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07-16-2012, 01:38 AM
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#21
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hayward, California
Posts: 1,502
Liked 50 Times on 45 Posts Likes Given: 38
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it won't get cold enough. The problem isn't the refrigeration, i believe the insulation used is inadequate.
Probably going to shelf the project for a bit. Need to research insulation and a new way to put the kegs in, as it stands currently its awkward at best.
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07-16-2012, 09:08 PM
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#22
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hayward, California
Posts: 1,502
Liked 50 Times on 45 Posts Likes Given: 38
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This is how it finished. We removed the cabinet all together and grabbed our existing Danby kegerator and just put the countertop on it for now.
Thank god I had a back up, I'm off call and just counting down the hours for a beer tonight. We moved the cabinet kegerorater into the garage for further assessment and rebuild at a later date when we figure out the best rigid insulation to use ,as well as a less back strenuous way to load the kegs.
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07-31-2012, 11:33 PM
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#23
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hayward, California
Posts: 1,502
Liked 50 Times on 45 Posts Likes Given: 38
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So from my research, it appears the type of insulation I used may be the culprit to why this project didn't work. Apparently I'm using an open celled type of insulation, when I should be using a closed cell type of insulation. The local homedepot sells some pink insulation that should work better. I'm curious if anyone knows if 1" is an acceptable thickness for the project or if 2" would be needed. Obviously 2" would be BETTER, i'm interested in if I can get away with 1" thick.
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11-27-2012, 08:17 PM
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#24
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 247
Liked 9 Times on 9 Posts Likes Given: 23
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What did you end up doing with this?
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11-27-2012, 08:19 PM
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#25
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Post Hoc Ergo Propter Hoc
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: "Detroitish" Michigan
Posts: 40,553
Liked 2359 Times on 1448 Posts Likes Given: 3196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenixs4r
One more for the DIY copy cat of revy's tap handles.
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I'm honored, because you're project looks awesome....and insane.
Did you ever finish?
__________________
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Revvy's one of the cool reverends. He has a Harley and a t-shirt that says on the back "If you can read this, the bitch was Raptured. - Madman
I gotta tell ya, just between us girls, that Revvy is HOT. Very tall, gorgeous grey hair and a terrific smile. He's very good looking in person, with a charismatic personality... he drives like a ****ing maniac! - YooperBrew
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11-27-2012, 11:20 PM
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#26
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Grapevine, Tx
Posts: 28
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I can't help but wonder if your problem might be inefficient dissipation of heat from the condenser coil. When installed in the mini-frig, this coil is bonded with a metallic tape to the metal outer wall of the unit, which provides a very good heat-sink. Having the tube just loose like you have isn't going to cut it, and the icing of your evaporator plate is your first clue.
I'd try and find a way to increase the area of the condenser. Perhaps you can tape it to a sheet of metal screwed to the back of the cabinet, much like it was originally. H.D. or Lowe's carries this metallic tape.
Good luck, and hope this helps.
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11-28-2012, 01:42 AM
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#27
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hayward, California
Posts: 1,502
Liked 50 Times on 45 Posts Likes Given: 38
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Thanks for the responses. The project currently sits in my garage collecting dust. Hopefully before Xmas it will be finished as I'm pretty much being forced to take a week off in December.
As far why it hasn't worked it is more than likely a combination of the condenser coils as the above poster mentioned and a lack of proper insulation. The crap I used wasn't good enough, but it was free so I attempted.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Bonwit
I can't help but wonder if your problem might be inefficient dissipation of heat from the condenser coil. When installed in the mini-frig, this coil is bonded with a metallic tape to the metal outer wall of the unit, which provides a very good heat-sink. Having the tube just loose like you have isn't going to cut it, and the icing of your evaporator plate is your first clue.
I'd try and find a way to increase the area of the condenser. Perhaps you can tape it to a sheet of metal screwed to the back of the cabinet, much like it was originally. H.D. or Lowe's carries this metallic tape.
Good luck, and hope this helps.
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Thank you for the advice. I think I saw a spare sheet of stainless floating around the shop I'll attempt to tape them to when I redo this.
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11-28-2012, 01:44 AM
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#28
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hayward, California
Posts: 1,502
Liked 50 Times on 45 Posts Likes Given: 38
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To tide us over in the meantime I literally shoved my old mini fridge under the counter and drilled a hole for the home depot tower. The tap handles were custom widdled by my GF from a branch she randomly found.
Edit: and on the drip drains was some of the most delicious beer battered fish and chips using Denny's rye IPA as the beer of choice. My first attempt at cooking faired pretty well.
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04-11-2013, 05:33 AM
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#29
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: North of the hipsters, WA
Posts: 21
Likes Given: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenixs4r
Thank you for the advice. I think I saw a spare sheet of stainless floating around the shop I'll attempt to tape them to when I redo this.
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stainless retails heat, you be better off with aluminum or copper to act as a heat sink. Can't think of a good way to apply either right now, might need a beer for inspiration.
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04-12-2013, 03:24 AM
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#30
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hayward, California
Posts: 1,502
Liked 50 Times on 45 Posts Likes Given: 38
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I ended up chucking this project unfortunately.
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