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11-03-2009, 10:57 PM
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#1
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← Huge Member →
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: ☼ Clearwater, FL ☼
Posts: 9,722
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Auber PID SYL-2352 undocumented bug
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At least I assume it is undocumented.
For anyone who is using the PID in manual mode, the lowest cycle time (the "t" variable) is 2, not 0.5 seconds as described in their current datasheet.
Anything lower than 2 will cause problems. I can verify this, and it was verified by someone there at Auber. I know that others have lowered their Proportional variable to 0 or 1, and that corrected the problem for them but this did nothing for me and really screwed up the thing when I went back to auto mode!
The Auber guy even said that if you set it to "1" (second), it might give you 100 seconds. Weird, but I am sure I saw this. I have been looking at the Out signals on a scope.
BTW, I love this thing, and 2 second cycle is no problem at all.
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Nag Champa FTW. Mmmm.
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11-03-2009, 11:59 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New Milford, CT
Posts: 1,677
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I use 2 seconds. Works like a charm...
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Mead Lane Brewing
The liver is evil and must be punished
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11-04-2009, 12:39 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 275
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I have never ventured from Auto mode! Now, I'm going to have to look. Thanks passedpawn, now I have more work to do. :-(
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11-04-2009, 02:30 AM
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#4
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You don't want to use manual mode unless you want to ignore your temperature sensing device. Manual mode allows you to select a "power level", sort of like a microwave, where the output cycles on and off.
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Nag Champa FTW. Mmmm.
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11-04-2009, 03:05 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,657
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Undocumented feature.
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11-04-2009, 12:13 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New Milford, CT
Posts: 1,677
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Manual mode is for maintaining a steady boil...
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Mead Lane Brewing
The liver is evil and must be punished
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11-04-2009, 12:16 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by passedpawn
You don't want to use manual mode unless you want to ignore your temperature sensing device. Manual mode allows you to select a "power level", sort of like a microwave, where the output cycles on and off.
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I did that on accident by originally putting a valve in between the heating element and the sensor. Bad mojo! The element got hot enough to melt silver solder holding the copper together.
Needless to say, that particular design " feature" was reconsidered. The heating element was replaced and the temperature sensor was relocated to a more [PUN] sensable [/PUN] location. 
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11-06-2009, 12:37 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poobah58
Manual mode is for maintaining a steady boil...
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yep... I should have mentioned that.
I am using auto for the HLT, manual for boil. I am also trying to do this with one PID. Not to save money, but because I can't drive more than one heating element at a time anyway, so it seemed unnecessary to use 2 PIDs.
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Nag Champa FTW. Mmmm.
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11-06-2009, 05:18 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Ankeny, IA
Posts: 170
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passedpawn, try this.
Set your Proportional Constant to 1 (it's initial setting is 500). You should then be able to set the 't' (Cycle rate) to 1. Maybe you've already tried this, but it worked for me.
drost
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Last edited by drost; 11-06-2009 at 05:19 PM.
Reason: additional info.
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11-06-2009, 06:04 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drost
passedpawn, try this.
Set your Proportional Constant to 1 (it's initial setting is 500). You should then be able to set the 't' (Cycle rate) to 1. Maybe you've already tried this, but it worked for me.
drost
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yea, that worked, but that made the auto mode totally useless. If I had 2 PIDs and could leave one on manual, I'd change the P as you describe.
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Nag Champa FTW. Mmmm.
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