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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Beer Engine or Jockey Box-like Beer Engine?

View Poll Results: What is the coolness factor on a scale of 1 to 10?
1 2 2.41%
2 1 1.20%
3 1 1.20%
4 0 0%
5 1 1.20%
6 3 3.61%
7 9 10.84%
8 26 31.33%
9 15 18.07%
10 25 30.12%
Voters: 83. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 03-09-2010, 01:55 AM   #21
Schlenkerla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bakins View Post
Does this whole assembly screw on/off? If so, could you rig up a disconnect of some time that screwed on? Maybe I'm over thinking it, your way is probably much easier. Just thinking out loud.
Yes - It does. The one thing to keep in mind you don't want to unscrew this cap if possible once the beer is carbed. The polypin will be pretty flimsy. You don't want to be crying over spilled beer. Not to mention, you want the spigot to be below the fluid line so the gas will not escape with slight temperature fluctuations.

Using one of these might be nice but you would need several. Polysulfone Disconnects



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Last edited by Schlenkerla; 03-09-2010 at 01:58 AM.
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Old 03-13-2010, 12:28 PM   #22
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An update to this chilling method. This worked too good! I pulled a gal pin from the fridge at 44F, popped into the box, with one blanket under the pin and two on either side but folded over the top. Then I filled the air space with over-stuffed plastic walmart bags. (bags stuffed in bags) Used about 5-6. Then went to work.....

Well, 12 hours later I pulled a pint, gave it a taste an noticed it was pretty cold. Dropped a in thermometer in my beer, it was 39F!!! I took out all of the blankets for a few hours then at the end of the night added just one, then re-stuffed the cabinet with the bags.

I'm using about one blanket every 24 hours. It will stay at about 50F.


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Originally Posted by Schlenkerla View Post
This is my planned chilling method for the pins...

http://www.techniice.com/english/index.htm

Using ice blankets on top and below the pin. These blankets are real cheap and get real cold and last for a long time. I need the 1 gallon pin to be at 50F so this should easily done.




I bought mine from Amazon. 6 ice blankets for $18

http://www.amazon.com/Techni-Ice-Reusable-Packs-Special/dp/B000ZOWG62/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1266672904&sr=8-1
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BS Nano-Brewery

Primary: SNPA Clone, Apfelwein
2ndary: Empty
Drinking: Dead Ringer IPA, Ma Duece (50 caliber) - Malt Liquor, Cranberry Wheat
Next: Cali-Common, American Amber, Smoked to Helles

|Myeast 50327|Easy Hop Oast|Smoked Homebrew|

Last edited by Schlenkerla; 03-13-2010 at 12:36 PM.
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Old 03-13-2010, 01:13 PM   #23
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Beautiful and inexpensive build. I like it alot but didn't vote. Maybe I misunderstood the poll. You are comparing cask beer to carbonated beer. Too much like apples and oranges. Yes I would love an engine for cask ales but don't think I would use an engine for carbonated ales. You cooling choice I'm very interested in. I will have to get some of those and try them.

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Old 03-14-2010, 12:01 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beerthirty View Post
Beautiful and inexpensive build. I like it alot but didn't vote. Maybe I misunderstood the poll. You are comparing cask beer to carbonated beer. Too much like apples and oranges. Yes I would love an engine for cask ales but don't think I would use an engine for carbonated ales. You cooling choice I'm very interested in. I will have to get some of those and try them.
The poll is nothing more than a coolness factor. I made the engine so that it would be portable. I could use it at an event or at home and it will fit in with the decor.

