 |
|
07-07-2010, 06:49 AM
|
#1
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 129
|
Can these keggles be fixed?
|
|
Last edited by ks_medic; 07-07-2010 at 06:57 AM.
|
|
|
07-07-2010, 07:00 AM
|
#2
|
|
Alcohol to Urine 37+ yrs. Not any longer
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 5,262
Liked 88 Times on 88 Posts Likes Given: 6
|
Sure beats my setup! Welds look good to me, it's tight alright, I would go for it.
Welding inside, IMHO and I am probably wrong, is probably so that there is no gaps to have sugar to build up in. You might want to get a toothbrush and make sure you get the fittings on the inside nice and clean after each use. Everything ends up being boiled so even if it builds up you would be sterilizing every batch by boiling though. 
__________________
If I had a nickel for every beer I drank....I would be retired already.
Emphasis on drank, sober since August 28 2011
|
|
|
07-07-2010, 12:25 PM
|
#3
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Central City
Posts: 311
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
|
they weren't welded inside, i will post a pic c of mine, that is jus the heating through. if they were wleded on the inside they would be similar to the outside welds. then again the picture is a bit fuzzy
Last edited by bf514921; 07-07-2010 at 12:51 PM.
Reason: added second sentence
|
|
|
07-07-2010, 12:31 PM
|
#4
|
|
Vendor and Brewer
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Piscataway, NJ
Posts: 20,662
Liked 460 Times on 325 Posts Likes Given: 8
|
While they aren't beautiful welds, they are typical and will work fine as long as there are no leaks.
__________________
BrewHardware.com
Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!
|
|
|
07-07-2010, 12:48 PM
|
#5
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Central City
Posts: 311
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
|

this is what mine look like, they are welded on the outside only.
|
|
|
07-07-2010, 10:45 PM
|
#6
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 129
|
Thanks for the help. From what I'm gathering, it doesn't matter if the inside is welded or not because boiling will kill off the bacteria. So it's not worth having the inside welded as long as they don't leak. And i should just RDWHAHB. Am i on the right track here?
BTW Bobby M does that site glass look familiar. Its one you made and that thing is sturdy. Can't wait to try it out.
Here are some better pictures of the inside of the keggles.

|
|
|
07-08-2010, 12:11 AM
|
#7
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 319
Liked 3 Times on 2 Posts
|
If the ball valve can close completely without contacting the face of the thermo I don't see any problems. Everything is probably closer together than you had envisioned it, but still looks very functional.
__________________
Empire Brewing - Bend, OR
http://empirebrewing.wordpress.com/
Fermenting: Guv'nor ESB
Kegged: Ominous Black Ale, Molotov IRA, 2011 Below Zero Barleywine, Cream Dream Stout, Amarillo IPA, Apfelwein
|
|
|
07-08-2010, 12:46 AM
|
#8
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: North Pole, Alaska
Posts: 1,806
Liked 33 Times on 29 Posts Likes Given: 3
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by kmat123
If the ball valve can close completely without contacting the face of the thermo I don't see any problems. Everything is probably closer together than you had envisioned it, but still looks very functional.
|
Just swap the thermo with the sight glass.
|
|
|
07-08-2010, 08:50 PM
|
#9
|
|
Vendor
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 449
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts
|
Based on the better pictures, they weren't back-gassed and what you see there is sugaring. Not a big deal on the hot side of your brewery but if you can I would try to grind off the sugaring with a Dremel and re-passivate the area around the welds otherwise they will rust. BKF and a stainless or nylon toothbrush will repassivate the SS but the sugaring would have to be removed with a grinding or sanding wheel.
I have my valves rotated so the handle is vertical when off and I pull them straight down to open. This way there is at least a little less chance of burning the grips off!
|
|
|
07-10-2010, 04:29 PM
|
#10
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 129
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derrin
Based on the better pictures, they weren't back-gassed and what you see there is sugaring. Not a big deal on the hot side of your brewery but if you can I would try to grind off the sugaring with a Dremel and re-passivate the area around the welds otherwise they will rust. BKF and a stainless or nylon toothbrush will repassivate the SS but the sugaring would have to be removed with a grinding or sanding wheel.
I have my valves rotated so the handle is vertical when off and I pull them straight down to open. This way there is at least a little less chance of burning the grips off!
|
Thanks for the help. I know nothing about welding so when you say re-passivate its over my head. I take it sugaring is the raised welded area. I could get a hold of a stainless brush, not sure what BFK brush is? I've been wanting a dremel and this might just be the excuse to buy one 
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
|
|
|