Happy HolidaySs Giveaway - Last Sponsor Giveaway of the Year!

Come Enter the BrewDeals/FastFerment Giveaway!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > 240V Heating Element - 1 or 2 SSRs
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 01-28-2010, 10:51 PM   #1
Douglefish
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 243
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default 240V Heating Element - 1 or 2 SSRs

When using a 240 V Heating Element, should you use 1 or 2 SSRs?

If you only use 1, will the element still be hot?

__________________
Douglefish is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-28-2010, 11:03 PM   #2
The Pol
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 11,755
Liked 73 Times on 63 Posts
Likes Given: 10

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by aarondrich View Post
When using a 240 V Heating Element, should you use 1 or 2 SSRs?

If you only use 1, will the element still be hot?
It will be HOT, but not hot...

It wont give off heat, but there is still a live wire there.
__________________
The Pol is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-28-2010, 11:06 PM   #3
Douglefish
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 243
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

So what is the advantage of using 2 SSRs?

__________________
Douglefish is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-28-2010, 11:17 PM   #4
The Pol
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 11,755
Liked 73 Times on 63 Posts
Likes Given: 10

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by aarondrich View Post
So what is the advantage of using 2 SSRs?
If you use (2) then when the element is commanded off, NONE of the legs are hot. If you use (1) then one leg is always hot... you may not want the element leads hot when it is "off"
__________________
The Pol is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-28-2010, 11:42 PM   #5
Brewmoor
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Brewmoor's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,094
Liked 13 Times on 13 Posts
Likes Given: 13

Default

You can use a standard relay as well for the second leg if you want. Because you will not be cycling the second leg on/off very often. One of the reasons to use and SSR is lifespan of the relay. SSR has no moving parts. So a PID or another device can constantly turn the power on and off without much worry. With a mechanical relay, if you cycled it that often it would probably fail on you.

If you go with a mechanical relay make sure the relay is rated for the amperage you are using.

Also with a mechanical relay or SSR make sure the switch you are using is passing on the correct voltage for the relay. Mechanical relays have coils that are rated for the voltage you have at your switch. So make sure you get the right one.

__________________

"What the mind can conceive and believe, the mind can achieve."

My build thread. Compact Single Tier!

Brewmoor is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-29-2010, 01:55 AM   #6
CodeRage
Death by Magumba!
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
CodeRage's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Melbourne, Fl
Posts: 2,254
Liked 33 Times on 18 Posts
Likes Given: 5

Default

You can do it with one, but it is best to use two.

Say you turn the element off, and pour in some more water for what ever reason. Some water runs down the back of the pot and hits the 1 live wire. The water conducts to the pot which conducts to the liquid inside of it, travels up the pouring liquid and into the metal pot your holding.

You wonder how much you trust that GFCI and ask yourself one question: do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?

Kidding about the punk, couldn't help myself. But you can see how in one instant you'll wish you had splurged for the second SSR.

__________________
Brutus 20e build | Electrical Primer for Brewers | Auber SYL-2362A2 PID Install & Config
So as I am walking out the door this morning I think to my self:
"self, going to work on Monday is like knowing you're going to get kicked in the nuts. You just don't know when or by who"

Reason: brainfart
CodeRage is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-29-2010, 01:59 AM   #7
The Pol
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 11,755
Liked 73 Times on 63 Posts
Likes Given: 10

Default

I went with (2) SSRs per element on my new system for that reason. I dont want (4) heating elements with live wires running to them when the system is "off". I want it off... off.

(10) SSRs total... 8 for elements and 2 for pumps

At $16 for an SSR+Heatsink... it was cheap to justify

__________________
The Pol is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-29-2010, 03:59 AM   #8
stevehaun
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: hudson, wi
Posts: 573
Liked 14 Times on 14 Posts
Likes Given: 25

Default

This is why I have a DPST switch for each of my elements. I don't use my PID to turn my elements on and off. I simply use the PID to control temp. Hence, I only have one SSR per element. If I used the PID to turn my elements on and off, I would have two SSRs per element.

__________________
stevehaun is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-29-2010, 04:11 AM   #9
CodeRage
Death by Magumba!
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
CodeRage's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Melbourne, Fl
Posts: 2,254
Liked 33 Times on 18 Posts
Likes Given: 5

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehaun View Post
This is why I have a DPST switch for each of my elements. I don't use my PID to turn my elements on and off. I simply use the PID to control temp. Hence, I only have one SSR per element. If I used the PID to turn my elements on and off, I would have two SSRs per element.
With an HOA switch and 2 SSRs you have the best of both worlds.
__________________
Brutus 20e build | Electrical Primer for Brewers | Auber SYL-2362A2 PID Install & Config
So as I am walking out the door this morning I think to my self:
"self, going to work on Monday is like knowing you're going to get kicked in the nuts. You just don't know when or by who"
CodeRage is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-29-2010, 04:30 AM   #10
Bobby_M
Vendor and Brewer
HBT_SPONSOR.png
Vendor Ads 
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
 
Bobby_M's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Whitehouse Station, NJ
Posts: 22,191
Liked 1042 Times on 696 Posts
Likes Given: 28

Default

It's already been said but I would think you want a DPDT mechanical kill switch for the "real" off off.

__________________
BrewHardware.com has a new website. Please check it out and let me know what you think!
New Stainless Steel Heating Elements are IN!
Did you know we are now a full service homebrew shop selling malt, hops, yeast (Wyeast), etc?
Bobby_M is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
 



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
electric heating element Brewpastor Brew Stands 9 01-01-2012 10:20 PM
Will this do what I need for a heating element control? RedIrocZ-28 Brew Stands 9 12-28-2009 05:33 PM
Heating element Wade E Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks 27 12-21-2009 03:43 AM
Need advice- Using 240V water heater element for 120V? MTEXX Brew Stands 7 10-29-2009 04:20 PM
No + / - on heating element RockfordWhite Other 11 10-04-2008 05:33 PM



Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS