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Old 02-08-2009, 10:53 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Seabee John View Post
Well, almost bare bones.... having the PID on my brew rig was cheating a little.... but the rest of it can be made very cheaply., all told, you could include the PID and SSR plus wire, switches and a panel box and do the whole thing for less than $200.00

The reason I called it bare bones is when you compare it to other ferment cabinets on this site... Mine becomes so ghetto, not even BierMuncher could stand to look at it.
Mine is bare bones, a cooler with some frozen water bottles and a couple of towels thrown on top.
I am not even sure what a PID is?
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Old 02-08-2009, 11:04 PM   #22
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Mine is bare bones, a cooler with some frozen water bottles and a couple of towels thrown on top.
I am not even sure what a PID is?
A PID (programmable interface device) Is a small computer that hooks up to a thermocouple for measuring temperature, then tells an SSR (solid state relay, or switch) to turn on or off based on the target temperature and the current temperature. I hook up my heating box to the SSR & PID.

So, If I want my ferment vessel to be at 68 deg F. I set the PID target to that temp. If the thermocouple measures a temp of 67 Deg F, the PID tells the SSR to switch "ON" and my heating box then begins to blow warm air into the cabinet. When the ferment vessel reaches 68 Deg F, the PID tells the SSR to switch "OFF" That way, I know my temps are right on the button, and I don't have to constantly watch it to maintain the temps needed. The same concept works for cooling, but you need to replace the heating box, with some sort of system for generating cool air.
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Where's my beer. I know I left it around here somewhere.....
Kegged/Drinking:Nihilistic Integrity - Black IPA, #1 BIAB pale ale, Bells Two Hearted - yes a keg of the real stuff
Kegged/Conditioning:Wally N Seans Braggot, Emerald Eyes - Irish Red, Atomic Tsunami - brown
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:02 AM   #23
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So I thought I'd post a little data I've collected so far:


A little help on deciphering the data....

Y Axis is Temp in F
X Axis is Date in M/D, Time in 24 hour format

The PID line is the temperature my thermocouple is reading in a carboy in the chamber of the cabinet

The Baseline is the temperature of my most reliable thermometer in a different carboy in the chamber... it should always read fairly close to the PID

The Chamber line is the temperature of the ambient air inside the chamber (showing the temperature disparity between air and liquid)

The Garage line is the temperature off of the thermostat on the wall of my garage (yes my garage is heated) showing the ambient temperature inside the garage. Hovering around 45 Deg F

The Target line is the temperature "target" of my PID... If the target temp is lower than the PID Line temp - the heating box is in an OFF state, if the target temperature is higher than the PID line temp, then the heating box is in an ON state.

If you note the changes in the Target line, you can see when I changed it and then compare the response time by looking at the PID data.

I'd like to hear from those of you with your own temp controlled fermentation (heat wise) and see how I stack up... if you have the data anyway.

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Mom was right. Never argue with an idiot. They just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

Where's my beer. I know I left it around here somewhere.....
Kegged/Drinking:Nihilistic Integrity - Black IPA, #1 BIAB pale ale, Bells Two Hearted - yes a keg of the real stuff
Kegged/Conditioning:Wally N Seans Braggot, Emerald Eyes - Irish Red, Atomic Tsunami - brown
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Old 02-09-2009, 06:19 AM   #24
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SeaBeeJohn; I would use what is posted below, these strip heaters come from low as 20 watts to 1,000 watts 120 volts and higher on 240 volts, 240 volt strips below 1,000 watts also.
We used them in MMC's all the time at work for moisture control. I as a Pack-Rat on old equipment removal would save a couple all the time. I used two 200 watt under my Iguana's cage bottom mounted below a 24" x 24" x 3/8" steel plate covered with sand on top with a 100*F thermo snap on the plate for the animals protection. It worked for over 12 years trouble free.
Check the charts on Pages 5, 6 strip heaters and 7 for disk heaters, they show what is available in wattage and voltage.

http://www.tempco.com/Catalog/Sectio...ca%20Strip.pdf

They can be used many for different things as long as the terminals are out of harms way or little fingers. I would use one instead of lamps with your computer fan but add a 120*F thermo snap safety switch inside that amo box. JMO's on what has worked for me in the past with these strip heaters. Free parts make for fun projects.

BierMuncher still holds the trophy for the best keggle top cut job.
He must hold the "Tim the tool man Taylor stitch award". Did anyone ever see what the lid itself looked like after that cut out?

