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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Bottom Drain - Sanke Valve on Top or Welded into the Bottom
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Old 05-05-2013, 12:09 PM   #11
Cioffi
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Originally Posted by Huaco View Post
You honestly don't want to go too big on your drain. I plan to just stay with 1/2" fittings. If you go too big, you will start to have channeling issues through the mash in your MLT.

I plan to build my outputs as follows:

-HOLE IN BREW STAND TOP
-SANKE SPEAR HOLE
-2" TRICLAMP SILICONE GASKET w/ONE SIDE TRIMMED FLAT (very easy to do with a razor blade)
-2" TRICLAMP CLAMP
-2" TRICLAP TO 1/2"NPTF ADAPTER
-2" LONG 1/2 PIPE NIPPLE
-1/2" BALL VALVE
-(WHAT ERVER QUICK CONNECT YOU CHOSE)
-SILICONE HOSE TO PUMP
Huaco,

I'm thinking about putting bottom drains on all three kegs of my rig. Did you end up completing the bottom drains on yours? If so, I'm curious how it's working. What did you use as a screen for the BK? Pros and cons for all three kettles?
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:36 PM   #12
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Yep, 1/2 drain in the bottom is the way to go. That's what I have on my keg mash tun. Zero deadspace. If I were to go to an electric brew kettle I'd worry about draining the hop debris and break material out of the bottom. A side drain may be the better option there.

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Old 05-05-2013, 05:07 PM   #13
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My boil keggle is bottom drain with the tri-clover on the neck of the keg (1/2" piping). I use Jaybird's 15" level three false bottom. Works great, easy to clean (toss it in the dishwasher after rinsing) and no more hop spiders to clean. Electric BTW.

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Old 05-06-2013, 05:00 PM   #14
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Huaco,

I'm thinking about putting bottom drains on all three kegs of my rig. Did you end up completing the bottom drains on yours? Yes If so, I'm curious how it's working. great What did you use as a screen for the BK? see picture. I ordered this hop screen from StainlessBrewing.com It's awesome! Pros and cons for all three kettles? Pros: EASY CLEAN UP. ZERO dead space in the MLT. Easy clean up... did I mention how easy it is to clean the keggles? Cons: some hot break gets in with the wort. Not a big deal really.


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Originally Posted by Jon73 View Post
Yep, 1/2 drain in the bottom is the way to go. That's what I have on my keg mash tun. Zero deadspace. If I were to go to an electric brew kettle I'd worry about draining the hop debris and break material out of the bottom. A side drain may be the better option there.
I have actually recirculated the wort through the hop strainer for a little while to catch the hot break. With such a large surface area on the strainer, it does a pretty good job of it before getting too clogged with break material.

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Originally Posted by HawkATP View Post
My boil keggle is bottom drain with the tri-clover on the neck of the keg (1/2" piping). I use Jaybird's 15" level three false bottom. Works great, easy to clean (toss it in the dishwasher after rinsing) and no more hop spiders to clean. Electric BTW.
^^^^ how does this work with pellet hops?
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:53 AM   #15
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My boil keggle is bottom drain with the tri-clover on the neck of the keg (1/2" piping). I use Jaybird's 15" level three false bottom. Works great, easy to clean (toss it in the dishwasher after rinsing) and no more hop spiders to clean. Electric BTW.

^^^^ how does this work with pellet hops?


I only use hop pellets, and the false bottom catches all the hops that I typically had in my previously used nylon 5 gallon bag paint strainer bag.

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Old 05-07-2013, 09:07 PM   #16
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I have actually recirculated the wort through the hop strainer for a little while to catch the hot break. With such a large surface area on the strainer, it does a pretty good job of it before getting too clogged with break material.



^^^^ how does this work with pellet hops?
Wow! Thanks for the update - awesome set up.
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:53 PM   #17
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Wow! Thanks for the update - awesome set up.
No problem man. Here is a picture of my plumbing setup. The bottom drains go THROUGH the brew bench. I reinforce the cut holes with an in-sink-erator flange. These are just chrome plated.

The protected hole


The plumbing


Here is everything put together.


The flange top will probably interfere with the triclamp by a few thousandths of an inch. This is not really too much of an issue.
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