2P-Twent-E: the new Brouwerij Boerderij Kabouter

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Boerderij_Kabouter

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Location
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For those who know me here and have followed some of my various ideas, blogs, threads, and other rants/comment/mumblings dealing with homebreweries, you will know I used to be building toward this:

Brewery1.png

that thread can be found here. I loved brewing on the system and all the concepts were proved. However, I didn't have the money to get it fully setup and running with automation and the whole-9. So I sold it to a member from HBT... dun dun dun...

Meanwhile, I designed a smaller scale system for a friend. He has called his brewery the Simple Brewery. It is a design based on Brutus 20 (Lonnie Mac) and the Countertop 20 (Jkarp) with a few changes. I call this design the Twent-E2 (pronounced twenty-two) because it is a two vessel system that is fully electric and two-tier.

Twent-E2_V04_Brew_mode_I.png


Here is how the Twent-E2 works:
Twent-E2.gif


The Simple Brewery is almost complete. You can see the build and progress here.
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Now that you have some history, here is the present build idea.

This design is called the 2P-Twent-E. It is a single-tier, two vessel system with two pumps, all electric, and runs on 120 VAC (20amp). The beauty of both 2P-Twent-E and Twent-E2 (like the countertop 20) is that they can be run anywhere that has 20 amp power (any kitchen or garage generally).

Here are some concept drawings:

Here you can see the MLT on the left and the boil kettle to the right. Both the MLT and the BK have pumps directly connected to their outlets. All fluid flow will be pumped. A RIMS heat exchanger tube is positioned on the output of the MLT and a HERMS heat exchanger coil is mounted in the BK lid. Both vessels have returns.
Twent-E_concept_001.png


This view gives you a peek into the kettles. The MLT has a full false bottom and a return that will have a loc-line hose (not shown). You can also see the electric heating element (2000W HD 120VAC).
Twent-E_concept_002.png


This is a view from the back and shows the return and pick up in the BK. It is setup to whirlpool while chilling.
Twent-E_concept_003.png


A better view of the connections in the MLT.
Twent-E_concept_004.png


And to give you some scale, I am 5'9". The stand will be a stainless topped equipment stand, 32" by 60" top and 25" tall.
Twent-E_concept_005.png


The kegs are rubber coated for added insulation and because they look awesome. The control box looks like a toolbox because it is.

and here is how the 2P-Twent-E will function on brew day:

Twent-E.gif


and here is the wiring diagram for the box:
Control_Box_Wiring_BBK.bmp


For those code minkeys following the Simple Brewery thread, I changed all of your suggestions. I bought a flanged recessed male outlet ($17.00 thank you very much), bought covers for all the terminal blocks, and am using insulated grounds. I have also made solder grounds to all sections of the box and there are no pumps inside anymore.

I hope that makes sense. I will save a bunch of posts after this first one for pics updates and whatnot.
 
The following pictures show the construction of the control toolbox.

I started by laying out the holes for the outlets on the back of the box. I used
blue painter's tape and a permanent marker to make my marks, then I center
punched them.
CIMG3997.JPG


Next drill pilot holes with a metal drill bit. The top and bottom holes you see
are for the mounting screws.
CIMG4000.JPG


Then, you can remove the tape and drill the holes with a hole saw. You will
have to size the bits for the outlets you are using.
CIMG4017.JPG


...................................

Moving onto the front of the panel, I laid out the switches and PID in the
same way.
CIMG4019.JPG


Again, pilot drill then drill the final size. I used a step bit to finish these
holes. Here are the switches mounted.
CIMG4077.JPG


To cut the hole for the PID, I used a Dremel rotary tool with a metal cutting wheel. Take your time to make straight accurate lines. Then clean up the edge and install the PID. The PID I am using just clicks in from the front and a gasket seals the joint.

CIMG4082.JPG


CIMG4084.JPG


CIMG4085.JPG


The fan is mounted in the back corner to provide a nice forced air flow for cooling all the components. I am trying out the fan with no holes in the box to start with. If I need more cooling, I can cut some vents later.

<pic>
 
Here I will go through the internal wiring according to the wiring diagram from post #1.

