Behold the Keezer (pics)

**bolts** · 03-17-2010, 07:22 AM

My favorite picture for first...

Test fitting the original seal (removed from the bottom of the lid)

The original lid, minus the bits that keep the foam in. I completely disassembled the lid, including disconnecting all the wiring. I may put it back in later.

I attached the collar to the lid with bolts by putting threaded inserts in the collar with epoxy. Completely invisible method to attach the top. I put 2 on each side (none on the front/back). I attached the front with L brackets that were screwed to the collar, but just hooked under the sheet metal of the lid.

Some carefully cut 1" foam + clear silicon caulk.

I couldn't find proper sized flat stock aluminum so I used steel tie plates inside and outside plus a spacer. Should keep the hinge from ever damaging the collar.

Just need to plumb everything in.

Ready to serve....

For the finishing touches i'm going to plumb everything in, hang the CO2 tank outside and put a drip tray on the front. This was a fun build, although I'm sure I was way to finicky in getting everything just right.

Some tips for the next person to come along:

- Reusing the original seal worked really well. I built the collar to match the size exactly.
- ...and if you're reusing the seal, you can take the lid apart or not. Mine would have dropped right back in, but I chose not to
- Inserts work well to hold the lid on, but are quite a pain to install (especially when you drill too large of a hole)
- L brackets seem to work as well by reversing the bracket so it pinches the lid sheetmetal between the L bracket and the collar. One screw attaches the L bracket to the collar.
- The original seal was attached to the lid with plastic rivets. The plastic shield on the lid doubled as a guide for the 40 holes I pre-drilled to reattach the seal to the collar.
- Get everything figured out before you line it with foam and caulk it ... trust me

Rockweezy · 03-17-2010, 07:55 AM

Looks really nice. I had the same problem with the hinges, but was not as savvy as you. Great pics.

Jersh · 03-17-2010, 12:03 PM

Very nice! We're moving to FL in 12 days (but who's counting?) and I've gotten the ok from SWMBO to build a keezer after we get settled in. I can't wait! And all these keezer threads sure aren't helping my patience haha!

backsaw13 · 03-17-2010, 01:04 PM

that looks nice...this is next on my list. Just washed bottles for two batches and that sucked - time to keg. The first pic is cool.

Is there an advantage to having the collar attached to the lid so both lift up? Is it just to minimize lifting corny's into the keezer?

RegionalChaos · 03-17-2010, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by backsaw13

Is there an advantage to having the collar attached to the lid so both lift up? Is it just to minimize lifting corny's into the keezer?

Aside from that, you don't have to lift the kegs over the taps and lines. So less risk of damaging them, getting snagged, etc..

**bolts** · 03-19-2010, 04:26 AM

Thanks for the kind comments. This was a bunch of fun to build.

Note to wanna-be-keg-installers: Attach line to faucet, then attach to pressurized keg. In other news, beer fountains are cool.

Photopilot · 03-19-2010, 05:29 AM

Thanks Bolts,
Really appreciate your ideas. It was very much along the line of how I was thinking of doing it. But you having worked out the details will be saving me a ton of effort.

What kind of wood did you use?

**bolts** · 03-19-2010, 05:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Photopilot

Thanks Bolts,
Really appreciate your ideas. It was very much along the line of how I was thinking of doing it. But you having worked out the details will be saving me a ton of effort.

What kind of wood did you use?

I used S4S (surfaced 4 sides) Philippine Mahogany (aka lauan) from a local wood workers store. The wood is nothing special (and certainly not real mahogany) but it was cost effective compared to maple/cherry/fir/oak and it was nice and straight.

I stained it with with a brown mahogany gel stain and topped it with a indoor/outdoor poly. I'll also suggest drilling your holes after you stain/varnish it --- I ended up plugging my original set of holes for the shanks because the wood in the "back" looked much better than the original front side. Just use a backer board and you won't get any blow out.

I will say it was very much seat-of-the-pants as I got in the details. Just be patient and it'll come together.

mcwarhammer · 03-23-2010, 08:27 PM

did you put any weather stripping or sealant between the wood and the original lid?

also, did you line the lid with something? it looks white in one of the pictures...

I have a very similar, if not the same freezer that I'm going to start converting real soon, thanks for the help!

**bolts** · 03-23-2010, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcwarhammer

did you put any weather stripping or sealant between the wood and the original lid?

also, did you line the lid with something? it looks white in one of the pictures...

I have a very similar, if not the same freezer that I'm going to start converting real soon, thanks for the help!

The wood is directly against the freezer lid after stripping off the wiring and plastic underside. I put a bead of caulk down in the seam where they met -- but didn't actually 'glue' it to the lid with caulk. Then I lined the entire lid with 1" foam (That's the white you see). Home Depot had pre-cut 2x4 sheets that were easier to handle. Then I caulked that again -- the lid is basically fully sealed, probably better than the original.