to getting a false bottom in my kettle so that I can ditch the one that I have.

My manifold sits on the very bottom of the MLT and sucks the thing dry by siphon. Those bazooka screens don't really do that.

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Old 12-02-2010, 09:28 PM   #1355
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Got a tutorial?
Just use elbows, tees and rigid copper tubing to make something like this:



That is the underside of the thing.
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:30 PM   #1356
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I don't solder mine. It comes apart for easy cleaning. I cut the tubing so that it would fit snug along the bottom and against the walls of the cooler.

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Old 12-02-2010, 09:33 PM   #1357
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Oh and a hint. (It looks like the guy in the photo used the same parts.)

The tee in the middle has (2) 45 degree elbows where the rest are 90 degrees. You connect them at opposite angles and you have your 'dip tube' angle to reach over your manifold to get to your valve.

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Old 12-02-2010, 09:34 PM   #1358
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How do you hook it up to the hose barb on the inside of the cooler?

Edit: I'll consider this but I might just buy a false bottom.

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Old 12-02-2010, 09:40 PM   #1359
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I used a nylon threaded barb and screwed that into the valve. I cut an inch or 2 piece of copper tubing and shoved it over the barbed end. The 45 degree elbow coming off of that middle tee slips into the piece of copper tubing. I control the snug fit by backing out that nylon barb a turn or two. It kinda 'snaps' into place.

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Old 12-02-2010, 10:50 PM   #1360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BendBrewer View Post
Just use elbows, tees and rigid copper tubing to make something like this:



That is the underside of the thing.
That is a good idea with the entire setup sitting lower. Gets rid of the dead space.
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