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Old 01-14-2010, 03:54 AM   #31
sjlammer
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I respectfully disagree. my refrigerator is rated at 3.5 amps (full load).
I did this little calc. before i built the brewery.

Brewery = 41 amps max
fridge = 3.5 amps
microwave = 10 amps
toaster over = 12 amps
Lights = 15 amps

Total: 81.5 amps

Sure i don't have the dryer in there, but i would have to have every light in the place on, as well as be microwaving and using the toaster over simultaneously.

Basically, my girlfriend can't use the dryer for the twenty minutes that I'm sparging. That is the only time that the BK and HLT are heating simultaneously. Actually i designed the HLT with two heaters... Both on full bore to heat the water, and then only one to maintain the temp. I haven't implemented that into the software yet though.

For me it works. Im sure this will not work for everyone. Really the worst case scenario is that i trip my main breaker.

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Old 01-14-2010, 05:45 AM   #32
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There may be another solution. I believe there is a ramp setpoint mode that you can use to ramp up over say 15 mins and hold at 212 degrees. This would be your state 1. You could tighten up the differential swing to 2 degrees and spend some time calibrating the temp probes so that 214 degrees is a voracious boil and 212 degrees is a slow rolling.

Hopefully you've reached stabilization though PID after 15 mins elapses, exit, trigger an alarm and move to state 2 which is boil for 60 mins. at 212 degrees. Then exit, trigger an alarm and move to state 3 which could be off.

I could be totally off here but after peeling though the docs and wiki over the past few days, I believe this is possible. It would be great if eccsynd could comment.

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Old 01-15-2010, 03:02 AM   #33
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Pig,

I think that teh BCS will do this, but i don;t know if this will really help. Using the ramp mode is for when you want to slowly reach a certain temperature.... I think we are looking to boil asap, for the most part.

In addition, getting to a set tempertature is not a problem... the BCS does this just fine. the crux of the matter is does the measured temperature correspond to a rolling boil. Hence my program.

Let's say for instance that i determine that the temperature reading in my BK is 209 when i am at a rolling boil. I write a program that says turn the heater on to 100% until i reach 209.

So at some arbitrary point my temp sensor reads 209... the question becomes... am I at a rolling boil? the answer may be yes... it also maybe no. several factors influence boiling temperature, including specific gravity ( more importantly amount of solute (sugar)) and barometric pressure.

Ok... so where are we... my sensor says that i am at boiling (209, by empiracal evidence) i want to make sure though, so i leave teh burner on for a bit longer, just to make sure. Hence the time delay. If i happen to be there, then i hit the Win button to change state. If not, then the worst thing that happens is that i boil on full blast for three minutes.

At any rate, while i think your way will work, i think that using the PID or ramp function is overkill for this application.

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~"A fine beer may be judged with only one sip, but it's better to be thoroughly sure.”

On Deck: Spruce APA, Chambord Fortified Chocolate Porter, Imperial IPA

Primary:
Primary:
Secondary: Belgian Dark Strong Ale
Conical:
Lagering: None
Kegged/Drinking: Cascade, Cent., Amarillo Pale Ale
Kegged/Drinking: Belgian Pale Ale (HG yeast for yeast cropping see above)
Bottled: ESB
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Old 01-15-2010, 05:18 AM   #34
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Good points, I agree. If the goal is to get to boil asap the PID really doesn't help much.

Barometric pressure and viscosity/SG do affect boiling point, but I wouldn't imagine that you would see greater than a 4 degree shift from one brew to the next as long as it's in the same season. Your swing on the BCS is default set to 4 degrees which could cause more damage to boil consistency than barometric/SG swings. If you calibrate your temp probes every few sessions then you'll only neet to figure out how much manual intervention you'll need to do from batch to batch to hit the right boil conditions.

The delay is a good idea - as long as the total time (boil + delay) isn't longer than it takes my PID process to slowly reach 209 degrees ;>)

Good info - this helps me get a feel for how BCS handles specific tasks. I just started screwing with it and am learning more every day. I appreciate it's flexibility that's for sure.

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Old 02-03-2010, 08:57 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjlammer View Post
here is me brewing my first beer on it.. a nut brown



Ok... done for now.

Thanks to all of you who have been a tremendous inspiration, and offered guidance
Nice job! Really impressed with your straightforward approach.

I was wondering about a heating unit in the MLT (if I saw that correctly). Would a heating unit in the MLT impact the wort in a negative way? Such as scorching?

Again, I may have seen that incorrectly.

Thanks!
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Old 02-04-2010, 01:42 AM   #36
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There might be some confusion. The HLT has two heaters (120V 2000W), a temperature probe, and the copper Heat Exchanger.

The MLT has a temperature probe and a stainless steel braid.

I can link the pictures if that isn't clear

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~"A fine beer may be judged with only one sip, but it's better to be thoroughly sure.”

On Deck: Spruce APA, Chambord Fortified Chocolate Porter, Imperial IPA

Primary:
Primary:
Secondary: Belgian Dark Strong Ale
Conical:
Lagering: None
Kegged/Drinking: Cascade, Cent., Amarillo Pale Ale
Kegged/Drinking: Belgian Pale Ale (HG yeast for yeast cropping see above)
Bottled: ESB
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Old 02-04-2010, 03:10 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjlammer View Post
There might be some confusion. The HLT has two heaters (120V 2000W), a temperature probe, and the copper Heat Exchanger.

The MLT has a temperature probe and a stainless steel braid.

I can link the pictures if that isn't clear
Thanks, I actually figured that was the case after I posted - seemed obvious I guess in hindsight!

Thanks!
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Kegged: ESB, Foundation Stout, Brothers English IPA, Kolsch, Bavarian Hefe
Secondary: Abbey Dubbel
Primary: Imperial Cherry Bavarian Hefe, Imperial Cherry Brussel Abbey
On Deck: World Class ESB, BKRye
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Old 08-24-2010, 12:02 PM   #38
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Great build!

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Old 01-06-2011, 02:38 AM   #39
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Sorry to bring up an older thread, but I was curious if you have any round-about figures on what this cost? I'm still doing a lot of research but I definitely will be doing an all-electric brewery and plan to use the BCS, so any advice/info would be most helpful. Very nice build by the way!

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Old 01-06-2011, 03:25 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worstbrewing View Post
Sorry to bring up an older thread, but I was curious if you have any round-about figures on what this cost? I'm still doing a lot of research but I definitely will be doing an all-electric brewery and plan to use the BCS, so any advice/info would be most helpful. Very nice build by the way!
I actually never calculated the total cost... to be frank, i kinda don't want to know.

If i had to guess, i would say $1500. I had the LCD and extra computer.
I bought as much as i could on craigslist and mcmaster.com
__________________
~"A fine beer may be judged with only one sip, but it's better to be thoroughly sure.”

On Deck: Spruce APA, Chambord Fortified Chocolate Porter, Imperial IPA

Primary:
Primary:
Secondary: Belgian Dark Strong Ale
Conical:
Lagering: None
Kegged/Drinking: Cascade, Cent., Amarillo Pale Ale
Kegged/Drinking: Belgian Pale Ale (HG yeast for yeast cropping see above)
Bottled: ESB
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