It all starts with some heavy duty double sided tape. This is how I will mount
the internal components to the bottom of the box. Clean and effective.
CIMG4018.JPG


Here I am assembling the power distribution blocks. They include 4-terminal
blocks, 4-position jumpers, straight blade-style QD's, label bvases, and covers.
CIMG3956.JPG


I used super glue to assemble the bases and the covers to the terminal blocks.
CIMG3973.JPG


This is a fully assembled block. You can see the jumper bent down so the QD's are accessible.
CIMG3966.JPG


Fully covered.... sexy.
CIMG3959.JPG


To mount the SSR to the heat sink, squeeze the white silicon goo onto the
bottom of the SSR. Then press it onto the heat sink and position. Screw
the SSR down then clean excess silicon goo away.
CIMG3969.JPG


Then cut the double sided tape to size and adhere to the bottoms of your components. Now they are all ready to go!

............................................

Here are some wiring shots. Basically, all you need to do is follow the above
wiring diagram and connect all the components. Try to be orderly and make
nice tight turns and keep the wires grouped. This is still messier than it will
be because I am not done and the wires in the main box are not tied down.
So far I have the hot leads wired to the fuse terminals, power in completed,
mash pump completed, and boil kettle pump completed.

This is a shot of the outlets and the dirsto blocks.
CIMG4079.JPG


Neutral and ground.
CIMG4080.JPG


Mash pump switch on left, boil kettle switch on right.
CIMG4078.JPG


Pretty outlets. I will have labels made for these in the future.
CIMG4076.JPG
 
The box is complete!

From left to right: Mash pump - Boil Kettle Pump - Element - RTD sensor - PID
CIMG4086.JPG


Here is a back side shot of the PID/sensor/switch. The wiring is accoarding to the wiring diagram. The sensor wires are soldered in place. Do not use an connectors for wiring the sensor to the PID. Just clamp the sensor wires directly with the PID clamps. The big white blob is a splice connection that leads to the nuetral plane for the switch LEDs. Looking back, the tape looks bad, the connections looked clean. I used plastic insulated slice connectors to match the 12AWG. Whoop, next time...
CIMG4104.JPG


I grounded the box by scratching away paint from portions of the paint in the box.
CIMG4103.JPG



I then tinned the exposed area with solder.
CIMG4108.JPG


After tinning, I positioned my ground wires ad soldered them in place.
CIMG4109.JPG


The second ground runs to the lid. I was told that a hinge is not acceptable ground contact, and since the lid is what you are touching most, I think it is a good idea to directly tie it to the ground plane.
CIMG4110.JPG


Everything is done except the fan! That is super easy to add, but I ran out of cash...
CIMG4106.JPG


CIMG4107.JPG


I also printed out some labels for my terminal blocks. The numbers correspond to the positions on the wiring diagram. This should make reference easy, should I ever need to change or fix something.
CIMG4120.JPG


CIMG4123.JPG
 
SENSOR!

Here is how I put together my temp probe. I purchased an RTD from Auber instruments, some PET wrap, and the RTD panel connector from Auber.

CIMG4111.JPG


Tape and shrink wrap the PET to the sensor.
CIMG4112.JPG


Then solder the sensor wires to the connector. Be sure you put the collar on the wire before soldering the ends in place... I did that the first time...

I soldered the clear wire to pin 1, and the reds to pins 2 and 3. It is important to be consistent between the connector and the panel mount. 1 is always clear, 2 and 3 are always red. Then the sensor wil work properly.
CIMG4114.JPG


..................................................................

POWER!

These are the cords I built for power in and element power. 12AWG stranded, protected with PET weave, heat shrunk ends, and 20 amp plugs.
CIMG4116.JPG


CIMG4117.JPG


sexy....

...................................................................

PUMPS!
 
I suppose you are getting to this, but can you explain why it has both a RIMS and a HERMS?

Also, to my untrained electrician's eyes, wouldn't you need like...3 or 4 outlets on separate breakers to run this?
 
I suppose you are getting to this, but can you explain why it has both a RIMS and a HERMS?

Yes, I suppose my explanation was lame. I just didn't want the first post to be a book...

