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Old 11-11-2009, 11:53 AM   #1
MikeRLynch
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Default Another 1 bbl brewer

Ok, I think we need to start a nanobrewery group here so we can all swap info. It's looking like at least half a dozen people are going 55+ gallons.

My friends and I all went in on some very tasty ss tanks recently, 4 of the 60 gal ones pictured below, and one 120 gallon big sonofabitch. They're all on casters, (for now) and all have 2 inch triclover ballvalve drains on the bottom.

Our issue is that every opening in on the floor of the tank, not the side. Therefore we need ideas on how to do a false bottom with that kind of setup. Ideas? We're looking for both a hop filter for the BK and a regular bottom for the mash tun.

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Old 11-11-2009, 12:26 PM   #3
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Excuse the poor dumb aussie in the corner but how many US gallons or litres is a BBL?

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Old 11-11-2009, 12:28 PM   #4
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Excuse the poor dumb aussie in the corner but how many US gallons or litres is a BBL?
31 gallons
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Old 11-11-2009, 12:45 PM   #5
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have jaybird make you a false bottom. He has a thread in the vendor section

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Old 11-11-2009, 12:53 PM   #6
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31 gallons
Sweet that means I get to join the club too!
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Last edited by ausdb; 11-12-2009 at 07:52 AM. Reason: Sorry for gate crashing your thread :-)
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Old 11-11-2009, 01:14 PM   #7
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Do you have pictures of the inside and bottom?
Not yet, that pic is from the auction where we bought it. I will have a complete breakdown of our tanks, fittings, and brewing space by the weekend. We're looking to go all electric as well (my brewing partner is a master electrician) so any tips or advice along those lines is welcome as well.

I'll go check jaybird out right now.
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Old 11-11-2009, 01:39 PM   #8
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It shouldn't be that difficult. Actually having the tank output at the bottom is an advantage because you will be able to retrieve every bit of wort possible. The other advantage is that you do not need a foldable false bottom. The foldable false bottom is needed to navigate around the couplings protruding through the side of the vessel when installing or removing the false bottom. The false bottom in your case can be pulled straight out of the vessel. You could purchase a piece of stainless steel preforated sheet and cut a circle out of the sheet slightly smaller than the diameter of the inside of your vessel. The screen can be suspended of the bottom of the tank in a number of ways, the most simple being stainless steel carriage bolts. Because your outputs are at the bottom, there is no need for a hole in the screen for a dip tube. This is another advantage of the outputs at the bottom.

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Old 11-11-2009, 02:03 PM   #9
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Thanks Sawdustguy, another little bonus is that the bottom of each tank is slightly graded towards the valve, so all the liquid will run to the output.

I guess my concern rests more on the boil kettle side than the mash side. To cool it, we're thinking of getting a plate chiller. I assume we will have to recirculate the cooled wort back into the kettle to acheive a whirlpool, then drain off into the fermentor when the whole volume is to temp. I'm worried that the compacted hops and trub will cover the entire bottom, and be sucked through the screen (or worse, clog).

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Old 11-11-2009, 02:29 PM   #10
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I agree, we need a new lobby on here called "nanobrewtalk.com"! Take it from me - you're in for an adventure! Lots of ways to skin this cat, thus no one here has the definitive answer to all your questions. That being said, there are lots of great ideas in any of these nano brewery threads.

Check out my thread for 55 gallon false bottom ideas. Could be helpful to you. I get mine from Jaybird today and I'll update how it all fits.


http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/55-gal-drum-mash-tun-false-bottom-ideas-138941/


Regarding the chiller, get the biggest you can find. Its just a matter of time to cool, so it really depends on how long you're willing to allow your wort to cool. I found a big boy on ebay.

Also, I might suggest a side drain for your kettle, just above the bottom. No sense in whirlpooling if you drain out the bottom through a screen. Whirlpooling is effective for side draining kettles, because the perimeter of the vessel has the least amount of solids after the whirlpool.

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