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Old 12-12-2012, 02:25 PM   #21
BetterSense
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I like the bend of copper coming out of the kettle. It provides a nice handle with which you can easily pull it out of your kettle without dipping your hands in your wort. I'm sure you can do that just by pulling the silicone HOSE, but i imagine it's bashing against the side of your kettle as it comes out, not that that matters.
The secret is to drop the outlet hose below the level of the kettle before you disconnect the water, and let most of the water siphon out of the IC before you try to lift it (I also blow on the other hose because I'm impatient). It's a lot lighter that way.

Of course, you should always make sure the IC is empty before you lower it into the boiling wort, because if it has water in it, it could flash-boil and shoot hot water or steam out of the ends, or even burst. Unlikely because the boiling point of wort is lower than water, but good practice anyway.
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:29 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by barrooze View Post

I believe this is your opinion and not a true standard. It appears the difference is how the material is measured (ID vs OD) and has nothing to do with rigidity.

And I know, don't believe everything you read on Wikipedia, but I love the title of the "Hose" article...
Wikipedia actually agrees with me

Quote:
The terms "pipe" and "tube" are almost interchangeable, although minor distinctions exist — generally, a tube has tighter engineering requirements than a pipe. Both pipe and tube imply a level of rigidity and permanence, whereas a hose is usually portable and flexible.
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:34 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by BetterSense View Post
I built my 50 foot 1/2" IC with tubing from that company. It was a competitive price, but I didn't buy one of their kits, because I don't see the point of the fancy fittings. I just use bare copper and push silicone tubing over it.
I got a similar kit from my LHBS that did not include the compression fittings, just worm gear clamps to tighten the hose like you describe.

It was a miserable failure. Leaked like crazy. I went out and bought the fittings and it's all better. Well, almost---one downside to the compression fittings is that they have a much smaller inside diameter than the tube/hose they attach to. If I turn the water up too high, I get a bit of leaking on the hose nipple side. But I've had zero leaking on the compression side.

The kit worked well for me. One thing I would recommend is obtaining a proper tube bender for the small-radius bends. Wrapping it by hand around a form to make most of the turns is fine, but one can very easily crush the tubing or, worse, hyperextend one's thumb trying to make the small-radius bends at the ends. And trust me, the trip to urgent care is far more expensive than a tube bender.
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