Ss Brewing Technologies Giveaway!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > The birth of Zeus. (Non typical brewstand build.)
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 11-17-2012, 01:29 AM   #11
Pogopunx82
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Burnsville, Nc
Posts: 212
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

That tankless water heater will heat water up to 170-180?

__________________
Pogopunx82 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2012, 06:50 AM   #12
brewman !
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,227
Liked 14 Times on 13 Posts
Likes Given: 16

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pogopunx82 View Post
That tankless water heater will heat water up to 170-180?
Yes it will.

Here is the spec for the stock water heater.

http://www.eccotemp.com/eccotemp-fvi...-water-heater/

Don't let the list price on that page fool you.

Here is the spare parts page:
http://www.eccotemp.com/eccotemp-fvi...eatured&page=1

The stock over temp sensor cuts out at 140F. If you contact customer service, they have an over temp sensor that cuts out at 180F.

This hot water heater does not use a computer to control the output temp. The temp display is just that, a display. There are two dials on it, one that controls the water flow through the unit and the other that controls the gas rate. You adjust the two to get the flow rate and temperature desired at that rate.

I haven't actually used it yet, but I'm expecting it to work pretty well. It will be very interesting to see how it works at the very low flow rates required during the sparge. I might insert a temperature control PID loop into the system using the lead to the over temp valve as an input to the unit to control the heater on/off.

This unit is also available for use with propane.

There are bigger and smaller units available. I bought mine about a year ago. I can't remember why I bought it over the smaller one. It would probably work well too at the flow rates a brew stand needs.
__________________

Getting back into brewing...

brewman ! is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2012, 06:54 AM   #13
bottlebomber
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: ukiah, CA
Posts: 14,267
Liked 2662 Times on 2074 Posts
Likes Given: 303

Default

Well, you've got most of what you need for the build

__________________
bottlebomber is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2012, 07:02 AM   #14
brewman !
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,227
Liked 14 Times on 13 Posts
Likes Given: 16

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bottlebomber View Post
Well, you've got most of what you need for the build
I'm hung up on a couple things at the moment.

#1, I'm waiting for an endmill so that I can machine some SS nipples into a cross to weld together. It should be here mid next week.

Its a hang up because I can't figure where to put the lower shelf until I know how the pump and manifold fit together.

#2, I'm having a hard time figuring out where to put the gas control valves.

I'm trying to hide and protect all the electronics and wiring under a cover over the bottom shelf. I want to put the GCVs there too, but I need to be able to get at them when I light the pilot at the start of the brew. And I don't want to have to remove all the stuff that is stored on the bottom shelf in order to get at the GCVs.

But if I put them somewhere else, I need to protect them from the elements, both when brewing and when its stored outside.

It sounds trivial, but its a head scratcher.

#3, I haven't figured out where to best mount the chiller.

#4, I haven't bought my 3rd pump and the 20.5 gallon brew kettle yet, but I can build and brew without those things.
__________________

Getting back into brewing...

brewman ! is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2012, 07:08 AM   #15
bottlebomber
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: ukiah, CA
Posts: 14,267
Liked 2662 Times on 2074 Posts
Likes Given: 303

Default

What type of endmill have you ordered?

__________________
bottlebomber is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2012, 07:18 AM   #16
brewman !
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,227
Liked 14 Times on 13 Posts
Likes Given: 16

Default

4 flute, center cutting 7/8" diameter with 3/4" shank.

Basically I am going to cut a semicircle out of the side in the middle of each of the nipples. They should then mesh almost perfectly when laid over each other at 90 degrees. The OD of 1/2" pipe is 0.840. A 7/8" endmill is 0.875.

I'll TIG weld them together once they fit.

I'll post some pictures when I do.

__________________

Getting back into brewing...

brewman ! is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2012, 07:23 AM   #17
bottlebomber
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: ukiah, CA
Posts: 14,267
Liked 2662 Times on 2074 Posts
Likes Given: 303

Default

Yes please, I'm having trouble visualizing what you're trying to do. Whenever someone mentions cutting metal my ears always perk up.

__________________
bottlebomber is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2012, 07:39 AM   #18
brewman !
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,227
Liked 14 Times on 13 Posts
Likes Given: 16

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bottlebomber View Post
Yes please, I'm having trouble visualizing what you're trying to do.
I can't easily describe it better than I did.

It might be helpful to think of the overlap between two pipes if you cross them at 90 degrees and have them offset by 1/2 their diameter. Try it with 2 paper rolls and you'll see what I mean.

The flow going from one axis to the other axis is going to be a bit impeded, but it will still be functional. If I find its too restrictive/ugly then I'll machine 2 nipples into 4 nipple ends and align and weld them to create a conventional male cross.

Quote:
Whenever someone mentions cutting metal my ears always perk up.
Its going to be interesting to see how an inexpensive endmill stands up to cutting stainless steel.
__________________

Getting back into brewing...

brewman ! is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2012, 04:12 PM   #19
bottlebomber
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: ukiah, CA
Posts: 14,267
Liked 2662 Times on 2074 Posts
Likes Given: 303

Default

I see now. As far as how the endmill will handle stainless, is it coated and do you plan on using coolant? It's probably going to look like hell if it's 316 or 304, since they're both highly ductile with a high nickel and chrome content, making for nasty burrs and high heat at the shear point. You real need to interpolate and not just plunge cut if you want a nice edge.

__________________
bottlebomber is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2012, 08:59 PM   #20
wdevauld
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 29
Liked 4 Times on 4 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

So you're the reason that metal prices have been going up

__________________
wdevauld is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Help me build my brewstand... sKafifer Equipment/Sanitation 3 06-06-2012 04:36 AM
Brewstand Build November DIY Projects 5 03-11-2011 03:26 PM
Brewstand Build bwiens DIY Projects 14 08-05-2010 02:43 PM
Brewstand build centralpabrewer Equipment/Sanitation 5 12-28-2008 02:39 PM
Brewstand build Dude DIY Projects 91 01-03-2008 03:15 PM