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Old 11-13-2008, 12:24 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by TerapinChef View Post
So you just connect your manifold to your ball valve with a short piece of tubing?

Yes that is exactly what I do just use a 1 1/2 - 2 inch short piece of 3/8 silicone tubing. Like I said before I have not tested this mash tun yet but should work just fine.
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Old 11-13-2008, 01:42 PM   #12
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mine is even simpler. I took the plastic valve off of one of the bucket fermenters I have. I drilled the hole and mounted it, then I use a piece of cheap vinyl tubing. It's about an inch long. One end is crammed into the inside of the bucket spigot inside the cooler, and the other end is on the outside of the copper T. It's soft enough to just smoosh in place and my manifold is ready to rock and roll.

You don't need water-tight fittings or anything like that, just a way to make the least path of resistance be through the grain, into the manifold, and out the valve into your grant or kettle.

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Old 11-13-2008, 03:02 PM   #13
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I got the piece I needed to go 1/2" copper tubing-Female Threaded 3/8" to connect to my bulkhead. For the sake of saving space, I think I'm going to put a 90* fitting off of this to go right down to the manifold connection T. Any reason this won't work as a kind of pickup tube? I don't want to leave behind any more wort than I have to...

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Old 11-13-2008, 07:20 PM   #14
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just slap it together and give it a whirl.

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Old 11-14-2008, 12:02 AM   #15
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So tried the dremel tool with multiple kinds of cutoff wheels, including the one that took the top right off my keg, and wasn't happy with any of them. So I'm liking the hacksaw the most. Clean, straight lines, and not really too time consuming. Now drilling the holes in my sparge manifold? That's going to drive me crazy.

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Old 11-14-2008, 03:12 PM   #16
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use a scratch awl and a mallet to tap small dents where you want the holes, then use a sharp drill bit and WD-40 as a lubricant and you should be able to get the drill started easily enough.

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Old 11-14-2008, 05:35 PM   #17
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I was planning on using olive oil (foodsafe) and a dremel specific drill bit. Anyone have a suggestion on size? I'm thinking as small as possible...

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Old 11-14-2008, 10:37 PM   #18
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you do need a starting spot, though, or you will skid across the rounded pipe until you make your own scratch that the bit can bite in. Then you will have a hole, but with scratchy lines around it.
Don't worry about using wd-40, just clean up after with a good cleaning in barkeeper's friend, then a regular wash and viola. If the olive oil doesn't smoke up and disappear in the dremmel heat, it might work, though.

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Old 11-14-2008, 11:02 PM   #19
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Boy did I have a busy day....
Decided against the dremel after cutting one tube worth of slots, I feel like they were too wide. So I did the other three with the hacksaw. That was fun. Also finished the sparge manifold, drilled with 1/16" drill bit in the dremel after using a punch to set the spot. I may make the holes a bit larger, especially close to the input, as I feel I may be getting too much spray and not enough drip. And I need to figure something for the top of the cooler where the HLT input will connect. Also mounted a new weldless connection in my extra pot to use as a HLT. Here's the pics...





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Old 11-14-2008, 11:03 PM   #20
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Grand total for overall cooler revamp= about $30 with some miscelaneous fittings and such. This included the kit that I bought to solder the copper pipe. (about 7 dollars)
Obviously, I had the ball valve setup and cooler already...and if I had been better at measuring and cutting my copper tubing I could have made the input line to the sparge manifold about 8" longer. (which I may still do) This would have allowed me to raise or lower my sparge arm to suit the grain bill of the beer I would be making, getting it as close to the top of the waterline as possible. Now I just need to figure this whole system out....and mount another burner on my stand. I think I might be allowed to focus on making beer now...
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Last edited by TerapinChef; 11-14-2008 at 11:07 PM.
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