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PaulHilgeman · 12-20-2010, 08:39 PM

Anyone ever use 80/20 Aluminum Extrusions to build a brew stand? I would be doing a 10 gal 2-vessel system (Tankless HLT, MT and BK) just in a single tier.

Did you use the 1010, or the 1515 stuff? I know that this stuff is pretty strong, and my overall span would be shorter than most peoples, but I am unsure if the 1010 would be strong enough.

I'd love to see some pictures too.

Thanks.

Sawdustguy · 12-20-2010, 08:57 PM

This has been discussed many times before. Do a search.

PaulHilgeman · 12-20-2010, 10:07 PM

are there other terms that this stuff goes by? 80/20 yeilds little to nothing on the google or regular search...

EarthBound · 12-21-2010, 02:56 AM

Type in "8020" in the box at the very top right corner of this window, in the head of the mug. I look forward to seeing a sketchup of your design soon.

ClaudiusB · 12-21-2010, 03:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaulHilgeman

Anyone ever use 80/20 Aluminum Extrusions to build a brew stand? I would be doing a 10 gal 2-vessel system (Tankless HLT, MT and BK) just in a single tier.

Did you use the 1010, or the 1515 stuff? I know that this stuff is pretty strong, and my overall span would be shorter than most peoples, but I am unsure if the 1010 would be strong enough.

I'd love to see some pictures too.

Thanks.

Hers is a perfect example made by Irrenarzt Post #9
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/aluminum-brewery-stand-feasibility-172198/

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/any-reason-not-use-80-20-my-brew-rig-154657/
For my set-up I used 15/15 and 15/30 only.

10/10 is used for small stuff only, like stir plates, etc.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

PaulHilgeman · 12-22-2010, 08:44 PM

I didnt realize that was a common slang term in Germany too!

PaulHilgeman · 12-23-2010, 06:58 PM

Alright here is the sketch-up:

I will be using the 1010 style 1" square. a single piece of it on a 24" span can support 250lbs with only a 1 inch deflection.

Give me some feedback if you dont mind, The space for the kettle is 24" wide and nice and low for easy viewing. The height of the mash tun will be about table height off of the ground, so that is what I am used to. In the area below the mash tun will be all of the controls for the pump, tankless heater, RIMS PID and switch, and I will try to plumb all of the LP up there for the BK and Flash Boiler.

I plan to make it the opening in the rear large enough for the propane tank to slide in and out.

EarthBound · 12-23-2010, 08:50 PM

I can't see your sketch-up for some reason, and my imagination can only do so much.

PaulHilgeman · 12-23-2010, 08:55 PM

Check my gallery

Red Clay · 12-23-2010, 10:48 PM

"Only" one inches deflection? That seems like a lot to me. It's a slope of 1" per 12", which is around an 8% slope, right? An 8% slope is pretty visible, at the least. Of course, you might not have 250 lbs loaded on it (14 gallons => ~115lbs, plus the equipment at say 40 lbs?) If you get any significant heating of that beam, it will start to de-rate as well.

You might be okay. Just do your math to figure out what you max load will be during the boil. Then decide if you can live with that level of deflection.

I don't know what the cost implications are, but if it were me I'd consider going with the 1020 stuff to get more support across that span. But, then again, 'over engineer' is my middle name!

(EDIT: Alternately, a single support in the middle of that span that ties in the lower beam would add a ton of rigidity. I bet your 250 lbs deflection is less than 1/4" if you tie those together. Also, I'd take the rear rail down to the lower beam as well.)