Newest Threads

johnlvs2run · 04-07-2012, 11:44 PM

Thanks much for the helpful information!

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomSD

Yes, most outlets can be split. The ones that can be split have a tab that can be removed (usually broken off with a pair of needle nose pliers) to split the outlets.

This one has tabs on both sides. Do I break off both of them?

Quote:

Originally Posted by JuanMoore

An "old work" box mounts by clamping on to the drywall rather than being nailed to a stud, so it can be mounted however/wherever you want. As mentioned, you'll just need to check that it's deep enough for the controller. Even with the standard new work boxes you can just run a couple of screws through the box and into the stud to secure it. IMO the two nails aren't enough support for a 4 gang box anyways, so I usually put a piece of blocking in on the other side and secure it with screws.

This is great, will make it easier to find a good box.

**JuanMoore** · 04-07-2012, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnlvs2run

This one has tabs on both sides. Do I break off both of them?

In most cases you'd only break the tab on the hot side (gold screws). That way you only need to run one neutral to the outlet to serve both the top and bottom.

**maltoftheearth** · 04-30-2012, 12:27 AM

Well, my controller now works great on "cool" and "always on" but is completely dead on "heat".

Guess which one I need badly? That's right, I bottled today and have no place above 70F to store these beers.

I removed and tested all the connections and the outlet itself. No problems. Looks like the controller couldn't take the heat. Any suggestions for an American made version that I can get my hands on quickly? I am not waiting 2 weeks for another one of these crappy controllers to get here from China.

**JuanMoore** · 04-30-2012, 02:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maltoftheearth

Well, my controller now works great on "cool" and "always on" but is completely dead on "heat".

Guess which one I need badly? That's right, I bottled today and have no place above 70F to store these beers.

I removed and tested all the connections and the outlet itself. No problems. Looks like the controller couldn't take the heat. Any suggestions for an American made version that I can get my hands on quickly? I am not waiting 2 weeks for another one of these crappy controllers to get here from China.

Are you sure it's wired right? How many recepticles do you have, because heat, cool, and always hot would require more than one duplex outlet. For a higher end controller that doesn't ship from China, the title of this thread would be a good choice. There are several other love models that would also work for you.

**TomSD** · 04-30-2012, 03:33 PM

Check the wattage of your heating element and the controller you are using. I cooked the heat side of one of mine when a switch shorted out. The rest of it works great but the heat is toast. That one is going to be for my keezer whenever I get around to actually wiring it up.

Fastest replacement though? Not sure. I've always used the Loves but have never heard of any problems with the other brands. You would probably get a Love controller shipped to you faster than an overseas model though.

**Hang Glider** · 04-30-2012, 03:35 PM

just an FYI - on the Love TSS2, the box says "made in Spain"...

I had similar problems but re-read Claudius' explanation and I had some of the settings wrong. Works like a champ now.

**maltoftheearth** · 05-01-2012, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JuanMoore

Are you sure it's wired right? How many recepticles do you have, because heat, cool, and always hot would require more than one duplex outlet. For a higher end controller that doesn't ship from China, the title of this thread would be a good choice. There are several other love models that would also work for you.

It is wired correctly, the heat receptacle worked the first time I used it. I'll check the wattage but will be really disappointed if I have to ditch my ceramic iguana heating bulb.

ClaudiusB · 05-01-2012, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maltoftheearth

It is wired correctly, the heat receptacle worked the first time I used it. I'll check the wattage but will be really disappointed if I have to ditch my ceramic iguana heating bulb.

Post your parameters before you replace the controller.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

**HBrew71** · 06-17-2012, 02:38 PM

Subscribed

DSmith · 07-15-2012, 07:42 PM

Here's a pic of my Love TSS2 with 10' stainless steel tip probe. The outlets on the 2 relays are fused to protect the controller. The switches are a fancy way of unplugging the chest freezer or 40W aquarium heating pad to prevent cycling them if not wanted without changing an internal parameter or to prevent a mistake from a bad parameter setting.

I have a Johnson A419 and have trended data showing that 3F temperature variations is the tightest control possible with the controller probe insulated-over on the outside of the fermenter.

I've trended data with the TSS2 and it can match the A419 control response and also improve control to about 1.2F temperature variations with the controller probe insulated-over on the outside of the carboy. The TSS2 has a lot better program options and seeing the decimal point temperature read-out on the display is really handy.

I've learned that when my freezer turns off after a cycle, the fermenter temperature drops another 1F no matter how big the differential is set. I've found it best to set the cooling differential to 0.5F to keep tight control (freezer cycles about every 1-2 hours) and increase it to 2F-3F when temperature fluctuations don't matter (freezer gets cycled about every 4-10 hours).