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Old 12-10-2012, 08:21 PM   #11
soccerRef
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I have looked at the electric brewery thread, read it almost start to finish at one point.. I don;t disagree that if cost was no object I would be there in a heart beat!

As much as the wife's on board ( and driving some of it) she is not on board to spend a ton on it... thats one reason why I was going the route I was thinking... I am finding 1-4 yr old stoves similar to mine in the kitchen for less than $100 ( one im looking at tonight is $50). I only have to run the gas line like 10 feet to get to the approx location of this area in my basement, so not much cost in black pipe or connections there. Im not looking to invest in any more pots right now, I have 2 currently, a 6 gallon, and 8 gallon I believe, which have worked great for all the extract and AG 5 gallon batches I have made so far... if I move to 10 gall batches I plan on making a lot of changes, keggles with built in heating elements, pumps, etc...

Maybe I should have included the fact that this area is going to be shared with the washer and dryer, so the idea is to not build too much into just a brewery since the next owner of the house most likely will not need that... but having tables/storage/water etc in a laundry area is never bad, and really the only element that would be out of place then would be the stove...

Most of the electric builds I have seen include deicated lines for the heating element, due to how much they draw, + the cost of the element, and again I don't want to cut up my pots... so it would have to be a heatstick style.. and most of them I see on here say they take 30 min to boil water anyways... I do that with my gas stove faster already!

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Old 12-10-2012, 08:22 PM   #12
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Part of my trick is that my hot water from my water tank is pretty hot... so It doesnt have too far to go, then another 60-70 degreees ( depending on temps) to get to boiling...
In general you should not ingest water from your hot water tank. There are multiple reasons for this.


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dealing with fermenting issue... I do realize 70 in the basement is too high for active fermentation.. I wasnt going to get into great detail there, but if my basement hits 70 its an extreme max temp... I dont think it got over 65 last year, and if it did it was only during the day and for a limited amount of time, so the ambient temp is a bucket fermenting most likely would not have risen much.. but it does get cold, in the 50's... which obv needs to come up a bit. I was planning on getting a temp controller that does both warm/cool anyways, so maybe I will just design it to work with the lager box I make, and have a PVC insulated pipe with a small PC fan move cold air over if necessary.
suit yourself, but strict temperature control made all the difference in the quality of my beers (as it has for many others). If you are spending the money, this would be priority #1 for me.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:24 PM   #13
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Wow. You may want to keep an eye on your wife's shoe/bag collection. Her "support" of your hobby may just be a ruse.

Kidding. Have fun with the build!!
LOL...without a doubt... that collection is already out of control... good thought though!
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:28 PM   #14
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In general you should not ingest water from your hot water tank. There are multiple reasons for this.




suit yourself, but strict temperature control made all the difference in the quality of my beers (as it has for many others). If you are spending the money, this would be priority #1 for me.
What do you mean ingesting water from my hot water tank? My entire life when I need to boil water I usually use hot water ( making tea/boiling pasta/ making jello/ etc etc.. )

I do understand temperature control is important, and I was not suggesting it wasnt. Honestly though my basement stays pretty constent during the seasons... living in Rochester NY when its below freezing outside for a few weeks the temp creeps down to the 50s in the basement.. thats why I figured an insulated box itself would help, I figured if it started actually getting to hot I would add the cooling ability, but like I said cooling has never really been a problem yet... just getting too cold!
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:42 PM   #15
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no self respecting chef will fill a pot for cooking with hot water. you start with cold water. hot water tanks contain all sorts of off flavors from sitting at that temp, stagnant for long periods of time with metals that corrode and rust.

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Old 12-10-2012, 11:20 PM   #16
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no self respecting chef will fill a pot for cooking with hot water. you start with cold water. hot water tanks contain all sorts of off flavors from sitting at that temp, stagnant for long periods of time with metals that corrode and rust.
I am in no way a chef, but have been cooking for years and am fairly good at it, and I have used hot or cold water from the tap of my house and never had an issue with either, no off flavors. I can see that being an issue if your pipes are rusted, but that will be in the pipes regardless of hot/cold. and would need to be fixed in general... Or if water sits for long periods of time somewhere, i.e pipes, water tank etc... but on a daily basis we use plenty of hot and cold water to keep water moving through the system so I can't believe that would be a problem.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:25 PM   #17
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you're adding water to a container with water in it... and then removing some from the bottom. there is still years of sediment, rust, etc in that container. you are supposed to periodically drain your water heater, but i assume everyone reading this thread has never done so.

from the EPA site: http://water.epa.gov/drink/info/lead/lead1.cfm

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The second step is to never cook with or consume water from the hot-water tap. Hot water dissolves more lead more quickly than cold water. So, do not use water taken from the hot tap for cooking or drinking, and especially not for making baby formula. (If you need hot water, draw water from the cold tap and heat it on the stove.) Use only thoroughly flushed water from the cold tap for any consumption.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:37 PM   #18
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you're adding water to a container with water in it... and then removing some from the bottom. there is still years of sediment, rust, etc in that container. you are supposed to periodically drain your water heater, but i assume everyone reading this thread has never done so.

from the EPA site: http://water.epa.gov/drink/info/lead/lead1.cfm
That link is mostly dealing with lead in the water, not off flavors... and every part of the water system in my house is lead free since it has been re done since I have lived here... so any lead that comes from the treatment plant ( mentioned in your article) would still be there hot or cold... I actually do drain my water heater 2x per year, but you are most likely correct most do not.

I drink water from my tap daily, it tastes fine etc... if it tasted "off" then I would be concerned that that may effect my beer... but if your tap water tastes fine, and is lead free, then I really don;t see a problem, but to each their own...
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:40 PM   #19
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sorry to threadjack. i now return you to the original programming.

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Old 12-10-2012, 11:46 PM   #20
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...i now return you to the original programming.
Speaking of the original programming... congrats on the go-ahead for the basement build! I look forward to seeing the results.

As a fellow Rochester brewer I can attest to how much it sucks to brew outside in our winters

I brewed one batch inside before I was banished to the unheated garage. Although to be fair the house smelled like boiled cheerios and hops for almost a week so I probably deserved the banishing .
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