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Old 08-07-2012, 07:09 PM   #21
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Sort of a hijack here but home many feet of line are you using. I have a some of the acuflex line I want to replace my lines with but not sure how much line to use with the acuflex. With regular beverage line I have about 10 ft and run 10 psi at about 38 degree.

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Old 08-08-2012, 02:05 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by rockytoptim View Post
Sort of a hijack here but home many feet of line are you using. I have a some of the acuflex line I want to replace my lines with but not sure how much line to use with the acuflex. With regular beverage line I have about 10 ft and run 10 psi at about 38 degree.
The most common advice is to use 50-100% more of the 3/16 barrier line than 3/16 vinyl. That will definitely get you close, and making them shorter later is easier than making longer. I used ~18 ft for a similar P/T with no foam, and didn't bother to shorten it since the pour speed was acceptable. I have found that some beers foam more than others, so there is no hard/fast rule for length. Having a few lengths available as spares is convenient and relatively cheap.
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Old 08-08-2012, 12:05 PM   #23
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I've got 20 feet and I've been fine up to 13 PSI so far.

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Old 08-08-2012, 01:01 PM   #24
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Thanks for the tips everyone, I have tried so many techniques and have found one that works very well for me

You will need the following items
heat (heat gun)
heat proof gloves
flared stretching device
washer (large enough to fit on your stretching device but small enough to catch on the hose)
large bucket of cold water
vegetable oil (cold oil is fine for lubing the hose)

Stretching of the hose is best done in three stages. First just a flare on the tip, then a bit more each time (Do not try to stretch it all in one shot this will lead to cracking and kinking)

  • Evenly heat up your flared stretching device with your heat gun on high(I found 60 seconds heating all sides of your stretching device works best)
  • Dip just the tip of your hose into the oil, and apply controlled pressure onto the stretcher. the oil makes it easier to slide hose on and off of the stretcher
  • After each stage of stretching I take the hose with stretcher inside and dip it into the bucket of cold water (this helps set the hose and allows you to stretch a small amount in each stage)
  • I also use a washer to push the hose off the stretcher after it cools (if you try to remove the hose by pulling it actually tightens like a Chinese finger trap)
  • After you have stretched the hose in 3 stages it should be able to almost slide onto your barb or fitting when cold, if you have not gotten to this stage do another cycle of heat and cold setting
  • Now heat up your barb fitting for 60 seconds and insert your hose into its final position and hold it in place for 30 seconds prior to dipping it in the cold water bucket.
  • I finished the job by soaking in PBW, hot water rinse, Starsan, then installed to my keezer.

Hope this helps some one, and if you do not have a heat gun and choose to use the oven heated jar of oil, be very careful hot oil can make a mess and hurt if you are clumsy.
I did not feel comfortable with any plastic fittings going into the oil, I only used this method on my raw SS barbs. But the heat gun worked just great heated oil is not needed.
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Old 08-08-2012, 01:20 PM   #25
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I didn't have any issues using boiling water. Only extra equipment I needed was a glove on my left hand and a MFL tailpiece.

I got the accuflex onto 1/4" barbed swivel nuts by putting the mfl tailpiece on the swivel nut first so that it would be easier to push. Took maybe 2 tries, third try I got it onto the barb, then dunked it again in the water and slid it all the way on. I used Part No. 52545K27 from McMaster for the Oetiker Clamps (11/32" to 13/32")...if i ordered again, I might go one more size smaller.

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Old 08-08-2012, 08:40 PM   #26
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I didn't have any issues using boiling water. Only extra equipment I needed was a glove on my left hand and a MFL tailpiece.
These flare tailpieces are handy for locking the swivel nut barb in place, dunking in the boiling water, and giving something to push with.

However, as I have said previously in this thread, these flare tailpieces can be a source of foaming issues if used on a shank. They seem not to cause issues when used on Sankey couplers. Using a standard flanged/barbed tailpiece for the shank end, and a swivel nut flare for the keg end, along with the flare tailpiece, allows easy swapping between flare QDs and Sankey couplers. Using swivel nuts on both ends requires requires using flare tailpieces to be used on the shanks, and can contribute to foaming.
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Old 08-08-2012, 10:36 PM   #27
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Why not just get 1/4 or 3/8? I have 5/16 and I can't get it on for the life of me. Granted I have almost no patience.

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Old 08-08-2012, 11:27 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedude123
Why not just get 1/4 or 3/8? I have 5/16 and I can't get it on for the life of me. Granted I have almost no patience.
The larger the ID of the line, the less resistance it provides, and the longer it needs to be for a balanced system and a good pour. Larger ID lines are fine if you have a 100' long run, or don't mind giant coils of beer line in your kegerator/keezer.
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Old 08-08-2012, 11:55 PM   #29
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As others, I use a heat gun to soften the tubing. I also flare out the end of the tubing with a large phillips head while hot. You need to push the tubing on relatively quickly after heating, otherwise it cools and wont go on all the way in one shot. After it's on I heat it again to form it to the barbs.

It's frustrating to work with this tubing and I've bent a bunch, but I just cut off the affected portion and start over. In the end it's worth it.

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Old 08-09-2012, 12:10 PM   #30
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It turns out I had 3/16 not 5/16. Would you really need that much more if you used 3/8's? It is only 1/16th more.

This is an honest question because I have no idea.

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