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Old 11-14-2008, 11:13 PM   #21
nathan
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hey I just found today that you can get fittings at lowe's. They are compression fittings on one end and male threaded or female threaded npt on the other end. You could pop the compression end on your copper tube and connect a QD to the threaded end o fthe coupling and then pop on and off your silicon tubing from the hlt no sweat.
That looks like some good work! With a little mod once you have an hlt, you could drop in an immersion chiller and put compression-to-threaded connectors on it and run a herms system fairly easily (next project! they never end!).



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Old 11-14-2008, 11:15 PM   #22
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btw, a light spray is okay provided you are watching levels and the spray is hitting a layer of water on top of the mash



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Old 11-14-2008, 11:30 PM   #23
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Nah I'm not ready to spring the $130 for a pump just yet...Haven't even got my system figured out with gravity yet!

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Old 08-27-2009, 02:10 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by harley03 View Post
This is how I did mine and is sort of similar to yours. I soldered mine so it would come apart in 5 sections and is easy to clean as well. The middle manifold is connected by a short length of 3/8 hose to the barb inside the cooler.
I cut the slots in the manifold every 1/2 and about a 1/3 of the way through the pipe with my angle grinder which I installed a metal cutoff wheel it worked great and only took about 45 minutes to complete.
I have not tested this new mash tun yet but it should work great! I thought about doing a test run with water just to make sure it drains effectively



I picked up the 52 qt xtreme and coincidentally, I just made a manifold with exactly the same arrangement! Hopefully that's working out for you. (though I didn't solder, so I put the T's & elbow's right against the walls).

I cut the ball valve handle in half so that it would fit into that recess on the outside.

I have a compression fitting on the inside to slide the copper into (but I won't use the inner compression part so I can easily slide it apart).

On the inside of the inner wall, I have a brass washer that's the same diameter (3 cm) as the rubber insert the came with the cooler. When I tighten it all together, the walls are pinching together, but I can still rotate the whole assembly, so I'm a little concerned about the seal. Did you use anything else? Pump some silicon in between the walls?

This guy makes a point about cutting the outer wall away so you can tighten everything down on the inner wall (though the 'xtreme' inner wall seems a little thin):
A Homebrew Log: Cooler Mash Tun and Weldless Copper Drain Manifold

Adding to my concern:
BT - A "Cooler" Way to Ease into All-Grain Brewing [sidebar]
"Important: Be sure to place the sealing washer against the inside wall to prevent wort from becoming trapped between the inner and outer walls of the cooler (trapped wort becomes a potential breeding ground for contaminants). "

A good diagram here:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/no-leak-mlt-bulkhead-design-87197/






I'm actually wondering about cutting a small piece out of the bottom of the cooler; removing the insulation from around (and below) the hole; sliding a piece up wood up between the two walls (with a hole drilled in the wood to pass the brass pipe through). I figure I could shape the wood to fit, it's a bit of an insulator, and I could really tighten down on the two walls for a good seal. Also, the bottom would be open to air, so moisture wouldn't be trapped between the walls.

Basically, I'm thinking the no-leak MLT bulkhead design like above, but instead of cutting the outter wall for the PVC pipe insert (#6 in figure), I'd slide the wood spacer up from the bottom, keeping the outer wall intact for more support.

Thoughts?
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Old 08-28-2009, 01:48 AM   #25
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Continuing on in the more appropriate thread...
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/no-leak-mlt-bulkhead-design-87197/index2.html#post1511717

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Old 08-28-2009, 02:13 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek View Post
I picked up the 52 qt xtreme and coincidentally, I just made a manifold with exactly the same arrangement! Hopefully that's working out for you. (though I didn't solder, so I put the T's & elbow's right against the walls).

I cut the ball valve handle in half so that it would fit into that recess on the outside.

I have a compression fitting on the inside to slide the copper into (but I won't use the inner compression part so I can easily slide it apart).

On the inside of the inner wall, I have a brass washer that's the same diameter (3 cm) as the rubber insert the came with the cooler. When I tighten it all together, the walls are pinching together, but I can still rotate the whole assembly, so I'm a little concerned about the seal. Did you use anything else? Pump some silicon in between the walls?

