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Old 10-05-2013, 07:36 PM   #11
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I guess I should've read more closely. Straight thread was already mentioned by Poobah.
Anyway. I think it will work.

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Old 10-06-2013, 03:06 PM   #12
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Hey Coop, I just got my heating element and as expected it doesn't fit in the back. I'd love to borrow a tap to try to re-thread. Thanks for offering! It is indeed a standard 1" heating element. Like you said I think as long as the pitch is the same the gasket will prevent any leaks. Let me know!

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Old 10-06-2013, 03:46 PM   #13
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It will work if you get a 1" NPS tap. You can find them for < $50 on eBay if you are patient.

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Old 10-06-2013, 07:05 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carkom
Hey Coop, I just got my heating element and as expected it doesn't fit in the back. I'd love to borrow a tap to try to re-thread. Thanks for offering! It is indeed a standard 1" heating element. Like you said I think as long as the pitch is the same the gasket will prevent any leaks. Let me know!
PM sent.
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Old 10-06-2013, 09:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehaun View Post
It will work if you get a 1" NPS tap. You can find them for < $50 on eBay if you are patient.

or take it to a machine shop and have them do it

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Old 10-08-2013, 05:45 PM   #16
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Ummmmm,....... buy a plug sans the threaded hole, and drill and tap in the direction you wish the "taper" to face.

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Old 10-08-2013, 05:48 PM   #17
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You can still use a 1" NPT tap and just run it all the way through from the back. I would agree that taking it to a shop would be the most cost effective way because a cheap tap isn't going to cut it. You'll spend $25 on a cheap tap, ruin it, and then spend another $25 paying someone to do it.

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Old 10-10-2013, 11:02 PM   #18
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So Coop sent me a tap he had at his shop so I could give the re-tapping a shot. Worked great! Took about 20 mins of back and forth turning, plenty of anti-seize paste and a good amount of muscle for the last couple turns but I think I"ve got a working product. Pics below!

Obviously not everyone will be able to get a tap to widen the back of the hex nut. My only suggestion would be to listen to advice already given and find a local machinist and see if you can borrow a 1" tap or bribe him with homebrew to do it himself, it does only take about 15 minutes. Most small machine shops are pretty cool, found a guy in my town who homebrews himself so he's always willing to help with homebrew projects.

Next steps are to check for leaks then wiring! I'll plug it into my panel which is GFCI protected. Ultimately I'd like to connect a GFCI cord so others can borrow it without any special electrical connections or wiring.


Silicone O-Ring and tape


Installed and ready to screw in. Used a little keg lube on the o-ring.


The connection once screwed in.


A look from the opposite side


Got the holder all put together and wrenched down really tight. Ready to start testing!

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Old 10-11-2013, 01:45 AM   #19
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That looks great! I'm looking forward to hearing how well it performs.

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Old 10-18-2013, 02:44 PM   #20
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Got it leak tested, wired, and tested working. I'll use it in my brew day tomorrow for a full brew test but it seems great! Here's some final pics.

I drilled a hole in the top elbow for the ground plug, tightened it down with a machine screw and cut off the end that popped out the outside.


This is the final product. I went with a regular extension cord for the plug, you can see the cord grip strain relief I used here.


To make it GFCI protected I bought this at HD for about $12. This way all my buddies that brew can borrow the heatstick if they need it.


Test run - working great!

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