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Old 02-09-2009, 12:13 PM   #25
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SeaBeeJohn; I would use what is posted below, these strip heaters come from low as 20 watts to 1,000 watts 120 volts and higher on 240 volts, 240 volt strips below 1,000 watts also.
We used them in MMC's all the time at work for moisture control. I as a Pack-Rat on old equipment removal would save a couple all the time.

http://www.tempco.com/Catalog/Sectio...ca%20Strip.pdf
Sounds like a great idea... got a few laying around you can just fedex over?

They look a little on the expensive side... I had been using a heating pad, but it was only 6 watts.... I went to go find a different one, and they were all over 50 bucks.
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Mom was right. Never argue with an idiot. They just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

Where's my beer. I know I left it around here somewhere.....
Kegged/Drinking:Nihilistic Integrity - Black IPA, #1 BIAB pale ale, Bells Two Hearted - yes a keg of the real stuff
Kegged/Conditioning:Wally N Seans Braggot, Emerald Eyes - Irish Red, Atomic Tsunami - brown
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Old 02-09-2009, 06:35 PM   #26
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More data to relate.

I wanted to find out the BTU output of my little heating box so I did a little digging

As it turns out, Watts multiplied by (5.689E-2) gives you BTU's/Minute

So, my 2 (100 Watt) lightbulbs = 200Watts(5.689E-2)=11.387 BTU's/Minute

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Originally Posted by jmendez29 View Post
Mom was right. Never argue with an idiot. They just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

Where's my beer. I know I left it around here somewhere.....
Kegged/Drinking:Nihilistic Integrity - Black IPA, #1 BIAB pale ale, Bells Two Hearted - yes a keg of the real stuff
Kegged/Conditioning:Wally N Seans Braggot, Emerald Eyes - Irish Red, Atomic Tsunami - brown
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Old 06-03-2009, 04:50 PM   #27
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Bump. Hey John this is epic. I love the massive size of this thing and living in montana for a while i know how cold things can get. Only thing im wondering about is your warm air suply is at the top...Since warm air rises wouldnt you want them the other way around? Warm air comes out top and as it gets colder sinks and gets sucked up at the bottom through the cold intake and heated going back out the top?

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Old 06-03-2009, 05:34 PM   #28
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This is SCHWEEET...the ONLY thing I may have done differently is placed the warm air supply lines coming into one SIDE of the chamber (not back) and have the cold air return on the opposite SIDE so that they are at opposite ends for a better exchange of air. That is awesome temp control though

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Old 06-03-2009, 09:37 PM   #29
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Bump. Hey John this is epic. I love the massive size of this thing and living in montana for a while i know how cold things can get. Only thing im wondering about is your warm air suply is at the top...Since warm air rises wouldnt you want them the other way around? Warm air comes out top and as it gets colder sinks and gets sucked up at the bottom through the cold intake and heated going back out the top?
I could have done it either way... It's fan driven so it has enough flow that it completely turns the volume over in about 8 minutes... so convection really isn't a factor. All I'd need to do to swap the cold and hot would be to change the polarity on the fan power... it's DC so it will run in either direction...
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Originally Posted by jmendez29 View Post
Mom was right. Never argue with an idiot. They just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

Where's my beer. I know I left it around here somewhere.....
Kegged/Drinking:Nihilistic Integrity - Black IPA, #1 BIAB pale ale, Bells Two Hearted - yes a keg of the real stuff
Kegged/Conditioning:Wally N Seans Braggot, Emerald Eyes - Irish Red, Atomic Tsunami - brown
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Old 08-31-2009, 12:42 AM   #30
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well there I was.... picking my 2nd year hops.... I questioned: "where to dry them???"



then came the answer! impromptu elevated supports made from brick,



resize the screen I used last year, unhook the cold air return from my heat box and bingo.... a hops dryer!



Dried my cascades (3lbs wet) down to 13.5 OZ dry in less than 24 hours

runs about 110 deg F.

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Originally Posted by jmendez29 View Post
Mom was right. Never argue with an idiot. They just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

Where's my beer. I know I left it around here somewhere.....
Kegged/Drinking:Nihilistic Integrity - Black IPA, #1 BIAB pale ale, Bells Two Hearted - yes a keg of the real stuff
Kegged/Conditioning:Wally N Seans Braggot, Emerald Eyes - Irish Red, Atomic Tsunami - brown
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