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Old 01-13-2010, 02:04 PM   #21
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I have a 125amp service to my house. I have no worries going with 30amp circuit for my brew rig. I will be using the 20amp 120v circuit in the garage as well.

As long as you are not heating water(electric hot water heater) Cooking on the electric stove and running your electric dryer, and brewing at the same time you should be ok. You are dealing with potential energy. If you are not using it, it is not drawing from your main.

If you start to see lights dimming and your circuits start popping then you might want to rethink your design. I don't think you will have much issue though.

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Old 01-13-2010, 04:55 PM   #22
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Thanks guys. It was really a labor of love.

As for the BCS, I really like it so far. I wish that i could do some more intelligent things with it, like go to a website and get the outdoor air temperature (so i don't have to use another temp probe), but I like how easy the interface is. Also, i haven't figured out how to get the BK to automatically go from 100% on (to reach boil) to 67% to maintain boil. I do that manually now.

I live in a two family house, so one breaker is mine, and the other, my tenant. I am not too worried about taking 50 amps from a 100 amp panel. I have a gas hot water heater and gas stove. Also, I only have the HLT and BK on simultaneously for a very short period of time. Also, the most I am drawing at once is about 41 amps per leg. Worst case scenario is that i dont use the dryer while im brewing. Interestingly, i tend to use the washer because i dump as much of my rinse water into the washing machine, so as not to waste.

As for a build thread, i took pictures along the way, and this essentially was supposed to be my build thread. Much of what I did was learned here, so i didn't think i needed to post another "how to build a CFC" for example. Where i made deviations, I detailed that. I will go back and update my threads with links to the instructions that i used, to make it more comprehensive.

I don't know if I have it in me to put together a parts list Mostly because i do not want to know how much i spent on this. Tell you what. For you guys, I will do it and edit my threads.

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On Deck: Spruce APA, Chambord Fortified Chocolate Porter, Imperial IPA

Primary:
Primary:
Secondary: Belgian Dark Strong Ale
Conical:
Lagering: None
Kegged/Drinking: Cascade, Cent., Amarillo Pale Ale
Kegged/Drinking: Belgian Pale Ale (HG yeast for yeast cropping see above)
Bottled: ESB
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Old 01-13-2010, 04:58 PM   #23
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For future use for parts list

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~"A fine beer may be judged with only one sip, but it's better to be thoroughly sure.”

On Deck: Spruce APA, Chambord Fortified Chocolate Porter, Imperial IPA

Primary:
Primary:
Secondary: Belgian Dark Strong Ale
Conical:
Lagering: None
Kegged/Drinking: Cascade, Cent., Amarillo Pale Ale
Kegged/Drinking: Belgian Pale Ale (HG yeast for yeast cropping see above)
Bottled: ESB
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Old 01-13-2010, 05:00 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewmoor View Post
I have a 125amp service to my house. I have no worries going with 30amp circuit for my brew rig. I will be using the 20amp 120v circuit in the garage as well.

As long as you are not heating water(electric hot water heater) Cooking on the electric stove and running your electric dryer, and brewing at the same time you should be ok. You are dealing with potential energy. If you are not using it, it is not drawing from your main.

If you start to see lights dimming and your circuits start popping then you might want to rethink your design. I don't think you will have much issue though.
If I were to do this I would be retrofitting my natural gas fired electric RIMS brewery. I do 10 gallon batches and heat the HLT for sparge water while running the RIM heater. I don't think 30 amps would cut it. Besides, I am on thin ice as it is with the amount I spend on my brewery and brewing. If I ask my SWMBO not to use certain appliances while I brew, I will be most certainly be up chits creek.
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:36 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjlammer View Post
Also, i haven't figured out how to get the BK to automatically go from 100% on (to reach boil) to 67% to maintain boil. I do that manually now.
Great build! Setting up a process for a boil can be tricky. Mainly because its not easy to sense when the actual boil starts. You can use a temperature value, but that's not always reliable. I've even heard of some people using float switches to trip from the foam, but that sounds dangerous to me ..

I'm a fan of using a 2 state process. One state for heating to boil, and the other for the boil. To transition to the boil state, you can use a combination of temp value and user input. The temp value can be tuned as you run it a few times, to match your elevation. And if all else fails, use a Win (Web Input button) to be able to jump to the next state when you see bubbles. That way it'll go to the Boiling state when either of those conditions are true.

Code:
Boil Process
State0: Heat to Boil
  Boil Heat = 100% duty cycle
  Exit Cond0: when Temp=212 goto State1
  Exit Cond1: when Win0 Continue is on, goto State1
State1: Boiling
  Boil Heat = 67% duty cycle
  Start Boil Timer
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Last edited by eccsynd; 01-13-2010 at 07:38 PM. Reason: added code tags to process to get indents
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:48 PM   #26
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Since it is easy to calculate time to heat to a boil with a given volume and starting temp... I plan to do this.

Start volume 13 gallons
Start temp 165F
Time to boil at 100% is 9 minutes

I will have one state that is 100% output for 9 minutes (set by the timer)

This time will be the Exit Condition

The following state will be 60% output for 60 minutes

This will make Heating to Boil and the transition to Boil, automatic.

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Old 01-13-2010, 08:19 PM   #27
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I am speechless, sadly the only word I can come up with is 'baller.'

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Old 01-13-2010, 09:54 PM   #28
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Couldn't you also set it be 100% until a few degrees lower than boil and then switch to your 'maintain boil' duty cycle? The 'maintain boil' duty cycle should bring it the rest of the way to boiling. That would ensure that you don't boil earlier than you think, i.e. temp-based rather than time based.

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Old 01-14-2010, 02:51 AM   #29
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I think what i am going to do is this:

The next time I boil, i will note the temperature.

Then I will set up a program that incorporates a delay.

State 1: Boil Kettle on at 100%
Exit to State 2: when temp >= 212 ( really i will probably i will use my actual boil temp determined above)

State 2: Boil Kettle on at 100%
Exit to State 3: Timer counts down from 3 minutes (adjustable)

State 3: Boil Kettle at 60%
Exit Condition: Timer counts down from 60 minutes (adjustable)


The delay will account for any changing in boil temp based on specific gravity, barometric pressure, etc.

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~"A fine beer may be judged with only one sip, but it's better to be thoroughly sure.”

On Deck: Spruce APA, Chambord Fortified Chocolate Porter, Imperial IPA

Primary:
Primary:
Secondary: Belgian Dark Strong Ale
Conical:
Lagering: None
Kegged/Drinking: Cascade, Cent., Amarillo Pale Ale
Kegged/Drinking: Belgian Pale Ale (HG yeast for yeast cropping see above)
Bottled: ESB
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Old 01-14-2010, 03:11 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjlammer View Post
I live in a two family house, so one breaker is mine, and the other, my tenant. I am not too worried about taking 50 amps from a 100 amp panel. I have a gas hot water heater and gas stove. Also, I only have the HLT and BK on simultaneously for a very short period of time. Also, the most I am drawing at once is about 41 amps per leg. Worst case scenario is that i dont use the dryer while im brewing. Interestingly, i tend to use the washer because i dump as much of my rinse water into the washing machine, so as not to waste.
You are much braver than I. Your refrigerator takes 12 amps alone. Even with gas appliances, it won't take much to get to 75%-80% of your capacity when running two elements.
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