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**Bobby_M** · 04-20-2012, 04:51 AM

Yeah, copper is cake and I have no issue with .035 stainless either.

**StainlessBrewing** · 04-20-2012, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobby_M

I have a similar bender and I get buckling with .028, nevermind .020. It's a 3" radius mandrel. What's your secret?

No secret really. What bender are you using? If it's not the bender you're using it could be the tubing manufacturer. Sometimes the tube itself is just not as rigid or made as well as others. I've had problems threading sch80 smls SS pipe which you would think would be easier than because of the heavy wall thickness but the threads would just chip or chunk out. Tried a different brand...no problems. Welded and seamless may make a difference to. Possibly where the weld is located when you're bending it.

**CidahMastah** · 04-20-2012, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StainlessBrewing

If it's not the bender you're using it could be the tubing manufacturer.

so just to be clear though, you have actually used the bender on the 304 .020 stainless tubing from grainger that people have been buying (referenced through out the thread). Sounds like Bobby is saying he has tried it with little success (albeit with a different bender and different tubing).

**Pitbull1963** · 04-20-2012, 02:22 PM

Just wanted to say thanks to V Twin. I built your jig and it worked great. Recoiled my stainless steel coil to fit my keggle.

**StainlessBrewing** · 04-20-2012, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CidahMastah

so just to be clear though, you have actually used the bender on the 304 .020 stainless tubing from grainger that people have been buying (referenced through out the thread). Sounds like Bobby is saying he has tried it with little success (albeit with a different bender and different tubing).

That's correct. I would bend a piece if I had one in stock but it's not as common and more expensive because of that. .035 is standard. It also depends if you're bending straight or coiled tubing (beverage line) which is typically softer for bending applications without kinking. A picture below shows the most prone spot that I can imagine where the kink might occur. A small indent in the tube is common but has never been as far as kinking or collapsing. After that circled spot, there really is no room for the tube to do anything other than stretch because of the dies. This is all just from experience with what I've had.

By zjosey at 2012-04-20

**CidahMastah** · 04-20-2012, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StainlessBrewing

That's correct. I would bend a piece if I had one in stock but it's not as common and more expensive because of that. .035 is standard. It also depends if you're bending straight or coiled tubing (beverage line) which is typically softer for bending applications without kinking. A picture below shows the most prone spot that I can imagine where the kink might occur. A small indent in the tube is common but has never been as far as kinking or collapsing. After that circled spot, there really is no room for the tube to do anything other than stretch because of the dies. This is all just from experience with what I've had.

Thanks for the info. You say the .035 is more common and less expensive - I haven't seen roles of .035 for less than .020. I of course am referring to coiled tubing.

**StainlessBrewing** · 04-20-2012, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CidahMastah

Thanks for the info. You say the .035 is more common and less expensive - I haven't seen roles of .035 for less than .020. I of course am referring to coiled tubing.

It all depends on who you're buying it from.

**forcabrew** · 04-28-2012, 03:46 PM

going to attempt to install my 25ft herms coil today. it is 304 stainless steel from nybrewsupply that was coiled to approximately 10 inches in diameter. should i install the coil with the zip ties on or should i remove the zip ties and all the coil to expand before i start drilling hoes? I'm not sure if once the coil is installed with zip ties and then i cut them off if the fittings are strong enough to keep the coil in place or if the coil would expand. I'm worried about expansion as i don't want the coil to put pressure on my heating element.. i did remove the zip ties to see what would happen and the coil almost doubled in height then i immediately zip tied it back together. E-Herms build. any help would be appreciated. thanks all

psbuckland · 04-28-2012, 03:55 PM

You'll be fine to cut them now. It will expand very little. Do you have couplers welded or are you going weldless?

S-

**Bobby_M** · 04-28-2012, 03:59 PM

I wonder if there is a way, while manipulating the coil through the three-roller device, to encourage a tighter helix.