 |
|
11-09-2010, 10:13 PM
|
#1301
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: North Pole, Alaska
Posts: 1,792
|
Eh, the amount of sugar you get out of 5 lbs of grain isn't equal to 5 lbs of extract.
|
|
|
11-09-2010, 10:18 PM
|
#1302
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 179
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by klyph
Eh, the amount of sugar you get out of 5 lbs of grain isn't equal to 5 lbs of extract.
|
True, but it also isn't half the amount.
__________________
On TAP: Weiss Guy Hefeweizen
PRIMARY: Perfect Pale Ale
COMING SOON: Citra SMaSH, Simcoe SMaSH
|
|
|
11-10-2010, 05:50 AM
|
#1303
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 331
|
Nice guide thanks.
Anybody know where to get a replacement rubber seal for the cooler? I inherited a cooler without the fittings. Cheers.
__________________
____________________________
"The mouth of a perfectly happy man is filled with beer." - Egyptian Proverb
The Keg Ran Out Club (KROC)
Broomfield, Colorado
http://www.kroc.org/
|
|
|
11-10-2010, 01:25 PM
|
#1304
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Joliet, IL
Posts: 987
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by aussiebrewerincolorado
Nice guide thanks.
Anybody know where to get a replacement rubber seal for the cooler? I inherited a cooler without the fittings. Cheers.
|
An unconverted cooler? Whether or not it has the seal, there are ways around using it. One thing to do is up all the parts by a quarter inch, or better yet, get one of the bulk head thingys from Bargainfittings.com.
__________________
Fermenting: American Brown Ale
Secondary: None :(
Bottled: Oatmeal Porter
Kegged: ASB
|
|
|
11-10-2010, 01:40 PM
|
#1305
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Nashville, Tennessee, Tennessee
Posts: 255
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kayos
Looking at going ag. Thanks for the great post! Couple of questions...
1. Why does the cooler have to be 10 gallons if I am doing 5 gallon batches?
2. Why is everyone buying 2 of these (do I need a seperate mt and lt?)? Is it for rests? Why do you need rests?
3. What is a"hot liquor tank"? DO I need one? Why can't I just use my brew kettle?
4. How do I figure out the efficiency after brewing?
5. How do I figure out how much water to use with the grain, then how much with the batch sparge?
6. Do you still steep specialty grains or put then in with the base grain?
I saw an earlier post where a guy was using a 5g cooler and a similar homemade setup, put in 160 degree water held for an hour, then let it run into the brewpot. Then soak (sparge) the grain with 170, recycle that water a few times, then into the brewpot. What does the second cooler do? Thanks!!!
I think this calls for a new thread....nevermind
|
any chance anyone wants to tackle these questions??
|
|
|
11-10-2010, 02:07 PM
|
#1306
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Joliet, IL
Posts: 987
|
I'll do my best.
Originally Posted by Kayos
Looking at going ag. Thanks for the great post! Couple of questions...
1. Why does the cooler have to be 10 gallons if I am doing 5 gallon batches?
You can do a 5 gal batch in a 5 gal cooler of session beers (1.050 or lower). If you want to up the gravity (1.050 or higher) you need the extra capacity of a 10 gal cooler.
2. Why is everyone buying 2 of these (do I need a seperate mt and lt?)? Is it for rests? Why do you need rests?
The second one is for fly sparging. You don't technically need it to sparge. I don't have one, but I do have a 5 gal pot dedicated to heating my sparge water, which then gets poured four cups at a time through a collander that is resting on the grainbed.
3. What is a"hot liquor tank"? DO I need one? Why can't I just use my brew kettle?
The hot liquor tank ("HLT") is used to hold, and sometimes heat, your sparge water. Depending on your sparge method (no sparge, batch, or fly) you may or may not need one. With no sparge, you don't need one and can run off into your kettle, but for batch or fly sparging it is recommended that you have one. Also, you don't want to use your brew kettle since you will be running off the wort into it. You can use your kettle to heat the sparge water and then transfer it to a bucket to hold it for sparging.
4. How do I figure out the efficiency after brewing?
There's a formula for figuring out the total "points" (gravity) you should expect to get out of your total grain bill with 100% efficiency. You would then divide that with what you actually got. (i.e. expect 1.050 or "50 points" with 100% but actually got 1.040 or "40 points" would equal 80% efficiency.)
5. How do I figure out how much water to use with the grain, then how much with the batch sparge?
A general number is to use 2 quarts for every pound of grain (4 quarts in a gallon). So a beer with a 10 pound grain bill would take 5 gallons. (10 lbs X 2 quarts per pound [divided] by 4 quarts in a gallon). For figuring out your sparge water you need to take into account the amount of water absorbed by the grain and the amount lost in the deadspaces of your system (which you need to figure out by using your set up). It usually takes me 9 gallons of water total to make a 5 gallon beer which also takes into account the boil off and trub and hop losses in the kettle (7.5 gal pre boil volume).
6. Do you still steep specialty grains or put then in with the base grain?
Mash it with the rest of your grain bill from the beginning.
__________________
Fermenting: American Brown Ale
Secondary: None :(
Bottled: Oatmeal Porter
Kegged: ASB
Last edited by DrawTap88; 11-10-2010 at 02:08 PM.
Reason: Added bolding for easier reading.
|
|
|
11-10-2010, 03:33 PM
|
#1307
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Nashville, Tennessee, Tennessee
Posts: 255
|
thanks that helps a bunch
|
|
|
11-10-2010, 04:08 PM
|
#1308
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bend, Oregon
Posts: 3,169
|
Quote:
|
A general number is to use 2 quarts for every pound of grain (4 quarts in a gallon). So a beer with a 10 pound grain bill would take 5 gallons.
|
Great answers Draw but I would say that is on the high end of the scale. I use 1 qt to 1 pound for instance and the norm I think is closer to 1.25 qts. But whatever works for you.
|
|
|
11-10-2010, 05:10 PM
|
#1309
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Joliet, IL
Posts: 987
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by BendBrewer
Great answers Draw but I would say that is on the high end of the scale. I use 1 qt to 1 pound for instance and the norm I think is closer to 1.25 qts. But whatever works for you.
|
Thank you. I used 2 quarts for the simplicity of doing the math.
Also, no doubt you can use anywhere between 1 to 2 quarts per gallon. I should've said that it depends on the mash style you plan on using for the brew. I can see 1 quart to 1.25 quart per gallon especially for a step mash, since that allows the brewer to adjust the temperature during the mash with hot water additions. I know there is another reason for using a thinner mash, but I forget what that reason is.
__________________
Fermenting: American Brown Ale
Secondary: None :(
Bottled: Oatmeal Porter
Kegged: ASB
|
|
|
11-17-2010, 03:31 PM
|
#1310
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 331
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrawTap88
An unconverted cooler? Whether or not it has the seal, there are ways around using it. One thing to do is up all the parts by a quarter inch, or better yet, get one of the bulk head thingys from Bargainfittings.com.
|
Cheers, done, should be getting it in the mail this week. Thanks.
__________________
____________________________
"The mouth of a perfectly happy man is filled with beer." - Egyptian Proverb
The Keg Ran Out Club (KROC)
Broomfield, Colorado
http://www.kroc.org/
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
|
|