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Old 02-28-2013, 03:39 PM   #21
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Sweet build.



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Old 03-02-2013, 08:26 PM   #22
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I do see the merits of a good heat stick now thanks. One thing that strikes me is just how overly bulky the whole assembly is. I realize that the hex of an element requires 2" TC at least where it mounts, but it would be cool to connect to a length of 1/2" stainless tubing right after that. Afterall, once you have the element connection water tight, you just need a waterproof sheath for the wire and a handle. I promised my wife I wouldn't make any new products for a while but the opportunity... it burns!



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Old 03-02-2013, 09:12 PM   #23
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I have 2 heatsticks, no where close to the quality of yours. I have thought about mounting in the kettle, but I love brewing outside with propane when the weather is nice.

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Old 04-10-2013, 02:07 PM   #24
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Interesting. What was your process to check for leaks?

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Old 04-11-2013, 02:30 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumstigedy View Post
Interesting. What was your process to check for leaks?
That is very easy with this setup. You can easily open any clamp and simply look inside and/or the end-cap w/ strain relief from StillDragon has a slit cut in it and can hold the unit upside down and see if any fluid comes out. Lastly the unit is only plugged into receptacles with GFI. If it leaks, you will quickly know! LOL

Hope this helps,
Robert
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Old 04-11-2013, 04:09 PM   #26
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Here is the Tri-Clamp parts I ordered from StillDragon:
Element Guard Kit
Element Adapter
2" TC Pipe x 20"
2" 90 degree Elbow (pic above show 2 but second was sent by mistake)
(2) 2" Clamps (EGK above comes with 1)
(5) 2" Silicone Gaskets (CHEAP ,so I have a few extras)
Pipe Holder 2" $6 (so I can hang/hook on kettle edge)

-----
Oh course you will also need:
Water heat element: I bought the Camco 02853 ULWD 120v 1500w since I only have a 20amp circuit.
Electric/appliance cord: I got 12/3 cord cut to length at Home Depot.
Male Plug (I bought a 15amp from Home Depot)

Robert
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Is that the same element in post #1 and post #5? The second one looks much shorter. Have you had any issues with the elements them selves? Would you recommend the same element? THanks
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:46 PM   #27
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I was planning on just soldering a screw to the inside of the 90 elbow for a grounding lug. Is that what you did or did figure something better?

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Old 04-16-2013, 07:09 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpartyParty View Post
Is that the same element in post #1 and post #5? The second one looks much shorter. Have you had any issues with the elements them selves? Would you recommend the same element? THanks
Post #1 was just a mockup of my 'heatstick' idea. Post #5 is the element that I actually use. Yes, it's much shorter as the other would have been too long to fit into my Boil kettle and/or Mashtun (HD/Rubbermaid cooler). Even though this element is only a 120v 1500W ULWD, I have been very happy with it's performance. So yes I would recommend it, especially if there is a space issue and/or only have a 15-20amp circuit.

Robert
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:11 PM   #29
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I was planning on just soldering a screw to the inside of the 90 elbow for a grounding lug. Is that what you did or did figure something better?
That might work but the StillDragon Element Guard Kit includes an end-cap with a threaded ground lug.

Robert
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Old 07-23-2013, 08:28 PM   #30
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I just built this heatstick (thanks for the idea), but I have a couple questions and/or concerns.

1. I gather that you didn't encapsulate the electrical connections to the element. Is this true? I am thinking that I probably will encapsulate just for added piece of mind.

2. I leak tested overnight and noticed the base that the element goes through is now covered in rust. Have you experienced this problem?





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