Anyway, I like to brew using a lot of different mash schedules. Step mashes, infusion mashes, decoctions, etc. Basically I like flexibility. I will likely use the HERMS for any mash with a single temperature rest. The RIMS will be used for multi-temp or ramp mashes. And I can use none if I want to as well. Basically, I can do whatever I want and test whatever I want. That is just how I like it.

Also, to my untrained electrician's eyes, wouldn't you need like...3 or 4 outlets on separate breakers to run this?

There are 5 outlets. I have updated the first post to include the wiring diagram. I suppose that is important... duh. I can't win em all.

The box takes in 20 amps of 120VAC. The element is a 2000W High Density element and at full power would draw 17 amps. The rest draws almost nothing. We have tested Jeremy's Simple Brewery and it doesn't even draw over 15 amps in practice with everything running.
 
It is a 4 gallon finished volume rig.

That is most you can squeak out with 120VAC. If you want full 5g or 10g, you will need a 220 VAC supply. I don't have that easily available in my house, and I really like the idea of brewing anywhere at anyone's house with no special needs.
 
Yes, I suppose my explanation was lame. I just didn't want the first post to be a book...

Anyway, I like to brew using a lot of different mash schedules. Step mashes, infusion mashes, decoctions, etc. Basically I like flexibility. I will likely use the HERMS for any mash with a single temperature rest. The RIMS will be used for multi-temp or ramp mashes. And I can use none if I want to as well. Basically, I can do whatever I want and test whatever I want. That is just how I like it.



There are 5 outlets. I have updated the first post to include the wiring diagram. I suppose that is important... duh. I can't win em all.

The box takes in 20 amps of 120VAC. The element is a 2000W High Density element and at full power would draw 17 amps. The rest draws almost nothing. We have tested Jeremy's Simple Brewery and it doesn't even draw over 15 amps in practice with everything running.

OK, this makes more sense. Basically, you are never using the HERMS and the RIMS at the same time, so not so much current draw. I thought you were going to use both at once to somehow get more heat into the system (e.g. to do 5 gallon+ batches).
 
OK, this makes more sense. Basically, you are never using the HERMS and the RIMS at the same time, so not so much current draw. I thought you were going to use both at once to somehow get more heat into the system (e.g. to do 5 gallon+ batches).

Not in the plan, but maybe it would work???? We'll see in about a month.
 
Great to hear from an inspiration!!! :mug:

For those unaware jkarp is the mastermind of 120VAC for e-brewing.

..........................................................
The PID uses an RTD that I will be able to move around. Each vessel will have a thermowell in
the sightglass base. Each sight glass will be assembled like this:

phpThumb.php


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with one of these
TWellFixed6Unshielded-675.jpg

threaded into the connection instead of the plug.

I will also have a thermowell for monitoring liquid temp through the heat exchangers:
http://www.brewershardware.com/1.5-Tri-Clover-Inline-Stainless-Steel-Thermowell.html


The thermowells as well as a ton of other stuff are all coming from HBT member Derrin ala


So I will be able to check temps wherever I want. Or at least that is the idea. I will also have
two analog thermos sticking through the lids down into the mash/boil.
 
I like you man. Subscribed :)

I really like the idea of being able to brew anywhere...being able to use 120VAC is FREAKING HUGE. I guess I'm still clinging to "bigger is better", though. Even though I'm designing a single vessel rig, I still think it's going to be big...like 2' W x2.5'D x3.5'H (able to telescope to ~5' high). After using the SIMPLE brewery, and starting this build I have a few questions about your basic design:

How long does it take you to get up to a boil/heat strike water?
-Did your efficiency suffer from continuous recirculation like some say?
-How was the beer; how big of an OG can you go?
-Did 4 gallons last a while, or did you find that you had to brew more often? I find 5 gallons lasts me a few weeks...sometimes I do 10 gallon batches if it's a tried and true recipe.
-How easy was your cleanup, since you have to dump the MLT and then add icewater back in?

Really looking forward to seeing this turn out. I almost have to stop buying parts because I keep changing/improving my design!
 
We haven't brewed with the Simple Brewery yet. So I can't give you hard answers. I can answer a few though...