This guy makes a point about cutting the outer wall away so you can tighten everything down on the inner wall (though the 'xtreme' inner wall seems a little thin):
A Homebrew Log: Cooler Mash Tun and Weldless Copper Drain Manifold

Adding to my concern:
BT - A "Cooler" Way to Ease into All-Grain Brewing [sidebar]
"Important: Be sure to place the sealing washer against the inside wall to prevent wort from becoming trapped between the inner and outer walls of the cooler (trapped wort becomes a potential breeding ground for contaminants). "

A good diagram here:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/no-leak-mlt-bulkhead-design-87197/






I'm actually wondering about cutting a small piece out of the bottom of the cooler; removing the insulation from around (and below) the hole; sliding a piece up wood up between the two walls (with a hole drilled in the wood to pass the brass pipe through). I figure I could shape the wood to fit, it's a bit of an insulator, and I could really tighten down on the two walls for a good seal. Also, the bottom would be open to air, so moisture wouldn't be trapped between the walls.

Basically, I'm thinking the no-leak MLT bulkhead design like above, but instead of cutting the outter wall for the PVC pipe insert (#6 in figure), I'd slide the wood spacer up from the bottom, keeping the outer wall intact for more support.

Thoughts?
Derek,
I did not use anything in between the walls of the cooler. All I used was the orginal gasket that was on the old spigot. It has not leaked yet and I have used it many times with no issues.
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Old 09-05-2009, 03:46 PM   #27
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Harley03,

What efficiency are you getting? Since I've got the same tun & manifold layout, I'm very curious.

I was hoping for 80%.

I got 77% (after boil) on my first brew, but I mashed a little thin (1.75qt/lb) & didn't compensate with the sparge volume (I didn't realize the grain bed was quite so low). I collected a little more run-off, but the final runnings still had a gravity of 1.018.

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Old 09-10-2009, 10:01 PM   #28
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has anyone drilled holes in their manifold? i started drilling today with no problems except that i have a lot of metal shavings on the inside and out. the outside shavings are no big deal, but how do i get it out of the inside of the tube?

i hope this isn't hijacking the thread. i didn't want to start a new one and ask a redundant question.l

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Old 09-10-2009, 11:35 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TerapinChef View Post
I got all of this good stuff at HD for $21. I had no idea how to solder copper pipe, had never really even worked with it. I bought the 1/2" copper soldering kit, 4 90's, 5 T's and a 10' piece of 1/2" copper Type M tubing. Roughed out a plan and started cutting, just finished soldering the ends together. I left the long tubes unsoldered until I get them slotted, and I'm thinking of soldering one end of each in a staggered fashion so that I can take it apart to clean it. Anyways, here it is.


Advice needed on the following...

-What's the best way to clean this when I'm done soldering? Oxyclean okay?

-How does everyone attach this to their bulkhead? I'm going through a rectangular cooler so it's of course weldless

-What's the best way to slot this thing? I was thinking of using a drill press to drill tiny holes instead of cutting the slots, but not sure if I'll have access to one or not.

Also, I have about 32" of tubing left over. Here's what I was thinking...
Leftover Tubing Sparge Arm

A short piece comes through the cooler lid into the inside, to a T. Two short pieces come off the T towards the long sides of the cooler. Each ends in a T.
From there, I run two 8" pieces of tubing in each direction. These pieces would be plugged at the end and in some way opened up to allow water to come through (hopefully drilled, if that ends up working out above I'll just do it all at once) So it would basically look like a big "H".

As a reference, my system is a three tier stand gravity fed, running a 54Q Igloo Mash tun with a Keggle and IC. Let me know what you all think.
Cleaning copper- The best thing I have found for my copper manifold is a soak in star san for an hour or so makes it shine like a new penny.
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:36 PM   #30
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This thread was hijacked long ago...I drilled my sparge manifold. I took the handle off one of the brushes you get with your soldering kit and shoved it through each tube a few times to get rid of them. But probably didn't need to, on the sparge side it wasn't going to hurt anything...



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