57 gallon electric HLT build - Page 5

stevehaun · 12-31-2009, 05:19 PM

Brewbeemer: I think 11,000 watts that will work great for you. My system started out as a 15 gallon system. My BK was a 25 gallon megapot. 9000 watts was more than enough for great mash temp control via the HERMS and more than enough power for the boil. I ran the PID at 65% once I reached the boil. It was all good until I found the 55 gallon SS drum...

**BrewBeemer** · 12-31-2009, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevehaun

Brewbeemer: I think 11,000 watts that will work great for you. My system started out as a 15 gallon system. My BK was a 25 gallon megapot. 9000 watts was more than enough for great mash temp control via the HERMS and more than enough power for the boil. I ran the PID at 65% once I reached the boil. It was all good until I found the 55 gallon SS drum...

Oops, going bigger again your heading to 55 gallons, time to increase the wattage for heating again.
My next build of 25 gallons again but in stainless is still on hold due to reasons I can not control (back surgeries) but i'm happy with the past results off the quick and dirty 25 gallon POS system I cobbled together as a test model now knowing it will work later in stainless. My maximum of three corny's filled after the ferment is as large as I will ever need for my personal use or with help of few friends drinking plus the ability for smaller batches also. Money, wifey and storage area are another factor should I go larger again. With well water I heated the HLT w/11KW until near set temp, switched to the MLT at 11KW until near strike temp then split 5.5KW to the HLT and MLT to bring up the last couple of degrees. This way i'm only at 11KW at any given time not counting the pump, controller and any panel control lights. Same with the Boil, start with 11KW, near the boil temp zone switch over to one 5.5KW element and control the boil rate. One time in the cold without any insulation on the Boil keggle I had to run one 5.5KW on full time with the boil controlled by the second element. Next time the BCS 460 will control both boil elements at the same time on the future build that's on hold for now. With the large free SOOW cords and materials it's a "why not" thing besides I hate slow heating times.

**BrewBeemer** · 12-31-2009, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Beere

BP,

did you ever get around to doing this? If so, how many heating elements did you use? Is is sufficient? etc, etc..

I should be breaking ground on the new brewery in the next two weeks and am trying to figure out if I want to fire the HLT with natural gas or do it electric. The brewery will have its own 200-amp breaker, so I'd have plenty of power..

Wow, ya got 200 amps to play with, congrats. I once removed the meter and jumpered the buss with my service change clips (years ago as a wireman) and fed my Tig welder. With a total of the house load plus the welder at 131 amps alone the service drop was smoldering all the way to the pig on the pole across the street. Yup service change was needed from 100 to 200 amp plus the larger service drop for me.
John, depending on how many gallons your next brewery system will be I would jump instantly to electric heating you have the HP or wattage to do it. NG or Propane (Pro-Pain in the AZZ) are not a consideration at $2.79 a gallon or $22.95 for 3 1/2 gallons for a Blue Rino pro-pain bottle exchange. At $6.56 a gallon no thanks, used just for the BBQ only as I refill the old style 5 gallon bottles off my friends 250 gallon tank at his ranch. I have a gas line in the patio, again capped off rather have electric. JMO.