1. How long does it take you to get up to a boil/heat strike water?
2. Did your efficiency suffer from continuous recirculation like some say?
3. How was the beer; how big of an OG can you go?
4. Did 4 gallons last a while, or did you find that you had to brew more often? I find 5 gallons lasts me a few weeks...sometimes I do 10 gallon batches if it's a tried and true recipe.
5. How easy was your cleanup, since you have to dump the MLT and then add icewater back in?

1. It goes quick. I don't have the numbers in front of me, but I think it took around 15-20 minutes to get 5g from sparge temps to boil. It may have been quicker than that though.

2. I have never seen constant circulation to hurt efficiency??? I have seen over 80% with a constant circ. I like to aim for efficiency below 80% and I really like 75%. I don't think that will be a problem with this system.

3. No results yet.

4. I am making this rig so I CAN brew more often. I used to brew all 10g batches. Yes the beer will go much faster, but when it is easier to brew and faster I think everyone wins.

5. Again, I haven't used it yet, but cleanup should be a breeze. Shop vac the grains out, dump into a bag, rinse out the MLT, fill with ice, top with water, and Bob's yer uncle.
 
I like this idea.

I have been thinking about jkarp's tabletop system for a long time except that even though I often brew 2.5 gallon and 3 gallon batches when I am playing with recipes, I would prefer to be able to brew closer to 4 at a minimum for the house staples, and didn't really think it was feasible with my crappy 120V apartment setup, so I didn't pursue it much.

However, I think looking at your design, and with a well-insulated BK, maybe it is doable.
 
This system and jkarp's will brew 4g finished beer with no problems.

Confirmed. 5 gal is the max my kettle can boil at a roll I'm happy with. I do 3.5 gal batches (4.5 pre-boil) because they fit best into the Vittles Vaults I ferment in. 4 gal leaves very little headroom for krausen.

To achieve .5 gal / hr boil-off (absolute minimum I'd consider) requires 4K BTU or 1.2KW. This is JUST the energy to vaporize the water - not including kettle heat losses, etc. On my system, I consistently get .75 gal/hr boil-off which means 1.8KW of the element goes towards the boil and the balance of 200W is system heat loss.
 
I suppose if you wanted/needed 5 gal just brew a 1/5 bigger beer and top off in the fermenter. Whatever fits your needs/room/smiles.
Looking forward to your progress.
 
subscribed:rockin: That simple brewery is sweet and simple. I enjoyed watching it come together. I can't wait to see the progress on yours.

Glad you decided to start new thread for it.
 
I'm in awe, you have an amazing design, and the Simple Brewery is sweeet! Because of you I have decided in the end to go all electric, with a HERMS system, I hope you think that replication is a form of flattery.

PROST to you sir! and Subscribed!
 
Nice!

I'm probably going to copy your design exactly. So please post a parts list when you're finished!

Okay, not exactly. I'll probably cut the RIMS and one pump.

My only question is about the lid on the boil kettle. With the chiller on there, it looks like you will have to keep the lid on. How are you going to get around sanitizing your chiller coil and keeping the lid off?

B
 
I'm in awe, you have an amazing design, and the Simple Brewery is sweeet! Because of you I have decided in the end to go all electric, with a HERMS system, I hope you think that replication is a form of flattery.

PROST to you sir! and Subscribed!

Definitely flattered! I hope tos ee a bunch of similar systems some day!!!

Nice!

I'm probably going to copy your design exactly. So please post a parts list when you're finished!

Okay, not exactly. I'll probably cut the RIMS and one pump.

My only question is about the lid on the boil kettle. With the chiller on there, it looks like you will have to keep the lid on. How are you going to get around sanitizing your chiller coil and keeping the lid off?

B

You should take a look at the Simple Brewery. It is exactly what you are describing. 2-tier HERMS with one pump.

The chiller will be sanitized with starsan in a spray bottle. This system chills so quickly with the ice water in the MLT that DMS is not an issue. With the Simple Brewery, we were below 140º in about 2-3 minutes.
 
That's some pretty clean wiring, nothing like my rat's nest on my rims toolbox. I may have to rewire mine one day but for now it works. Glad to see you are using a socket for the power input.
 
20 amp. 120 VAC.

McMaster #8036K2


In the grand scheme it isn't much, but compared to $4 for a regular outlet it is a lot. Those small upgrades add up quick as I am sure you know.
 
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