I agree cask & traditional kegged beer are two different animals. If one had a beer recipe split and it in half then served it both ways it would be like they were different beers.
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Success is getting what you want. Happiness is wanting what you get. - Dale Carnegie

BS Nano-Brewery

Primary: SNPA Clone, Apfelwein
2ndary: Empty
Drinking: Dead Ringer IPA, Ma Duece (50 caliber) - Malt Liquor, Cranberry Wheat
Next: Cali-Common, American Amber, Smoked to Helles

|Myeast 50327|Easy Hop Oast|Smoked Homebrew|

Last edited by Schlenkerla; 03-14-2010 at 01:03 AM.
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Old 03-17-2010, 12:42 AM   #25
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I'm wondering could I use something like this on the spigot so I can screw it on and off?

I already have a bunch of female flare fittings.

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Old 03-20-2010, 03:48 PM   #26
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Well for coolness the only way to have it better would be an original pump then give it to me. As it sits in your house I can only give it 8-9.

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"I've got a fever... and the only prescription is, MORE CARBOYS!"
primary- Tangerine Dream, SWMBO slayer,
serving- amber ale hop experiment #6, Roggenbier, apfelwine
planning- Cru?
conditioning- 9/9/09 barleywine
Drink water?... Never, fish fornicate in it.--- W.C. Fields
Most problems can be solved with the proper application of force.
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Old 03-20-2010, 05:17 PM   #27
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I really like the concept!! What if, just to say, you used a jockey box-style or cold plate to chill the lines of beer before dispensed into a glass?? I have seen them at restaurants and they work very well. Maybe put this plate on the outside back and still have the keg inside the box, IDK!?

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Old 03-21-2010, 01:50 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BierMachen View Post
I really like the concept!! What if, just to say, you used a jockey box-style or cold plate to chill the lines of beer before dispensed into a glass?? I have seen them at restaurants and they work very well. Maybe put this plate on the outside back and still have the keg inside the box, IDK!?
You really don't want to use a chill plate period. For cask style beer you are using priming sugar to naturally carbonate. No bottled CO2 whatsoever. Therefore its very important to keep your beer supply at serving temp all the time, so the CO2 stays in the beer. If you let it warm up then chill it by a coil or plate, it would go flat or be flat at serving time. Most of the CO2 would come out in the first few points. Remember the beer is anywhere from 1.0~1.5 vol of CO2. This rather low compared to force carbed beer.

The key or trick is to keep the beer at serving temp (50-55F) so the CO2 stays in solution. It depends on how much you have to serve and how quick it will be gone. That would dictate your chilling method.

The more I think about that's probably one reason why the UK industry tried to get away from producing naturally carbed cask ale or the traditional serving methods. I'm guessing the oxidation issue or spoilage was the primary reason.
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Success is getting what you want. Happiness is wanting what you get. - Dale Carnegie

BS Nano-Brewery

Primary: SNPA Clone, Apfelwein
2ndary: Empty
Drinking: Dead Ringer IPA, Ma Duece (50 caliber) - Malt Liquor, Cranberry Wheat
Next: Cali-Common, American Amber, Smoked to Helles

|Myeast 50327|Easy Hop Oast|Smoked Homebrew|

Last edited by Schlenkerla; 03-22-2010 at 01:15 AM.
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Old 04-12-2010, 01:11 AM   #29
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Awhile back some of you asked for in internal shot. Here is one with insulation inside plus 2 dry dry ice packs and the poly-pin.

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BS Nano-Brewery

Primary: SNPA Clone, Apfelwein
2ndary: Empty
Drinking: Dead Ringer IPA, Ma Duece (50 caliber) - Malt Liquor, Cranberry Wheat
Next: Cali-Common, American Amber, Smoked to Helles

|Myeast 50327|Easy Hop Oast|Smoked Homebrew|
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Old 04-12-2010, 01:18 AM   #30
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This is a shot off the mini engine....

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BS Nano-Brewery

Primary: SNPA Clone, Apfelwein
2ndary: Empty
Drinking: Dead Ringer IPA, Ma Duece (50 caliber) - Malt Liquor, Cranberry Wheat
Next: Cali-Common, American Amber, Smoked to Helles

|Myeast 50327|Easy Hop Oast|Smoked Homebrew|
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