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Old 07-02-2010, 12:32 PM   #1141
Zamial
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1st off thanks for the great DIY. Mine is done and it seems to not leak. I followed the instructions and parts in the OP and it was all pretty straight forward.

I may end up swapping out the nipple for 1 that is the next size smaller in length. While it does not leak the "looseness" of the ball valve does have me concerned. I understand that it does not need to be crushed on but it seems loose and scary...lol. We will see as it is "testing" now.


UPDATE:
It is indeed leaking, very slow and very minor (under pressure from the heat inside). Unfortunately I have the hardware as tight as it will go. I have decided that I will try the 1 1/4 brass nipple vs the 1 1/2 as per the OP.

If the hardware store does not have 1 1/4 then I will be headed over to get 2-3 more washers to aid in the seal. I will report back!

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Old 07-02-2010, 01:56 PM   #1142
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Originally Posted by Zamial View Post

UPDATE:
It is indeed leaking, very slow and very minor (under pressure from the heat inside). Unfortunately I have the hardware as tight as it will go. I have decided that I will try the 1 1/4 brass nipple vs the 1 1/2 as per the OP.

If the hardware store does not have 1 1/4 then I will be headed over to get 2-3 more washers to aid in the seal. I will report back!

Placing an O-ring on the inside of the tun between the wall of the cooler and the SS washer could be a cheaper fix.
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Old 07-02-2010, 02:52 PM   #1143
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Placing an O-ring on the inside of the tun between the wall of the cooler and the SS washer could be a cheaper fix.
Thanks for that suggestion. I am using the white rubber ring that was with the cooler originally with a ss washer on the inside.(rubber ring against the cooler wall) On the outside I have a neoprene washer, that I had to cut down just a bit but fits perfectly, w/ 3 ss washers.

My contention is if I have to disassemble and reassemble anyway (even to put on an o-ring) I may as well try a slightly smaller nipple. I believe the nipple will "snug up" the fittings so they do not spin quite so easily vs. the o ring that will probably not have this effect.

I will report back!
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Old 07-02-2010, 03:26 PM   #1144
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My whole set up spins, but doesn't leak.

Now, it doesn't spin freely. It takes a little bit of effort to get it to turn, but it still turns. It doesn't rotate or spin when I open the valve to collect my runnings.

Also, over tightening the fitings could cause them to break, so a little spinage isn't a bad thing.

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Old 07-04-2010, 05:39 PM   #1145
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add another to the flyguy 10-gal igloo conversion club. Just finished my new MLT a bit ago. Filled it up. No leaks yet.

Only prob I have is that the nut on the top of the ball valve keeps coming loose. Hopefully its just a bad nut that I can easily replace and not an issue with the valve itself. I'd really hate to take this thing apart right after I got it together.

Anyway...thanks to all of the contributors in this epic thread. Can't wait to brew with this thing.

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Old 07-04-2010, 11:06 PM   #1146
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Default Final report...

Well the original OP DIY was good but I had better success with the 1 1/4 nipple. (I used: 3/8 x 3/8 hex nipple) I have a decent fit, the ball valve will turn but not easily, and no leaks.

I also picked up the 1/2 x 3/8 inch barbs vs. the 3/8 x 3/8. Just as an FYI to anyone interested I do highly suggest the 1/2 x 3/8 barbs as you will get slightly faster flow and it will be more uniform with all 1/2 tubing should you ever build a keggle. These also fit MUCH better in the SS braid IMO.

Thanks, Fly Guy for an excellent DIY!

Update 2: brew day tested and this thing is a BEAST!!!. 1st AG batch and it was smoother than silk.

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Old 07-09-2010, 12:47 AM   #1147
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I just picked up all the parts for this thing! I accidentally picked up a polymer braid hose but I caught it before I cut it up. Once I return this thing and get a real steel braid I'm ready to roll!

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Old 07-09-2010, 11:40 AM   #1148
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Just finished this setup yesterday, thanks Flyguy. Went to Fastenal and they had the SS washers. I bought 5/8" washers but had to file out the center just a little bit, but went well. I did make a change however, instead of using a steel braid, I made a false bottom.

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Old 07-09-2010, 04:40 PM   #1149
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Quick question for those using 3/8 fittings and the cooler's original gasket/seal:

Does the gasket have to sit on the flat part of the nipple for the best possible seal? Or is it ok for it to sit on the threads a bit?

I'm afraid if I keep the gasket totally on the flat part of the nipple that not enough of the nipple will come thru to the outside of the cooler. Then I won't be able to close the ball valve all the way because the handle will be too close & hit the side of the cooler.
I'm using a 1.5" nipple which is what most people seem to have success with so maybe the gasket placement on the nipple isn't that important.
I just want to get it right the first time so I don't have to assemble and disassemble a bunch of times.

thanks
--Dusty

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Old 07-09-2010, 05:09 PM   #1150
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Pretty sure that mine is sitting on the threads a little bit, which caused it to leak. I remedied that by inserting an O-ring between the washer and the inside of the cooler.

I also didn't have a whole lot of threads left to get the nipple on after adding the O-ring, but it's also not leaking and holding temp. well. My handle hits the side of the cooler when closed, but with 3 washers on the outside it is able to close. Hope that helps.

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